Reinterpretation Of Changshan Kledingstuk by Tong Tong

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Kledingstuk by Tong Tong is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2024 A' Design Award in Brons in Mode-, Kleding- en Kledingstukontwerp Competition Category.

BronsMode· 2024

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Kledingstuk

by Tong Tong

A' Design Award in Brons Winner in Mode Category

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Verified Award Winner
Verify Award Status for #159036

View at A' Design Award Press Release Award Badge

Colors

The Design

About Reinterpretation Of Changshan Kledingstuk

Die ontwerp eer die tydlose elegansie van die Changshan, 'n gerespekteerde tradisionele Chinese manskledingstuk. Deur die verfynde silhoet op te roep, versmelt hierdie herinterpretasie erfenis naatloos met innovasie. Vertikale nate en diskrete geïntegreerde sakke verhoog funksionaliteit terwyl ingetoënheid behou word. Vervaardig uit hoë-draai woltwyl, bied dit strukturele ondersteuning en 'n kreukvry voorkoms. Deur noukeurige kleremaking-metodes word die uitdaging om die neklyn te herverbeeld oorkom terwyl beide gladde kurwes en strukturele integriteit verseker word.

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award in Brons

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Kledingstuk is 'n wenner van die A' Design Award in Brons, 'n hoogs prestigieuse erkenning wat toegeken word aan uitstaande ontwerpe wat gekenmerk word deur kreatiwiteit, vindingrykheid en skerpsinnigheid. Wenners in Brons is ruimskoots vaardige en opvallend kreatiewe artefakte wat die groot ervaring, verbeelding en vindingrykheid van hul ontwerpers bevestig. Daar word verwag dat Reinterpretation Of Changshan Kledingstuk 'n hoog aangeskrewe, bewonderde en gekoesterde voorwerp is wat merkwaardig professioneel en innoverend is. Hierdie ontwerp wat die A' Design Award in Brons gewen het, inkorporeer die beste praktyke in kuns, wetenskap, ontwerp en tegnologie en is uitstekend vanweë sy aandag aan detail. Reinterpretation Of Changshan Kledingstuk bevredig behoeftes pragtig, raak aan begeertes, bekoor gevoelens en spreek die nuuskierigheid aan.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
Dimensions & Packaging: Full-body Length
Tags: Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
Production Technology: A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
Design Challenge: The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
Research: Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
Inspiration: This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
Project Duration: This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
Operation Flow: The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
Team Members: Tong Tong
Image Credits: Image #1-5 Photographer：Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023