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Reinterpretation Of Changshan قطعة ملبسية by Tong Tong

Reinterpretation Of Changshan قطعة ملبسية by Tong Tong is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2024 جائزة A' Design Award البرونزية in تصميم الأزياء والملابس Competition Category.


برونزالأزياء· 2024

Reinterpretation Of Changshan قطعة ملبسية

by Tong Tong

جائزة A' Design Award البرونزية Winner in الأزياء Category

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The Design

About Reinterpretation Of Changshan قطعة ملبسية

يكرّم التصميم الأناقة الخالدة لزي التشانغشان، الزي الرجالي الصيني التقليدي الموقّر. وبإحياء صورته الظلية الراقية، يمزج هذا التفسير العصري بسلاسة بين التراث والابتكار. تُعزز الدرزات العمودية والجيوب المدمجة بدقة من الوظيفية مع الحفاظ على البساطة. مصنوع من نسيج التويل الصوفي عالي اللف، يوفر دعماً هيكلياً ومظهراً خالياً من التجاعيد. من خلال أساليب الخياطة المتقنة، يتم التغلب على تحدي إعادة تصور خط الرقبة مع ضمان المنحنيات الناعمة والسلامة الهيكلية.

The Recognition

About the جائزة A' Design Award البرونزية

Reinterpretation Of Changshan قطعة ملبسية هو فائز بجائزة A' Design Award البرونزية، وهي تقدير رفيع المكانة يُمنح للتصاميم المتميزة التي تتسم بالإبداع والبراعة وحدة الذكاء. والفائزون بالبرونزية مصنوعات بارعة بوفرة ومبدعة بصورة لافتة، تؤكد الخبرة الواسعة والخيال وسعة الحيلة لدى مصمميها. ويُتوقع أن يكون Reinterpretation Of Changshan قطعة ملبسية قطعة عالية التقدير ومحل إعجاب وحب، شديدة الاحترافية والابتكار. وهذا التصميم الفائز بجائزة A' Design Award البرونزية يتبنى أفضل الممارسات في الفن والعلم والتصميم والتكنولوجيا، ويتميز بعنايته بالتفاصيل. ويلبّي Reinterpretation Of Changshan قطعة ملبسية الاحتياجات على أفضل وجه، ويلامس الرغبات، ويأسر المشاعر، ويستثير الفضول.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties
While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
Dimensions & Packaging
Full-body Length
Tags
Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
Production Technology
A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
Design Challenge
The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
Research
Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
Inspiration
This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
Project Duration
This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
Operation Flow
The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
Team Members
Tong Tong
Image Credits
Image #1-5 Photographer:Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023

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