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String in the Tail Бранзалет by Mandy Morris

String in the Tail Бранзалет by Mandy Morris is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2022 Срэбная прэмія A' Design Award in Дызайн ювелірных вырабаў Competition Category.


СрэбраЮвелірныя вырабы· 2022

String in the Tail Бранзалет

by Mandy Morris

Client: Werk

Срэбная прэмія A' Design Award Winner in Ювелірныя вырабы Category

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The Design

About String in the Tail Бранзалет

«String in the Tail» — гэта жорсткі бранзалет, які таксама можа выконваць функцыю гнуткага бранзалета. Дызайн спалучае вобразныя і абстрактныя элементы, натхнёныя рухам рыбкі-пеўня (сіямскай баявой рыбкі). Трохрадковая нізка жамчужын з залатой пацеркай утварае рэгуляваную зашчапку, таму даўжыню можна змяняць пад запясце. Выраб цалкам зроблены ўручную з паўторна выкарыстанага 18-каратнага белага і жоўтага золата. Натуральныя жоўтыя дыяменты аздоблены на фоне белых дыяментаў, а жамчужыны мякка прылягаюць да скуры. Ручная разьба фарміруе плаўныя дэталі плаўнікоў.

The Recognition

About the Срэбная прэмія A' Design Award

String in the Tail Бранзалет — пераможца Срэбнай прэміі A' Design Award, надзвычай прэстыжнага прызнання, якое прысуджаецца дызайнам вышэйшага класа, цудоўным і ўражальным. Срэбныя пераможцы — гэта надзвычай бліскучыя і вельмі творчыя працы, якія ілюструюць выдатную кампетэнтнасць, талент і праніклівасць сваіх дызайнераў. Чакаецца, што String in the Tail Бранзалет — гэта цудоўная, паказальная праца, надзвычай прафесійная і глыбока інавацыйная. Гэты дызайн, што атрымаў Срэбную прэмію A' Design Award, — вельмі значнае, вартае захаплення вынаходніцтва, якое прыносіць карысць і пашырае межы мастацтва, навукі, дызайну і тэхналогій. String in the Tail Бранзалет — гэта твор, якому шмат хто зайздросціць, што абуджае жаданні, дорыць пазітыўныя пачуцці і запальвае здзіўленне і захапленне.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties
A unique design combining figurative and abstract elements .The piece looks like a bangle but is also part bracelet with a 3 strand string of pearls as an adjustable catch.This piece is also completely hand made from reused gold with natural yellow and white diamonds and pearls.
Dimensions & Packaging
65 x 33mm for the cuff section using 33 grams of 18ct white and 18ct yellow yellow gold.
Diamond content -1.56ct of intense/ fancy natural yellow round brilliant cut diamonds
and 1 x 0.30ct natural yellow round brilliant cut diamond
and 1.59ct of F/vs white round brilliant cut diamonds Total diamond weight-3.15ct
with 22x pearls and gold bead string feature catch.
Production Technology
Made from repurposed 18ct white gold using traditional jewellery making skill with new lazer welding techniques in order to mix the carved fi details with the clean straight diamond set edges. Enhanced metal carving skills in order to create the fluidity of the fin shapes that were not too thin .Difficulties occurred in selecting a perfect 156 matching natural yellow diamonds out of 450 diamonds. The catch took some consideration so the bangle can be adjusted.
Research
Research spent time studying the movement and decoration of siamese fighting fish and many hours sketching the layout of the design by hand drawing at scale. Lots of time spent perfecting the hand carving skill for the fin detail and silver prototype for the catch.
Inspiration
The fluid movement and eye catching flamboyance of the Siamese fighting fish , so hypnotising they are like dancers and wanted to create a piece that was flamboyant and captured the movement and flow, making the metal seem light , almost molten which is then turned into wristwear that is aesthetically stunning but also playful with the moveable string of pearl which is also the catch.I try to combine reality with abstract design.
Project Duration
Designed January 2021 completed-april 2021in York uk .
exhibited at Goldsmith hall ,London in May 2021 and winner of 4 craftmanship and design awards including The Boodles award for fine jewellery.
Operation Flow
bangle has a an adjustable string of pearls which creates length to fit on the wrist and adjusted to required length.The wearer gets the pearls soft touch next to the skin and the playful element of adjusting the strands.
Team Members
Designer mandy morris
Thomas carl johnson maker and diamond setter.

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