Reinterpretation Of Changshan Pakéang naébbu Tong Tong iyanaritu pammènangngé iya temmaka riéloinna ri 2024 A' Design Award Tambaga ri Katégori Kompétisi Desain Mode, Busana, dan Garmen.
TambagaMode· 2024
Reinterpretation Of Changshan Pakéang
ᨑᨗ Tong Tong
Pammènangngé A' Design Award Tambaga ri Katégori Mode
Pammènangngé Anugérah Naparessoi
Paressoi Status Anugérah untu #159036ᨉᨙᨔᨕᨗᨊᨙ
ᨄᨙᨑᨗᨖᨒ Reinterpretation Of Changshan Pakéang
Disain ié namasombayangi elegansi nataruntungiwi Changshan, pakéang tradisional makkunraé Cina napuji-puji. Namalari siluét-na namaréka, interpretasi ié namalao-laoiwi warisang sibawa inovasi. Jahitang mattégé' sibawa kantong natanéng secara halus namakkulléi fungsina narekko natettong kesédérhanaan. Namagau' sékko' wool twill puntirrang mattinggi, naséddii dukungang struktural sibawa penampakang tanpa lintu'. Lalang métode tailoring namadetail, tantangangé namarupaiwi gala naparéwa nataséiwi narekko natettongiwi kelengkunganga namalancara' sibawa integritas struktural.
ᨄᨂᨑᨁᨙ
ᨄᨙᨑᨗᨖᨒ A' Design Award Tambaga
Reinterpretation Of Changshan Pakéang iyanaritu pakoro A' Design Award Tambaga, pakalebbi iya malompo tongeng iya ripabbere ri desain luar biasa iya riissengngi nasaba kreativitas, kecerdikan sibawa ketajaman. Pakoro Tambaga iyanaritu artefak iya terampil sibawa mappabbura kreatif iya mappabbentuk pengalaman iya maega, imajinasi sibawa kecerdikan tau mabbuat. Reinterpretation Of Changshan Pakéang ripakkirangngi mancaji objek iya ripakalebbi, ripuji sibawa rirennu, profesional sibawa inovatif. Desain pakoro A' Design Award Tambaga iyae mappasilaong praktik tepat ri seni, sains, desain sibawa teknologi sibawa makessing nasaba perhatiannna ri detail. Reinterpretation Of Changshan Pakéang mappabbura kebutuhan makessing, mappakkela keinginan, mappabbentuk perasaan sibawa mappabbura rasa penasaran.
ᨑᨗ ᨆᨘᨋᨗᨊᨙ ᨉᨙᨔᨕᨗ
ᨀᨗ ᨄᨙᨑᨙ
ᨀᨑᨙᨉᨗ, ᨕᨂᨚᨈ ᨈᨗᨆ ᨔᨗᨅᨓ ᨑᨗᨏᨗ ᨈᨙᨀᨊᨗ ᨊᨄᨓᨙᨑᨙ ᨑᨗ ᨉᨙᨔᨕᨗᨊᨑᨙ.
- Sipa Khas
- While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
- Ukurang & Kemasang
- Full-body Length
- Tag
- Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
- Téknologi Produksi
- A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
- Tantangeng Désain
- The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
- Panélitiang
- Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
- Inspirasi
- This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
- Wettu Proyék
- This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
- Alur Opérasi
- The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
- Anggota Tim
- Tong Tong
- Krédit Gambar
- Image #1-5 Photographer:Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023
Sponsori
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ᨒᨕᨙᨅᨗ ᨍᨒᨍᨒᨗ
ᨉᨙᨔᨕᨗ ᨔᨗᨄᨉᨙ
ᨍᨒᨍᨒᨗ ᨒᨕᨙᨅᨗ ᨉᨙᨔᨕᨗ ᨆᨊ ᨄᨂᨑᨁ ᨄᨉ ᨀᨈᨙᨁᨚᨑᨗ ᨔᨗᨄᨉᨙ, ᨊᨄᨗᨒᨙ ᨄᨉ ᨀᨘᨕᨒᨗᨈᨔ.