Random Puff La Peça De Brodat 4D by Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin

Random Puff La Peça De Brodat 4D by Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2023 A' Design Award de Ferro in Disseny Tèxtil, Teixit, Textures, Patrons i Tela Competition Category.

FerroTèxtil· 2023

Random Puff La Peça De Brodat 4D

by Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin

Client: MIT Media Lab

A' Design Award de Ferro Winner in Tèxtil Category

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Verified Award Winner

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Colors

The Design

About Random Puff La Peça De Brodat 4D

RandomPuff és un nou puffer que utilitza bufons de brodat 4D per aïllar la roba. Els puffs es fabriquen inicialment plans i apareixen a les cúpules quan s'exposen a la calor. Les bufades activades atrapen l'aire entre l'entorn exterior i l'usuari per mantenir el cos calent. El desenvolupament implica la creació d'una biblioteca d'interaccions de material de brodat 4D entre "fibres actives" i "teixits estàtics". Els dissenyadors i desenvolupadors poden utilitzar eines de disseny computacional per treballar de manera col·laborativa amb els usuaris finals, creant dissenys nous tèxtils i softgood que siguin de moda d'alta tecnologia, personalitzats i sostenibles.

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award de Ferro

Random Puff La Peça De Brodat 4D és un guanyador del guardó A' Design Award de Ferro, un reconeixement prestigiós concedit a bons dissenys que compleixen els requisits professionals i industrials esperats de creacions ben dissenyades. Els guanyadors de Ferro demostren una gran habilitat, una alta especialització, una comprensió experta i la capacitat creativa dels seus creadors. Es preveu que Random Puff La Peça De Brodat 4D sigui una creació molt apreciada, admirada i estimada que és pràctica i innovadora. Aquest disseny guanyador del guardó A' Design Award de Ferro integra les millors pràctiques del sector i té característiques tècniques competents lligades al coneixement i al talent. Random Puff La Peça De Brodat 4D és respectat per la seva minuciositat i està pensat per oferir millores en la qualitat de vida que ajuden a fer del món un lloc millor.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: Random Puff is a garment application leveraging the puffy transformation that traps air within the dome pocket to keep the body warm. The double curvature geometry becomes easily fabricated, and personalizable styling is available through the computational design process, which opens up a new design/manufacturing space for a puffy garment.
Dimensions & Packaging: 500mm x 30mm x 700mm. However, since it's a garment, it can be fold into the size of 300mm x 20mm x 200mm.
Tags: 4D embroidery
Production Technology: Heat-shrink thread. Neoprene. Machine embroidery. Processing visualizer.
Design Challenge: First, the force balance between active thread and static fabric is a fundamental challenge. There is too much fabric out there with labeled information that does not necessarily lead to our purpose. Second, tension issues happen when new threads or fabric are introduced to the machine. It takes a while to calibrate, and sometimes break the machine if the thread is too thick/thin, or the fabric is too thick/slippery/crispy. Third, to achieve the maximized bi-layer bending, we want to vary the force on both sides so that the inner side does not constraint the outer side.
Research: Research background:
This research demonstrates how machine embroidery with heat-shrinking fibers enables existing fabrics to be augmented with morphing fibers.

Methods/Tools:
Similar to sewing, embroidery is a technique of interlacing upper and bottom threads with the substrate in between, but digitally. For the hardware, a desktop, hobbyist embroidery machine can easily execute wanted samples. For the software, I mainly explored PEmbroidery and Inkstitch for different purposes. PEmbroider is an open-source library housed in Processing that offers a procedural coding environment to generate detailed embroidered files at point and line levels. Inkstitch is also an open-source plug-in embedded in Inkscape that provides a graphical user interface, which is more friendly for primary users.

Results/Insight:
I started off the material characterization by testing different substrates with the same embroidery parameters. Out of 10+ fabrics, fabrics that are lightweight with high springness can hold the morphed structure better. A series of embroidery parameters were also tested systematically with stroke width, density, peak-to-peak distance, stitch spacing, and threading material. The fiber actuator can be tuned from crease(low res) to bend(high res) in a linear pattern. The fiber can be arranged in curves, origami creases, or arbitrary shapes to form more complex pop-up geometry.
Inspiration: Working at a NIKE shoe industry, I realized the challenge of transformation between 3D to 2D or vice versa. There's still no clear solution for the tedious, laborious, wasteful process from prototyping to production.

Working as a R&D at a carbon fiber company, I got to witness the power of machine embroidery, where it can digitally place fibers. This way, it can reinforce the artifact in any direction, replace the lamination thus reducing the material waste, and digitalize the process from start to end.
Project Duration: The project started in September 2021 and finished in December 2021 in Cambridge, MA, United States.
Operation Flow: First, a closed-curve set of circles, squares, or other arbitrary shapes is generated within the area of a 2D clothing. Second, the design file will be translated to an embroidery file via Processing, a visual output, and procedural coding environment. Third, upload the file to a desktop hobbyist embroidery machine and start embroidery. Lastly, the garment comes out flat from the machine and users can customize where to activate the puffs by heating the embroidery pattern with a steamer or iron.
Team Members: Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin
Skylar Tibbits
Jack Forman
Hiroshi Ishii
Image Credits: All IP, copyright, images, video credits belong to Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin.