Bronzu Moda · 2024
Reinterpretation Of Changshan Vestitu
by Tong Tong
- A' Design Award di Bronzu 2024 in Moda
- Estimated Number of Design Views: 92,381
- Verification code D1C9C470D8 · Verify this award
Colors
About Reinterpretation Of Changshan Vestitu
U disignu onora l'eleganza senza tempu di u Changshan, un vestitu tradiziunale cinese per l'omi riveritu. Evucendu a so silhouette raffinata, sta reinterpretazione mischia armoniosamente u patrimoniu cù l'innuvazione. Cucituri verticali è sacchette discretamente integrate accrescenu a funziunalità mantenendu a mudestia. Realizatu in sarja di lana à alta torsione, offre un sustegnu strutturale è un aspettu senza grinze. Attraversu metudi di sartoria meticulosi, a sfida di reimaginà u collu hè superata assicurendu inseme curve liscie è integrità strutturale.
About the A' Design Award di Bronzu
Reinterpretation Of Changshan Vestitu hè un vincitore di u premiu A' Design Award di Bronzu, una ricunniscenza assai prestigiosa attribuita à i disegni eccellenti chì si distinguenu per a creatività, l'ingegnu è l'acutezza. I vincitori di Bronzu sò artefatti largamente abili è sorprendentemente creativi chì autenticanu a vasta sperienza, l'imaginazione è l'ingegnosità di i so disegnatori. Si aspetta chì Reinterpretation Of Changshan Vestitu sia un oggettu assai apprezzatu, ammiratu è caru, rimarchevulemente prufessiunale è innuvatore. Stu disegnu vincitore di u premiu A' Design Award di Bronzu incorpora e migliori pratiche di l'arte, di a scienza, di u disegnu è di a tecnulugia è hè eccellente per l'attinzione à i detaglii. Reinterpretation Of Changshan Vestitu suddisfa splendidamente i bisogni, tocca i disideri, incanta i sentimenti è chjama a curiusità.
Press Kit
- Unique Properties
- While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
- Dimensions & Packaging
- Full-body Length
- Tags
- Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
- Production Technology
- A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
- Design Challenge
- The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
- Research
- Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
- Inspiration
- This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
- Project Duration
- This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
- Operation Flow
- The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
- Image Credits
- Image #1-5 Photographer：Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023
