Shapes of Light Dekorativní šátek by Xiaoxi Zhang

Shapes of Light Dekorativní šátek by Xiaoxi Zhang is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2022 Železná cena A' Design Award in Doplňky Competition Category.

ŽelezoDoplňky· 2022

Shapes of Light Dekorativní šátek

by Xiaoxi Zhang

Client: Johnstons of Elgin

Železná cena A' Design Award Winner in Doplňky Category

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Colors

The Design

About Shapes of Light Dekorativní šátek

Shapes of Light je série tkaných kašmírových šátků. Série zahrnuje tři vzory inspirované přírodními a městskými scénami: východ slunce nad mořem, světla budov ve městě v noci a měkké měsíční světlo večer. Ilustrační koncepty byly převedeny do geometrických a minimalistických tkaných vzorů, aby vyhovovaly požadavkům tkaní. Každý šátek je barven a tkán ve skotské manufaktuře a jeho povrch je zjemněn tradičním ručním zpracováním pomocí bodláků čechradla pro měkký konečný vzhled. Cílem je proměnit každodenní doplněk v uměleckou nositelnou skvost.

The Recognition

About the Železná cena A' Design Award

Shapes of Light Dekorativní šátek je vítězem Železné ceny A' Design Award, prestižního uznání udělovaného dobrým designům, které splňují profesní a průmyslové požadavky očekávané od dobře navržených výtvorů. Železní vítězové prokazují velké dovednosti, vysokou specializaci, odborné porozumění a tvůrčí kapacitu svých tvůrců. Očekává se, že Shapes of Light Dekorativní šátek bude vysoce ceněným, obdivovaným a oblíbeným výtvorem, který je praktický a inovativní. Tento design, který získal Železnou cenu A' Design Award, integruje osvědčené postupy odvětví a má kompetentní technické vlastnosti spojené s know-how a talentem. Shapes of Light Dekorativní šátek je vážen pro svou důkladnost a je navržen tak, aby poskytoval zlepšení kvality života, která pomáhají činit svět lepším místem.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: "Shapes of Light" is Nancy Zhang's special collaboration design series with the Scottish cashmere expert brand Johnstons of Elgins.

For the first time, Nancy expressed her illustration arts with textile technology. The theme of this collaboration "The shape of light" is an extension of her personal illustration project "Light seeker". She made 3 designs to express diverse forms of light: The sunrise on the sea, building lights in the city at night and the soft moonlight in the evening. Light shapes how the environment looks to us, yet the environment we constructed reshapes light in turn at the same time. Does light shape our appearance, or do we construct what light looks like?

It is not only a fashion design collaboration, but also an artistic endeavour.
Dimensions & Packaging: Sunrise and Moonlight: Length 190mm x Width 35mm
Building light: Length 180mm x Width 25cm
Tags: Light, textile, geometric, cashmere, woven, gradient, artistic, scarf, abstract
Production Technology: Woven cashmere scarf series. The whole transforming process was like purification of the visual expressions. From dyeing to blending, carding to spinning, warping to weaving, knitting to teaselling and cutting to folding-it all happens in Johnstons of Elgins.

2 Ombres(Sunrise and Moonlight)：
Manufactured in Johsntons of Elgin, the craft design department and dye house worked together to create a unique blend of colours for the Ombre Oversized Classic Scarves. With the advanced jacquard machine, we can weave over 10 colours in one scarf and each colour is dyed in Elgin mill. From fiber to final products, on average of 33 craftspeople contribute to the making of each of our cashmere scarves. The signature ripple finish is achieved by using traditional hand-worked teasels to gently raise the surface or 'nap' of the completed accessory, achieving a beautifully soft handle.

Building light：
Manufactured in Johsntons of Elgin, the craft design department and dye house worked together to create a unique blend of colours for the Ombre Oversized Classic Scarves. On average of 33 craftspeople contribute to the making of each of our cashmere scarves. The mill uses use dobby loom to weave this particular cashmere scarf, and each colour is dyed in Elgin mill. The signature ripple finish is achieved by using traditional hand-worked teasels to gently raise the surface or 'nap' of the completed accessory, achieving a beautifully soft handle.
Design Challenge: As an illustrator and visual artist, the biggest challenge of this textile design collaboration was transforming the illustrations into woven textile patterns without losing the original conceptual expressions.

Considering the limitations of woven technology, we had to minimize the genomic shapes for the designs as much as possible. However, it turned out to be quite an enjoyable and meaningful challenge for us both. The whole transforming process was like purification of my visual expressions, which is the charm of the textile design.
Research: In my opinion, this design series is not just a commercial collaboration but my attempt to seek a new form of project creation, transforming my personal project into a tangible painting. As the oldest form of humanistic art, textiles have always been very mature in the transformation of technology and contents. Product design is a way for us to touch and use literary and artistic creations in modern society. I call this collaboration series "The Shape of Light” as an extension of the theme of my personal painting project "Light Seekers". And all my research from my personal experiences in nature went into this: during traveling the seaside in the Izu Peninsula, a building lights view in Shanghai and the clear summer moonlight in Berlin. These physic phenomenon were turned into graphical ideas in my mind while I was looking at them. In other words, I would have painted them anyway with or without this design collaboration. It was a pleasure to work with the Johnstons of Elgin team, JOE is a cashmere textile expert in the industry. During the cooperation, I was able to entrust the technical realisation and manufacturing part to professionals. That was the ideal teamwork experience.
Inspiration: Design 1 Sunrise-The inspiration of this one comes from the natural phenomenon- the sunrise on the sea, visualised the graphics with stripes and gradient colours.

Design 2 Building Light-The inspiration comes from the city night view-warm building lights from people's perspective outside, design with plaid graphic.

Design 3 Moonlight- The inspiration was also from he natural phenomenon-soft moonlight in summer evening without clouds,
design with gradient colours.
Project Duration: This project designs started in February 2021 in Berlin, Germany and the products finished in September 2021 in Elgin, Scotland. Currently the goods are available in Shanghai, China.
Operation Flow: Scarves are one of the most common accessories to keep us warm during the winter type. Yet these kinds of daily, simple accessories could be "tangible", "wearable" art pieces as well. Based on "Movable Gallery on body" this key idea, the abstract drawings about different shapes of light were created, however, afterwards the graphics were slightly modified regarding to the woven technology requirements.Actually the final result turned out more minimal than before and it also gave people more space for imagining.Special thanks to the reliable collaboration team, it took more than 30 manufacturing steps and 33 craftspeople's involved in total to achieve the final results and everything went smoothly.
Patents: Johnstons of Elgin (2021) Jenny Urquhart
Team Members: Concept Artist/Creative Director:Xiaoxi Zhang
Craft Designer: Laura Garner
Craft Designer: Aisling Watt
Image Credits: Design&Illustration by Xiaoxi (Nancy) Zhang
Photography by Teasels(Shanghai) Trading Company Limited