Sarah Prsten by Anna-Reetta Vaananen is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2022 Bronzová cena A' Design Award in Šperky Competition Category.

BronzŠperky· 2022

Sarah Prsten

by Anna-Reetta Vaananen

Client: Anna's Darling

Bronzová cena A' Design Award Winner in Šperky Category

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Verified Award Winner
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Colors

The Design

About Sarah Prsten

Sarah je zlatý prsten inspirovaný odrůdou pivoňky a herečkou, po níž byl pojmenován, Sarah Bernhardtovou. Prsten působí zároveň pevně i křehce, podobně jako samotný květ. Jeho vzhled se mění v závislosti na úhlu pohledu. Sarah je vyroben z recyklovaného žlutého zlata ryzosti 585 technikou lití na ztracený vosk a klenotnických plátů. Vrstvy květu byly vytvořeny kapáním roztaveného vosku na železný kulovitý nástroj, poté odlity ze zlata, vyleštěny a spojeny zlatým drátem s použitím jen několika pájených spojů. Design spojuje nositelný šperk s uměním.

The Recognition

About the Bronzová cena A' Design Award

Sarah Prsten je vítězem Bronzové ceny A' Design Award, vysoce prestižního uznání udělovaného vynikajícím designům, které se vyznačují kreativitou, vynalézavostí a bystrostí. Bronzoví vítězové jsou hojně zručné a nápadně kreativní artefakty, které dosvědčují rozsáhlé zkušenosti, představivost a vynalézavost svých designérů. Očekává se, že Sarah Prsten bude vysoce ceněným, obdivovaným a milovaným předmětem, pozoruhodně profesionálním a inovativním. Tento design, který získal Bronzovou cenu A' Design Award, zahrnuje osvědčené postupy v umění, vědě, designu a technologiích a vyniká pozorností k detailu. Sarah Prsten nádherně uspokojuje potřeby, dotýká se tužeb, okouzluje city a oslovuje zvědavost.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: Sarah ring is made from gold with lost wax casting and goldsmith plate techniques. The ring is massive and fragile at the same time. Sarah jewelry has been inspired by peony and the very first superstar Sarah Bernhard. This design is unique combination of good usability and art jewelry at the same time. From each angle it is different and gives an impression of hand made artefact and unique piece of art.
Dimensions & Packaging: Material 585 yellow gold
Size of the flower 21 mm x 14 mm
Width of the ring 4 mm
Size of the ring varies.
Weight of the ring 19 g in ring size 17.
Tags: ring, goldring, flowerjewelry, peony, sarahbernhard, lostwaxcasting
Production Technology: Sarah ring is made with lost wax casting and goldsmith plate techniques from recycled 585 yellow gold. Original flower pieces were made by melting wax and forming the flower pieces drop by drop on top of an iron sphere. The ring part is made from gold plate by hand. After casting the wax made flower pieces it was all joined together with supporting and visual adding gold wire with only three solders.
Design Challenge: In this Sarah design process were used scketching and model making techniques before moving in to experimental form giving. The biggest challenge was to create something new that does not only imitate nature and flower but expresses the desired character of nature, human being and a time era. These all were to adapt in to wearable and beautiful jewelry.
Research: For the Sarah project background was to gather visual material about the peony flower construction and appearance. The flower character was as important as the actress Sarah Bernhard who had given her name to this one particular peony. To accomplish this final ring form there were movies to watch, Muchas posters to see and peony blossoms to tear down. The biggest insight was to create more than nature had given in to a usable and pretentious ring.
Inspiration: Sarah design project started from the love towards gardens beauties sarah bernhard peonies that are multilayered lush and fragile. Peony got its name from the worlds first superstar Sarah Bernhard. This actress and courtesan has given her face to a nature inspired Art Nouveau period by artist Alphonse Muchas paintbrush. This one particular peony cultivar has also been named after her perhaps because of their look alike in looks and in essence. Sarah ring embodies them both woman and the flower.
Project Duration: Project started in July 2020 and finished in June 2021, and was exhibited in June 2021 in Sonkajarvi Finland.
Operation Flow: Challenge was to make original and interesting design. Sarah form giving started with molding wax sheets and adding melted wax on a sphere tool. Wax models were lost wax casted in to gold and then best forms for the flower part were chosen. Casted gold layers were grinded polishes and soldered together with one gold wire. Parts were elevated from each other with slugs to lift the flower layers and make it lively and light. The design is made so there would be as little solders as possible.
Patents: All right belong to Anna-Reetta Väänänen, Anna's Darling Ky, Sonkajärvi, Finland
Image Credits: Image #1: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Image #2: Photographer Elina Manninen, Model Johanna Nordblad, 2021
Image #3: Photographer Elina Manninen, Model Johanna Nordblad, 2021
Image #4: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Image #5: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Video Credits: Valtteri Kantanen, 2021