Random Puff 4D Broderi Beklædningsgenstand af Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin

Random Puff 4D Broderi Beklædningsgenstand af Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin er en højt anset vinder af den meget prestigefyldte 2023 A' Design Award i Jern i konkurrencekategorien Tekstil, Stof, Teksturer, Mønstre og Tøjdesign.

JernTekstil· 2023

Random Puff 4D Broderi Beklædningsgenstand

af Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin

Klient: MIT Media Lab

Vinder af A' Design Award i Jern i kategorien Tekstil

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Farver

Designet

Om Random Puff 4D Broderi Beklædningsgenstand

RandomPuff er en ny puffer, der bruger 4D-broderipuster til tøjisolering. Pust fremstilles oprindeligt flade og popper op i kupler, når de udsættes for varme. De aktiverede pust fanger luft mellem det ydre miljø og bæreren for at holde kroppen varm. Udviklingen involverer oprettelsen af et bibliotek af 4D-broderimateriale-interaktioner mellem 'aktive fibre' og 'statiske stoffer'. Designere og udviklere kan bruge beregningsværktøjer til at arbejde sammen med slutbrugere og skabe nye tekstil- og softgood-designs, der er højteknologisk mode, personlig og bæredygtig.

Anerkendelsen

Om A' Design Award i Jern

Random Puff 4D Broderi Beklædningsgenstand er vinder af A' Design Award i Jern, en prestigefyldt anerkendelse, der tildeles gode designs, som opfylder de professionelle og industrielle krav, man forventer af veldesignede skabelser. Jernvinderne viser stor dygtighed, høj specialisering, ekspertforståelse og kreativ kapacitet hos deres skabere. Random Puff 4D Broderi Beklædningsgenstand forventes at være en højt estimeret, beundret og kær skabelse, der er praktisk og innovativ. Dette design, der har vundet A' Design Award i Jern, integrerer branchens bedste praksis og har kompetente tekniske egenskaber knyttet til knowhow og talent. Random Puff 4D Broderi Beklædningsgenstand respekteres for sin grundighed og er designet til at levere forbedringer af livskvaliteten, der er med til at gøre verden til et bedre sted.

Bag Designet

Pressemappe

Credits, teammedlemmer og tekniske detaljer leveret af designeren.

Unikke Egenskaber: Random Puff is a garment application leveraging the puffy transformation that traps air within the dome pocket to keep the body warm. The double curvature geometry becomes easily fabricated, and personalizable styling is available through the computational design process, which opens up a new design/manufacturing space for a puffy garment.
Dimensioner & Emballage: 500mm x 30mm x 700mm. However, since it's a garment, it can be fold into the size of 300mm x 20mm x 200mm.
Tags: 4D embroidery
Produktionsteknologi: Heat-shrink thread. Neoprene. Machine embroidery. Processing visualizer.
Designudfordring: First, the force balance between active thread and static fabric is a fundamental challenge. There is too much fabric out there with labeled information that does not necessarily lead to our purpose. Second, tension issues happen when new threads or fabric are introduced to the machine. It takes a while to calibrate, and sometimes break the machine if the thread is too thick/thin, or the fabric is too thick/slippery/crispy. Third, to achieve the maximized bi-layer bending, we want to vary the force on both sides so that the inner side does not constraint the outer side.
Forskning: Research background:
This research demonstrates how machine embroidery with heat-shrinking fibers enables existing fabrics to be augmented with morphing fibers.

Methods/Tools:
Similar to sewing, embroidery is a technique of interlacing upper and bottom threads with the substrate in between, but digitally. For the hardware, a desktop, hobbyist embroidery machine can easily execute wanted samples. For the software, I mainly explored PEmbroidery and Inkstitch for different purposes. PEmbroider is an open-source library housed in Processing that offers a procedural coding environment to generate detailed embroidered files at point and line levels. Inkstitch is also an open-source plug-in embedded in Inkscape that provides a graphical user interface, which is more friendly for primary users.

Results/Insight:
I started off the material characterization by testing different substrates with the same embroidery parameters. Out of 10+ fabrics, fabrics that are lightweight with high springness can hold the morphed structure better. A series of embroidery parameters were also tested systematically with stroke width, density, peak-to-peak distance, stitch spacing, and threading material. The fiber actuator can be tuned from crease(low res) to bend(high res) in a linear pattern. The fiber can be arranged in curves, origami creases, or arbitrary shapes to form more complex pop-up geometry.
Inspiration: Working at a NIKE shoe industry, I realized the challenge of transformation between 3D to 2D or vice versa. There's still no clear solution for the tedious, laborious, wasteful process from prototyping to production.

Working as a R&D at a carbon fiber company, I got to witness the power of machine embroidery, where it can digitally place fibers. This way, it can reinforce the artifact in any direction, replace the lamination thus reducing the material waste, and digitalize the process from start to end.
Projektvarighed: The project started in September 2021 and finished in December 2021 in Cambridge, MA, United States.
Driftsflow: First, a closed-curve set of circles, squares, or other arbitrary shapes is generated within the area of a 2D clothing. Second, the design file will be translated to an embroidery file via Processing, a visual output, and procedural coding environment. Third, upload the file to a desktop hobbyist embroidery machine and start embroidery. Lastly, the garment comes out flat from the machine and users can customize where to activate the puffs by heating the embroidery pattern with a steamer or iron.
Teammedlemmer: Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin
Skylar Tibbits
Jack Forman
Hiroshi Ishii
Billedkreditering: All IP, copyright, images, video credits belong to Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin.