Interviews with Eleonora Federici

My parents used to take me to museums and important Italian cities since I was very young. My parents have always loved Art and History, and I was lucky enough to be born and live in the country that is the epitome of it in the world. From a young age I had a passion for drawing and painting, which I abandoned for a while during my time at the classical high school, because this course of study was, and still is, the most difficult in Italy. Classical studies helped me not only to appreciate the wonderful history of my country, but also to develop a great willpower, a sense of sacrifice and tenacity.
Then I studied Art and Literature at University. My parents had founded the "Marinone" jewelry shop in 1980, and since childhood I have taken part in this world. For me, an Art and Beauty lover, it was almost natural to take up that profession. And I, who have always had a penchant for perfection, could not enter the business without the proper preparation. So I decided to become a gemologist. I studied Gemology at the “Istituto Gemmologico Italiano,” of which I am now a member. Gemstones showed me that Nature can be a huge source of inspiration. Since my first days in my family Jewelry shop I could express myself creating unique, high-end jewels for our Customers.
For the last 18 years I have been developing my skills as a goldsmith, and I have learned wax modeling from one of the most talented jewelry modelers in Italy. Finally, I decided to complete my education with an eye on the future by taking a high-level course in CAD and CAM design in jewelry at the Gemological Institute of America: the most prestigious and important gemological institute in the world.
This is my background: for me, there is no difference between the intellectual ability to have an idea and the technical and practical ability to execute it. To me, having control over the entire creative and productive process is a sign of great professionalism.
I became a designer automatically and naturally, I cannot even call it a choice or a decision. It is something that comes from within and probably has to do with what my parents have taught me since I was a child. I was definitely born to be a designer.

The process begins with inspiration, then the idea develops in my mind, and I envision the final result. I start creating the model based on that vision, sometimes sketching it on paper or digitally using a graphics tablet. Before taking the Jewelry Design & Technology course at the Gemological Institute of America, I used to shape wax models by hand. Now, I create models directly in Rhinoceros 7 or ZBrush, which also allow me to produce stunning renderings. Interestingly, I find it easier to create the model directly than to draw it; my mind acts as my canvas. It's a bit like in the TV series The Queen's Gambit, where the main character visualizes chess pieces moving on their own, guiding her to victory. Sometimes, I make adjustments to ensure that a piece of jewelry is not only beautiful but also wearable.

The most exciting phase of the process is the initial idea and the first steps I take to start building the model. I feel the challenge of achieving perfection, and that makes me enthusiastic. I feel that each jewel I create is a part of me... like a child growing up and leaving home... When I am done with my work, I feel really satisfied and eager to create the next design. When I create I feel alive, it gives my life a meaning. It's like my soul and brain need it to survive. I think that without the ability to create, I would die.

I received an education characterized by seriousness, intellectual honesty, and respect for others. The course of study I took as a young person taught me sacrifice, dedication and perfectionism. All of this combined with an innate creativity has, in my opinion, created the necessary blend of qualities to be a great designer. One of the people who influenced me the most was my mother, with whom I worked for many years and who taught me a lot. Then, of course, my cultural background and open-mindedness, which is one of my main characteristics, helped me to develop my style and skills.

I have big plans. After launching my website, www.eleonorafedericijewelry.com, where you can order my pieces or contact me for custom-made jewelry, I started showcasing my creations in places like Lugano, Switzerland, and Monte Carlo. I've always dreamed of leaving a legacy, and now it's time to make that dream a reality—I've waited long enough. I want people to remember my name even 100 years from now. Am I thinking too big? Perhaps, but no one knew who Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel was when she started her company. I have a special piece of jewelry in mind, made up of various components that can be assembled and disassembled to create multiple pieces of jewelry, and can also be combined into a wearable object that transcends traditional definitions of jewelry.

Never surrender. Learn from everyone around you, but find you own way, your style. Sooner or later someone will believe in you!

To my fellow designers, artists, and architects, I suggest adhering to a few key principles that have contributed to my success. Firstly, prioritize quality and craftsmanship in every aspect of your work. Attention to detail and dedication to excellence will set you apart. Avoid the trap of complacency by continuously seeking inspiration and pushing your creative boundaries. Embrace criticism as a tool for growth; be open to feedback and constantly strive to improve. Additionally, cultivate strong relationships within the industry; networking and collaboration can lead to valuable opportunities. Remember to stay true to your vision and values, even in the face of challenges or trends. Finally, never stop learning; stay informed about emerging technologies, materials, and design trends to remain relevant in a constantly evolving field.

Milk and coffee with some cookies as soon as I wake up, then I work all day (in my jewelry shop projecting new models). I go for a run, or do Pilates at least 4 times a week (if possible!). I like cooking in my free time (I am really fond of making pastries), which I usually do during the week-ends. When I can, I go to Tuscany where my father was born, and take long hikes up in the mountains and in the fall, we usually go together searching for mushrooms. Those moments are fundamental for relaxation and they give my brain renewed energy so I can have new ideas for my jewels.

I do not tend to follow fashion trends, preferring to stick to my own personal style and ideas. But at the same time I think that as an artist I am obviously and unintentionally influenced by everything that happens around me…

First of all a good design never goes out of fashion. That means that it will always be beautiful, wearable, useful.

That’s the easy part: I am so picky and meticulous that it’s ready when it’s perfect.

"The Hummingbird" is undoubtedly the project that has given me the greatest satisfaction. It not only perfectly embodied what I aimed to represent—symbolizing the coexistence of humans and fragile, endangered species—but it also had all the qualities I seek in a piece of jewelry. It captures the essence of my brand as "wearable art" and even won an A' Design Award!
Still, I truly love each and every one of my creations; they are all unique expressions of my vision and passion.

There are many artists in many fields that have changed the history of art, fashion, architecture, etc. that I admire: Frank Lloyd Wright, Mary Quant, Rinaldo Gavello, Marc Jacobs... and they are not the only ones.

My cultural background has a great influence on who I am today and on my designs. Classical studies, the good fortune of living in Italy, a degree in gemology, and a family-owned jewelry shop in business for 42 years have all contributed. Good design is necessary for the progress of society...there is no doubt about it.
Design is Art. And Art is progress: history has taught us that. Today's world would have no heritage without the great designers of the past, just think of Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Donatello, Brunelleschi, Van Gogh, Matisse, Rodin... and the list is endless!

My work culture and business philosophy are rooted in a deep commitment to creating timeless, meaningful pieces that transcend traditional jewelry and become "wearable art".
As I aim to leave a lasting legacy with my work, every piece I create, whether it’s a complex, multifaceted project or a ring that I carved by hand over months, must be a unique expressions of my vision and passion.

As a designer, I believe that creativity should have a positive impact beyond just aesthetics. My work often emphasizes themes like the coexistence of humans and endangered species or celebrates diverse cultures. This reflects my desire to raise awareness through my art.
Giving back to the community is important to me. I’m open to pro bono work, especially for causes that align with my values, and I strongly believe in the role of designers and artists in humanitarian efforts—our creativity can be a force for change. I am also eager to participate in design events and conferences, offering guidance and sharing my experiences, or even teaching in a design school. To me, good design is about creating something timeless and meaningful, and I hope to inspire the next generation to pursue that same passion.

Participating in design competitions and awards is essential because you will be challenged to create something new, and your skills, imagination, and technical abilities will be stretched to the limit. You feel the challenge to be the best. Needless to say, it's a great opportunity to be recognized and opens the door to a successful future. I am truly honored and proud to have been chosen as Designer of the Day.

My main focus in designing this piece was to create a new kind of bypass ring—one that is as innovative as it is elegant, as bold as it is timeless. I wanted to explore asymmetry through curves, varying heights, and subtle inclinations to challenge traditional symmetry, all while preserving a sense of balance and refined elegance. The goal was to craft a design that feels fresh and modern but remains deeply harmonious and wearable.

My future plans for this award-winning design are to bring it fully into the spotlight, making it celebrated by a wider audience. I want it to be seen, worn, and appreciated as a symbol of innovation and timeless elegance. This piece will be a cornerstone for pushing my creative boundaries further and inspiring new collections that blend boldness with grace. Simply put: it’s time to be on the scene.

The first project dates back to 2021. In 2023, I decided to take it further and develop it into something truly special. It took me around six months to complete.

As I mentioned before, the inspiration dates back to 2021. In 2023, I presented the initial design - along with my vision for how I would develop it - to one of my clients, who had an Australian pearl she wanted to match with her Australian pearl strand. She literally fell in love with it!

My true goal is to produce this piece myself in a very limited, possibly numbered series—where each creation has a unique detail that sets it apart from the others. I believe in preserving the artistic integrity and individuality of every piece. That said, I also wish for this design to be appreciated on a global scale. For that reason, I’m open to collaborating with or selling the rights to a larger company, as long as the original vision and quality are respected. It’s about finding the right balance between exclusivity and broader recognition.

I was driven by a desire to challenge the traditional bypass ring while staying true to my personal vision of elegance and balance. I wanted to create something that not only looked beautiful but also told a story of contrast, harmony, and identity. I am always fascinated by the interaction between nature and human beings, and by the eternal struggle between darkness and light, good and evil. A silent battle that shapes the soul of the world.

I always strive not to be influenced by other designs or designers, because my goal is to create truly unique pieces, something you've never seen before. Originality is essential to my creative process. That said, I deeply value constructive suggestions and remain open to learning, especially when it comes from experienced professionals or peers I admire. Inspiration can come in many forms, but I always make sure my voice stays authentic and distinct.

The target customer for this design is someone who values originality and elegance—an individual who appreciates jewelry as both an art form and a personal statement. They seek pieces that are bold yet timeless, unique but wearable, and that carry a story and meaning beyond aesthetics. This customer truly appreciates uniqueness and isn’t influenced by fast fashion or fleeting trends. They are confident, discerning, and passionate about owning jewelry that stands out while reflecting their own identity.

What sets this design apart is its bold reinterpretation of the classic bypass ring. It breaks symmetry with intention - through curves, heights, and angles - while still preserving a refined sense of balance and elegance. The contrast between materials, colors, and finishes creates a dynamic dialogue of light and shadow that evolves with every movement.

This ring is inspired by the Chinese Yin and Yang concept, which represents the two opposing forces
that shaped the universe from chaos.
It embodies the seemingly incompatible ideas of harmony and contrast, the inherent duality within every soul, with the hope that the darker side is always smaller than the good.

Starting from this inspiration, I quickly sketched the three-dimensional representation of this ancient philosophical concept that was already clear in my mind. The idea was so vivid in my mind that I immediately envisioned it in three dimensions. As both a wax modeler and a CAD designer, my process is deeply intuitive: I rarely rely on traditional sketches. Instead, I translate the concept directly from imagination to form. That is what makes my approach unique. For this project, I began modeling straight away in Rhinoceros 8, letting the design take shape organically while staying true to the original inspiration.

The most unique aspect of Yin and Yang as of everyone of my design is the powerful presence it commands when worn. It immediately draws attention: people are naturally intrigued by its elegance, originality, and bold form. My client often shares how she receives countless compliments, with many assuming the piece comes from a major luxury brand. That kind of reaction speaks to the strength of the design: it is distinctive, sophisticated, and unforgettable.

I always develop my jewels with high skilled professional in the field.

Technology played a crucial role in bringing this design to life. From the very beginning, I used Rhinoceros 8 to model the piece directly from the concept I had in mind - skipping traditional sketching and working intuitively in 3D. This allowed me to explore complex forms, asymmetry, and precise weight distribution with a high level of control.

My design is not influenced by data or analytical research in the traditional sense. I rely entirely on my vision, intuition, and my deep, personal sense of beauty. For me, creation begins with an inner image—something I feel more than I calculate. My research is emotional and artistic: I observe forms in nature, explore philosophical concepts, and let my aesthetic instincts guide me. It's a more instinctive and soulful process than a data-driven one, and that’s what makes each piece truly unique.

One of the major challenges was amplifying the movement and distorting the traditional symmetry of the two opposing parts while still maintaining a sense of balance and elegance. Contrast was central to the design, but it was equally important to highlight the pearls and ensure a dynamic movement that creates a constant interplay of light and shadow.
Preventing the ring from rotating required precise weight distribution. Technically, securing the white Australian pearl without a traditional cup was difficult, as pearls can’t endure aggressive rhodium plating. To solve this, the pearl was carefully drilled and anchored with an invisible through-screw. This delicate final step came after polishing and setting, with no room for error to avoid damaging the ring or loosening the diamonds.

In a world where meritocracy often feels lost, I wanted my work to speak for itself—without relying on connections, favors, or compromise. Submitting my design to an international competition was a way to have highly skilled professionals evaluate my work purely on its merit. I believe in the value of excellence and authenticity, and this kind of platform places my name alongside respected designers, giving my creations the visibility and recognition they deserve. It's about earning my place through vision, skill, and originality.

Every time I design and develop a new piece, it presents a completely new challenge - and with that, a new opportunity to learn. This project was no exception. Each step pushed me to refine my skills, deepen my technical knowledge, and expand my creative thinking. For me, growth is a constant part of the process, and that’s what keeps me as a person, as a designer and my work evolving.

My aim was to seamlessly translate the elegance of the Kashmir fabric into a three-dimensional version while avoiding chaos, monotony or predictability.

My future plan for this design is to establish it as a renowned choice for women seeking to express their individuality and unique attitude through jewelry.

The project started in Pavia in January 2020 and concluded in Pavia in December 2020. It was a long process as this model was born out of inspiration and
evolved during the wax carving process by my own hands.
While the concept already existed in my head,
the act of carving by hand clarified exactly what I had envisioned.

I believe that creativity should have a positive impact beyond just aesthetics. My work often emphasizes themes like the coexistence of humans and endangered species or celebrates diverse cultures, reflecting my desire to raise awareness through my art. This ring, in particular, is a tribute to one of the most prominent Eastern cultures, celebrating its rich heritage and symbolism.

No, my design is currently not being produced or used by another company. However, it is part of my collection of wearable art showcased on my website eleonorafedericijewelry.com and available at the exclusive showroom Gioilelleria Marinone in Pavia, Italy. While I am focused on producing and showcasing my work myself, I am open to the possibility of selling the design to individuals or companies who can help elevate its visibility and popularity.

My decision to design this particular type of work stemmed from a convergence of factors. First of all, as always, inspiration. Then I was also driven by a desire to explore the boundaries of wearable art, seeking to create pieces that transcend traditional jewelry concepts and embody artistic expression.

No, my work is primarily influenced by my own creative vision and style. However, as I mentioned previously, every artist is inevitably influenced, even unconsciously, by their surroundings, experiences, and the work of others.

The target customers for this design are individuals with a discerning taste, drawn to unique and exclusive pieces, akin to the distinctive nature of my jewelry. These are individuals who value possessing items that are rare and not commonly found in others' collections, who perceive high-end design as an investment for the future, and who actively support artists and artistic endeavors, echoing the role of patrons in history.

Although it falls into the "domed ring" category, I have strived to be distinctive and embody the essence of a "statement" ring. Nonetheless, despite its size, it is unusually wearable and comfortable.
Therefore, I carefully balanced positive and negative surfaces.
Complexity and simplicity had to share the same space, in a delicate balance. It is not just a ring, it is a wearable piece of art.

The name of this design is directly connected with its source of inspiration. I wanted to capture the magic and spiritual allure of India and embody the essence of a Kashmir shawl.
The dome shape alludes to our planet, which should embrace Indian culture based on the acceptance of diversity in harmony and balance - all concepts I aimed to represent in my design.

For this project, I initially crafted the wax model by hand, employing traditional tools reminiscent of those used by modelists in the past. This included files, saws, a small drill with various bits, a burin, and even some tools commonly used by dentists. Subsequently, I decided to digitize the model using CAD software, specifically Rhinoceros and ZBrush.

The most unique aspect of my design is that it functions both as a 'cocktail ring' and a 'statement ring,' while also being a piece of wearable art.

I worked independently on this design, utilizing my high level of specialized skills and expertise.

The role of technology in this design primarily involved reproducing it in CAD after I carved the original model by hand. I chose to do this because I wanted to utilize computer-aided design to create renderings and videos showcasing the design with various stone and metal color options.

As for data or analytical research influencing the design, I didn't conduct any formal research for this particular project. However, I believe that continuous immersion and dedication to one's craft inadvertently contribute to a background of ongoing research. My primary objective was to create a unique and timeless piece of jewelry that transcended fleeting fashion trends.

One of the major challenges I encountered during the design and realization of my concept was in the production of the wax model, which I handled personally. The size of the model, coupled with its numerous empty spaces and an average thickness of 1.50 mm, posed significant difficulties in handling without risking breakage.

Submitting my design to an international competition was a decision rooted in multiple motivations. Firstly, I sought broader recognition and exposure for my work, believing that participating in such a platform would provide valuable validation and visibility within the industry. Additionally, as I consider my pieces "wearable art", I aimed to showcase my creations to collectors who appreciate unique jewelry. In 2021-2022, I won the same award with the single earring “The Hummingbird,” marking the beginning of my journey to establish myself as an artist and my designs as coveted pieces in the world of wearable art.

Creating this work was a learning experience that greatly contributed to my growth as a designer and modelist. I encountered various challenges, such as delicately handling the wax model and finding the right balance between intricacy and durability. These challenges helped me improve my problem-solving skills and gain a deeper understanding of material limitations. Moreover, I learned the importance of perseverance and adaptability throughout the production process.

I wanted to create a piece of jewelry that would fit the human face and have the shape and size of a real hummingbird, without losing all the beauty of the real bird. And I wanted to achieve perfection, as I usually do.

My plan is to make it famous…either producing it by myself or having it produced by another company. I think that my Hummingbird has to spread its wings and fly… Every jewel I create is part of me…like a child who grows up and leaves home…and what do you want for your own child?

If I take into account the entire time from the beginning to the end - including the time spent refining and perfecting - I think it took me about two months.

This design was not commissioned. I followed my inspiration, my need to express myself and convey my message to the world.

My plan is to produce it myself, but I do not rule out leasing the production rights. What I want is for my name and my Hummingbird to be acknowledged. I feel the need to put my talent to use, and in a way that has to the public recognition. As I said before, my jewels are like my children, and you only want the best for them. No one wants their child to remain hidden all their life…

The urge to be able to communicate externally the art that is continually developing in my head.

Having grown up in Italy, a place full of extraordinary and unique works of art in the world, has certainly influenced my attitude.

This is a high-end jewelry piece . It is meant to be worn by people who want to stand out from the crowd and have something truly unique and different. The Hummingbird is for those who appreciate art and beauty and want to wear a piece of jewelry with which there is nothing like it on the market.

It is a simple description of a delightful animal that I had numerous encounters with during my time in California.

I used the Wacom tablet in association with the drawing App SketchBook and the CAD software Rhinoceros7.

My creativity!

I researched all the data in order to have the average measures of an actual hummingbird. Then I looked for images and photos to reproduce not only the shape, but also the colors that its plumage has in reality.

The biggest challenge was to create a jewel that could fit the human face with the shape and the size of an actual hummingbird, while mantaining all the beauty of the real bird. To achieve this result, I designed “The Hummingbird” using Rhinoceros7 3D software using a 3D mesh of a real woman face as a reference guide.

I loved this design before it was even finished. I had it clearly in mind from the beginning and I knew it would be beautiful. I am particular about fashion, but this jewel was perfect. I submitted it for the Gemological Institute of America's "Student's Choice Award" and it won. I had the feeling that this stunning little bird could have flown much higher!

Creating an organic shape on Rhinoceros7 is not easy at all. In addition to that you have to set all the stones and the prongs one by one, respecting all the distances and thicknesses. There are much easier softwares out there, but if you learn it the hard way, everything gets easier! I definitely improved my skills a lot this way.

Yes, I would like you to ask me why I became a designer, and to whom I owe this award. I want to thank my parents because they gave me all the opportunities to grow, learn and have the experiences that made me who I am today.

It is a need I have always had to create something new. To be creative (to be a designer) is to feel alive, to give meaning to your life and to be constantly stimulated. I think without the ability to create, I would die. Why did I become a designer? Because I was born a designer.

I became a designer automatically and naturally, I cannot even call it a choice.
It is something that comes from within and probably has to do with what my parents have taught me since I was a child. I was definitely born to be a designer, I don’t think it's something you can learn, let alone be forced to be!

I’m always inspired by Art and Nature.

I am far from being a legend. To be a legend, you have to create pieces that everyone dreams of, that speak for you, and that when people they see them, they think: "These are Eleonora Federici's jewels!" I think that young designers who want to become a legend must never give up, believe in themselves, work hard and be professional. And above all, do not stop dreaming.

A great designer is different from a good designer in that he/she is able to have a recognizable style that stands out and cannot be confused with anything else on the market.

In my opinion, a good design never goes out of fashion. That means it will always be beautiful, wearable and useful.

Design is Art. And Art is progress: history has taught us that. Today's world would have no heritage without the great designers of the past, just think of Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Donatello, Brunelleschi, Van Gogh, Matisse, Rodin... and the list is endless!

I would love to design high-end jewelry for one of the big fashion houses like Louis Vuitton or one of the big jewelry houses like De Grisogono. I am sure I can design fascinating collections that convey the soul of the house.

I have in mind a piece of jewelry that is made up of different parts that can be put together and taken apart to create several different pieces of jewelry, and that can also be put together to create a wearable object, but that is no longer a piece of jewelry in the strict sense.

It's hard to say... my parents taught me to be humble, but I think that the secret ingredient is simply talent. And not setting limits to your creativity and imagination.

There are many artists in many fields that have changed the history of art, fashion, architecture, etc. that I admire: Frank Lloyd Wright, Mary Quant, Rinaldo Gavello, Marc Jacobs... and they are not the only ones.

Since I love all my designs, I cannot really choose one over all the others. But "The Hummingbird" has a special meaning for me because this is where I really started to understand what my potential is, and it led me to enter and win an A'Design Award (one of the most prestigious international design awards). It's a great design because it has all the qualities that I think are fundamental to a quality piece of jewelry: the curved and elegant shapes, the color, and the fact that it's unique and inimitable.

If I were to share some insights from my journey, it'd start with this: always prioritize top-notch quality and craftsmanship. Paying attention to the details really makes a difference. And don't get too comfortable: keep pushing yourself creatively and seeking new inspiration.
Embrace criticism, it is essential for growth. Stay true to yourself, though. Trends come and go, but your unique vision and values are what set you apart. Keep learning, because the design world evolves quickly, so stay curious and keep up with the latest trends. Stay open to feedback and never stop refining your skills.

I would have definitely stayed in the field of art, I would have had a creative job for sure. For a while in high school I was going to be an architect, then I was going to be an art conservator. Who knows?

Design is the ultimate frontier of art, it is what enables people to bring forth new ideas, new objects, new concepts. Design is research, beauty, poetry, emotion, progress.

My greatest supporter was myself. And I think that's the secret of success: you have to believe in yourself. And my family, which has always been proud of me and believed in my abilities and skills.

My innate creativity, my meticulousness and a strong sense of duty.

The real obstacle for me is that it is sometimes difficult to be understood and appreciated. That is why "creativity needs courage", as Henri Matisse said.
Then it was a challenge to learn the new technologies (CAD / CAM) after working so many years with the traditional methods and tools. But with my strong will I was able to master them, and now I have a powerful, exciting tool in my hand.

The perfect containers are competitions, exhibitions and special industry fairs.

I am already working on new projects, unique, high quality jewels that will allow me to fully express my creativity while creating a unique piece for those who want to wear and show their uniqueness.

I would love to be the front woman of a famous jewelry house, like Lucia Silvestri, the Jewelry Creative Director of Bvlgari.

They expect unique pieces that best express the facets of their personality and tastes, in order to stand out from "mass-produced" products and have something personalized.

Create new styles that make people live closer to nature and raise awareness of the most important issues for a better world: Peace, preservation of endangered species, respect for nature. This seems trivial, but if the world continues to be blind to these issues, I don't know if humanity will really have a future.

I am working on some new exclusive jewelry pieces that represent my vision of the world and jewelry.

The Hummingbird is definitely the project that gave me the biggest satisfaction: not only did it embody exactly what I wanted to represent (symbolize the coexistence of humans and fragile, endangered species), but it had all the characteristics I look for in a jewel.

More openness to new designers and new talents, who can make their own contribution to the graceful fashion and jewelry companies.

I believe that the world of collaborations is one of the most interesting aspects today, allowing you to blend heritage and vision of the future, combining different DNAs to arrive at new creative ideas.

It depends on the project…sometimes few days, sometimes weeks or months.

Sometimes I start with a sketch on my IPad. Sometimes my mind is my canvas: then I try to memorize the idea and start developing it just imagining it in my head. Have you ever seen the TV show "The Queen's Gambit"? She was literally able to see the chess move themselves on the ceiling... I can see the shapes and colors flowing in my head...

It is Henri Matisse’s motto: “creativity takes courage”.

I think that art is not subject to trends, but that the creation of unique and timeless objects is the ultimate goal.

Technology is a great friend of creativity because it allows you to see objects in 3D and to modify them without wasting materials. In this sense, I am sure that this is the way to a more sustainable approach, without any waste.

I use CAD software like Rhinoceros7, sculpting software like Z-brush, sketching software like Sketchbook. I still love and use the traditional wax carving method and all the tools associated with it.

These are certainly the three variables that have the most influence in the realization of a project and that, when combined in different ways, can really make a difference.

I would like them to ask: “how did you come up with this idea?”, “Why do you feel the need to create?”

I think: "I want to buy it!!!". If I were rich, I would spend a lot of money on beautiful design products...and everyone should! It is like being a patron of a talented artist. Would we have the Cappella Sistina in Rome if the Pope at the time had not been Michelangelo Buonarroti's patron (and that is just one of thousands of examples)?

My ideal partner would be smart, skilled and talented. Probably younger than me so I can compare ideas and have new and fresh inspiration and ideas. I believe in co-design because I always listen to others: multiple points of view are always better than one. And you always, always have something to learn from everybody (that's how my mom taught me).

Understanding the needs of the customers of my family's shop is certainly a very practical starting point for new inspirations. Secondly, I love to see the jewels worn by celebrities on important red carpets like that of the Cannes or Venice film festivals or the MET Gala.
But also a person I meet on the street wearing something special can trigger a whirlwind of ideas in my head!

None. I really try to be inspired by everything around me and not imitate anyone.

Training, training, training!

Marina Abramović, Maria Callas, Gianni Agnelli, Elizabeth Taylor, Pablo Picasso

Seeing your work recognized is certainly a good feeling and gives you the strength and courage to continue along this path. It certainly can't be said that I'm famous today, but I'm working on it!

I love all bright colors, Pontremoli in Tuscany, spring, my own creation “Fire” Ring (with a rare big mouthwatering orange tourmaline). I am not really fond of just one brand: it really depends on the Creative Director.

Looking around me every day, being grateful for everything that surrounds me and having the opportunity to see through my eyes all this beauty and somehow be able to make it "mine".

I think it was: I was crazy! When we went to my grandmother's house in the country, in the middle of winter I would dive into the chicken bowl of water with all my clothes on (you can imagine how happy my mother was!). I also liked to eat soil and rose petals... My parents had to tie the dresser drawers in the house with rope to prevent me from building a ladder to throw myself down! And I loved to color with crayons... I used tons of paper and paints as a kid!

This is very difficult to predict. The world is changing very quickly, especially after the technological revolution.

I am a person in love with life and nature. In addition to my work as a jewelry designer, I love to cook and prepare something special for the people I love. I think these aspects are the ones that characterize me the most.

My family jewelry shop has been in business for 44 years, and always focused on high quality products and design. Offering every kind of service, from repairing and refurbishing old jewels to creating from scratch new ones, I gained through the years a huge experince in designing, blueprinting and manufacturing. That is why I decided to create my own brand Eleonora Federici Jewelry, that focuses on marvellous, unique designs and custom made pieces. Reliability, honesty and high professionalism are the main characteristics of my company.

Design is the ultimate frontier of art, it is what allows people to bring new ideas, objects, and concepts to life. Design is about research, beauty, poetry, emotion, and progress.
As a jewelry designer, I strive to make the world a better place by conveying subtle messages through my wearable art pieces. I create jewelry that not only serves as a form of expression but also stands the test of time, carrying with it the memories and legacy of a family for generations.

Jewels, of any kind!

One of my fist pieces was a semi-rigid yellow gold necklace with a cluster of orange, yellow and red briolette cut Sapphires. This piece was uniquely created and was the first of its kind and this style predated the similar collections of a famous Fashion House presented only 10 years later.

My favorite material is yellow and pink gold. I love both the traditional wax hand carving method and CAD softwares like Rhinoceros 8, Z-brush.

When I have an inspiration, and it happens all the time and in any place. I always try to be receptive. Basically, my mind is always open to new sources of inspiration.

Shape and movement. A piece has always to be elegant and perfect.

I feel that every jewel I am creating is part of me… like a child who grows up and leaves home…I feel the challenge of achieving perfection, and that makes me enthusiastic and eager to create the next design.

I feel that every jewel that I have ever made is like a child to me, I feel complete, excited and enthusiastic and truly accomplished.

A successful design is defined by its beauty, wearability, and timelessness.

When judging a design, the first aspect I consider is its timelessness—a good design never goes out of fashion. It remains beautiful, wearable, and functional over time. Additionally, balance and elegance are crucial, even in more extreme designs.

Create new styles that make people live more close to nature and raise awareness of the most important issues for a better world: Peace, respect for ech other, preservation of endangered species, respect for nature. This seems trivial, but if the world continues to be blind to these issues, I don't know if humanity will really have a future.

My single earring "The Hummingbird" has been showcased in several international locations. Now, it is time for my ring "Kashmir" to receive the same recognition. However, I believe the best exhibition is when one of my clients wears them!

Inspiration is all around me. My Muses are often gemstones, Nature in general and pieces of Art.

Design has no limits. That is why I don’t want to enclose myself in just one style. I am eclectic. But movement, sensuality and balance are for sure one of the main characteristics of my designs.

I live in Italy. I think that any other comment is unnecessary!

Companies should select a designer who is not only eager to create and grow but also aligned with the vision of the brand. It's equally important to give the designer as much creative freedom as possible, as placing too many constraints can stifle creativity.

The inspiration is like a lightning, then the idea starts developing in my head and I have the 3D vision of the final result. Then I start creating the model following this image, sometimes making some changes in order to obtain a jewel that has to be not just beautiful, but also wearable.

The “Pirce” chandelier by the italian brand Artemide, the pendulum clock “La Tour” by L’Epée, a statue by the artist Luca Bossaglia, a portrait of myself by the artist Stefano Bressani.

Milk and coffee with some cookies as soon as I wake up, then I work all day. I go for a run, or do Pilates at least 4 times a week (if possible!). I like cooking in my free time (I am really fond of making pastries), which I usually do during the week-ends. When I can, I go to Tuscany where my father was born, and take long hikes up in the mountains and in the fall, we usually went together searching for mushrooms. Those moments are fundamental for relaxation and they give my brain renewed energy so I can have new ideas for my jewels.

Never surrender. Sooner or later someone will believe in you!

The only negative is that sometimes it is hard to be understood and appreciated. That is why “creativity takes courage”, as H. Matisse said.

Being brave. Being yourself.Create something truly new each time: astonishing, unique, unforgettable.

Willfulness, scrupulousness, courage and having no boundaries for your imagination.

My mind is my canvas. I use the traditional bench jeweler tools, CAD software (Rhinoceros 8), sculpting software (Z-Brush). I like going directly from the ideas in my mind to the creation of the model.

I work tirelessly until I have obtained what I want.

It depends on the project…sometimes few hours, sometimes weeks or months.

How can you have so many different ideas?

Everytime I build a new jewel, from the inception throught the all production process...because every time is a journey where you live the birth of your own creation, yopu improven and learn.

I cannot disclose specific names...

Every time I undertake the process of crafting a new piece of jewelry. From its conceptualization to its completion through the production process, each occasion feels like a profound journey, where I witness the birth of my own creation, I improve and learn.

I want the world to see my jewels, so I am moving forward to get international Customers.

I like to work alone, but I also like to work with smart, skilled and talented people. I always listen to others, because multiple points of view are always better than one. And you always, always have something to learn from everybody (as my Mother taught me).

Yes, I certainly do...but I would like it to be a surprise for the next design competition!

They can contact me through my website eleonorafedericijewelry.com, or through my Instagram account eleonorafedericijewelry. They can also e-mail me at info.efjewelry@gmail.com

I am looking for the opportunity to express myself and I think I could be a great resource for Jewelry Houses who are searching for a Designer eager to create and to make a difference. Whoever is going to choose me, will not regret their choice because I am strong willing, loyal and a meticulous hard worker.

Each material was chosen not only for its aesthetic appeal but also for its symbolic resonance. I wanted every element to contribute to the story of duality and balance.The use of a white Australian pearl and a rare gray Akoya pearl was deeply intentional. What draws me to pearls is that they are organic gems created by living beings which symbolize purity, transformation, and resilience. Their formation process mirrors our own journey through challenges. The contrast in their colors light represents the dual aspects of human nature, and the idea that within light there is darkness, and vice versa. They are not simply decorative, but living metaphors of the concept. The black and white rhodium plating on the shank deepens this dialogue between opposites, providing a brilliant, mirror-like finish that reflects light beautifully creating that stunning contrast I was seeking, highlighted by colorless and grey that act as a luminous pathway, guiding the eye along the unfolding narrative of duality and balance.

Securing the pearl without a visible setting was one of the biggest technical challenges. Pearls can’t undergo rhodium plating, so the ring had to be completely finished - polished, set, and plated - before the pearl was added. I designed an invisible through-screw system: the Australian pearl was drilled from side to side and anchored from the bottom with a hidden screw. This final step was extremely delicate, as the finished ring could no longer be scratched or adjusted.

Balancing asymmetry with elegance was both the challenge and the excitement in creating the Yin and Yang ring. I wanted to do something unexpected, break away from perfect symmetry while still making the piece feel harmonious and comfortable to wear. I began by exploring the bypass style, allowing the two ends to flow past one another. This gave me the freedom to play with visual tension, but I carefully studied how each curve and element interacted.For me, true balance doesn’t mean both sides are identical: it’s about achieving harmony, even in contrast. Every material and detail, from the differing pearls to the dual rhodium finish, was placed with intention to create a unified whole. In the end, the ring is both bold and refined. It stands out, but remains timeless and wearable. That, to me, is the real magic: finding elegance in the unexpected.

Preventing rotation while maintaining elegance was a key design goal. Since the ring is asymmetric and features elements with different heights and weights, I had to carefully study its physical balance. The shank was shaped and weighted so the ring would sit naturally on the finger without twisting. At the same time, the curves and inclinations were designed to catch light from every angle, creating movement and visual rhythm with each gesture. It’s a blend of engineering and artistry, where comfort meets expression. In my designs wearability is just as important as aesthetics.

At the beginning of my career, I learned to carve wax models by hand, which taught me essential jewelry manufacturing and production techniques, as well as fundamental skills in proportion, balance, and sensitivity to form - qualities I admit were already within me. Later, I became fascinated by technology. Using powerful 3D CAD software like Rhinoceros allowed me to develop more complex and precise structures. But these tools, while transformative, are not automatic. They require experience, creative vision, and a high level of professionalism. Rhinoceros doesn’t create anything on its own, it is the designer behind it.That said, no software can replace the value of craftsmanship.The true soul of the Yin and Yang ring lies in the handwork: the invisible through-screw securing the pearl, the precise stone setting, the subtle rounding of edges, the polished finish, and the technical challenge of applying two distinct rhodium platings - just to name a few. These final steps demand both delicacy and expertise. For me, it’s in the fusion of digital innovation and meticulous hand-finishing that a jewel becomes something truly exceptional. That’s where the real magic lies.

Yin and Yang Ring is in fact a wearable symbol of complexities and contrasts in everyone's life. The two pearls, the contrasting finishes, and the flowing asymmetry all reflect the dualities within each of us: light and shadow, strength and vulnerability, harmony and tension.We all carry a dark side: those hidden, imperfect, or difficult parts of ourselves. This ring acknowledges that darkness, not to fear it, but to accept it as part of a greater whole. And of course, as the ring itself suggests, I always hope that the light - the better part of us - will emerge. It is a piece meant to accompany the wearer on their personal journey, a quiet reminder that balance, growth, and beauty come from embracing every facet of who we are.

Creating a dynamic relationship between the ring and its wearer was central to the design. Eleonora Federici jewels always give great importance to the interaction with the person who wears them. They are meant to feel like a tailored dress: perfectly fitted, deeply personal, and expressive. A jewel should speak for the wearer, but also become part of them.With the Yin and Yang Ring, I wanted the piece to move with the body, to reflect light differently with every gesture, and to feel like a natural extension of the hand. The asymmetric curves, varying heights, and shifting inclinations were all carefully studied to create a flowing visual rhythm. The result is a piece that lives with the wearer - visually dynamic, physically balanced, and emotionally resonant. It’s more than an object; it’s an evolving expression of identity.

The choice of pearls was both symbolic and intentional. I selected an Australian white pearl and a rare gray Akoya pearl to reflect the dual forces of light and shadow at the heart of the Yin and Yang philosophy. Pearls, being organic and formed through time and resilience, beautifully represent inner transformation and the quiet strength that comes from Nature.As a gemologist, I have always been drawn to unexpected, lesser-known, or underappreciated materials. So I chose a gray Akoya pearl not only for its soft, mysterious beauty that adds emotional depth and visual intrigue to the design, but also because maybe one person in a million would recognize what kind of pearl it truly is, making the ring even more special.Throughout my career, I have consistently used such materials in my work. Often, when clients have trusted me with these choices, they ended up with gems that were once undervalued and inexpensive, but have since become highly prized and sought after.I positioned the two pearls on opposite ends of the bypass to create contrast and balance. Their differences in tone, size, and placement are not only visual. They tell a story: light and darkness are not opposites in conflict, but complementary forces that define one another. These pearls are not just decorative: they are the emotional and philosophical core of the ring.

The Yin and Yang Ring pushes the boundaries of the traditional bypass ring by introducing intentional asymmetry, contrasting materials, and symbolic depth...all elements I believe are increasingly relevant in contemporary jewelry. As Clients and collectors seek pieces with meaning and individuality, I hope this ring encourages a shift toward designs that are both emotionally resonant and structurally innovative.At the same time, its timeless appeal comes from its balance of form, materials, and symbolism. The contrast between light and dark, movement and stillness, elegance and boldness, speaks to something universal. I always aim to create wearable pieces of art, objects that transcend generations. Because to me, beauty and elegance are not subjective, they are an attitude.

I am not just a designer, but also a production specialist and bench jeweler, which means I have a deep understanding of the entire process of creating a piece of jewelry, from concept to completion. I have the technical knowledge required to ensure the longevity and durability of a piece like the Kashmir Ring. I am fully aware of the necessary thicknesses and proportions, particularly the width of the bridges connecting the voids, to ensure that the structure remains strong and stable while still allowing for the intricate balance of positive and negative spaces. This expertise enables me to create a design that is both visually striking, structurally sound and elegant.

The Middle East is known for its vibrant use of color, and in jewelry, there is an abundance of precious stones. I chose diamonds to draw the eye to the top of the ring, where you will find the blue sapphire and citrine - cold and warm tones that naturally enhance each other. The addition of a touch of red garnet surprises the eye, especially when viewed from all angles, creating an element of intrigue. While I wanted to showcase this rich palette, I was careful not to overuse gemstones, as my goal was to create a modern, wearable piece of art that still honors the traditional aesthetics of Kashmir textiles.

First and foremost, I design, blueprint, and produce my jewelry as if I were creating it for myself to wear. I am very meticulous and particular about every detail, which ensures the final piece is perfect. Anatomy is a key consideration in my design process - understanding how the piece will interact with the body is essential. By carefully balancing weight and volume, I am able to create a statement piece that, despite its bold dimensions, feels surprisingly light and comfortable, almost as if you are barely wearing it.

The Kashmir Ring was entirely crafted by hand using the ancient lost wax technique, which allowed me to fully embrace traditional craftsmanship. After completing the physical piece, I recreated the design in Rhinoceros to digitize the model. This step freed me from the constraints of the bulky traditional mold and enabled me to create a precise 3D representation of the ring. The digital model also allowed me to produce a detailed three-dimensional video, showcasing the ring's volume and seamless pattern in a way that enhances appreciation for its intricate design.

I have my own philosophy: when something is truly beautiful, it lasts forever, transcending trends and time. Beauty is not subjective; it is objective. True beauty is timeless. That is the hallmark of exceptional design: the ability to create pieces that never lose their appeal and stand apart from ordinary designs. This timeless quality is what defines true luxury and distinguishes carefully crafted, high-end creations. I am lucky to have been born with a natural talent for design, nurtured in an environment filled with a deep appreciation for craftsmanship, art, beauty, and culture. For me, the process is instinctive. So I reaaly cannot tell you how I did it, because I just do it, whitout even thinking.

If you observe the model both frontally and laterally, you'll notice that it primarily follows the golden spiral. However, adhering strictly to the golden ratio would have resulted in a different, less refined dome head. Additionally, from the lateral perspective, it would have compromised the comfortable wearability that I always prioritize in my designs. To adapt these classical proportions, I made subtle adjustments to ensure a harmonious balance between aesthetic appeal and functionality, creating a seamless connection between the shank and the head without sacrificing elegance or comfort.

Traditional dome rings often feature a rounded, voluminous shape, with a smooth, continuous surface, sometimes embellished by one or more stones, or a pavé. However, with the Kashmir Ring, I consciously chose to challenge the conventional fullness and uniformity of the dome. Instead of a simple, solid form, I reinterpreted the dome with a more intricate, layered design, which brings a sense of lightness and movement to the piece. The smooth curve is broken up by subtle detailing that enhances its visual complexity, while maintaining a sense of elegance. Additionally, I focused on achieving a balance between the structure's boldness and the need for comfort, ensuring the ring feels as good as it looks. By merging traditional elements with modern sensibilities, I reinvented the classic dome ring into something more dynamic and refined.

There are no specific techniques for this; it’s more about having a certain finesse. Your hands need to be both gentle and steady. I had to work very carefully with the saw and the drill. In the more delicate areas where the model cracked, I used dental instruments to melt wax and repair it. Once the repairs were done, I meticulously reviewed the entire model to check for any missing details or imperfections. The goal is to ensure the wax is as smooth and flawless as possible before moving forward.

Yes, I believe the Kashmir Ring represents a step forward in this regard. While many designers and jewelers in the past and present have created pieces clearly inspired by specific cultures, they often lack a truly modern approach. With the Kashmir Ring, I aimed to transcend the direct replication of cultural motifs by reinterpreting them through a contemporary lens, blending tradition with innovation. By harmonizing cultural symbolism with sleek, modern aesthetics, I hope to inspire future designers to explore deeper, more meaningful ways of integrating cultural fusion into contemporary jewelry design, making it both timeless and relevant to today’s luxury market. With the recognition from the A' Design Award, I believe this message will be acknowledged and shared, further influencing the evolution of cultural integration in jewelry design.

I was inspired by a specific species of hummingbird known for its vibrant, iridescent plumage. I worked with a photo of that bird in front of me throughout the entire design process, using its exact colors as my guide. The bright greens, blues, and subtle sparkles in its feathers led me to carefully select and arrange diamonds, sapphires, and tsavorites to recreate its natural brilliance. This attention to detail allowed me to bring the bird’s vivid beauty to life in The Hummingbird Single Earring.

Designing the weight distribution for The Hummingbird Single Earring was quite a challenge since the balance of the piece relied entirely on two key elements: the tail and the beak. I had to carefully account for the total weight, ensuring that the tail was crafted to securely hold the upper part of the ear while maintaining enough weight to prevent the hummingbird from tipping forward. The beak acts as the pivot point, perfectly positioning the piece and giving it the stability it needs, all while preserving the natural grace of a hovering hummingbird.

Rhodium is an incredibly shiny metal that allows for a beautiful range of hues, from white to black. This made it the perfect choice for replicating the realistic plumage of a hummingbird’s tail. By carefully applying rhodium plating, I was able to create subtle color gradients that mimic the natural textures and dimensional effects of real feathers, adding depth and lifelike detail to it.

The design of "The Hummingbird" is a true blend of traditional craftsmanship and modern technology. Hand-carving taught me how to sculpt organic and elegant shapes, which I absolutely love. Even though many people might find it crazy to create something as intricate as the hummingbird using Rhinoceros, I approached it with the same care and detail as if I were carving it by hand. This allowed me to bring a sense of artistry and natural flow to the piece while leveraging CAD/CAM technology for precision in structure and weight distribution. The result is a design that feels both lifelike and technically perfect, seamlessly merging tradition with innovation.

Creating this piece was a delicate balancing act between achieving true-to-life proportions and ensuring it was wearable. I went through countless resin prototypes, fine-tuning the dimensions at every step. During the production of the first metal prototype, I had to make practical adjustments to improve wearability, such as adding a hidden clasp in the tail for stability. Of course, there are other clever design secrets I incorporated, but those I’ll keep to myself :-) !

"The Hummingbird" reflects my belief in the harmony between humans and nature, but my jewelry is also deeply inspired by respect for different cultures. Each piece embodies not only the beauty of the natural world but also the rich traditions and values of various cultures. Jewelry, to me, is a way to tell stories—stories that connect us to nature, history, and the diverse expressions of human creativity. Through this piece, I hope to inspire a deeper appreciation for the wonders of nature and the importance of preserving both the environment and the cultural heritage that shapes us.

Of course, it’s simple: by ensuring scientific accuracy in the measurements, I was able to create a piece that feels incredibly lifelike. When you wear this earring, it’s as if a real hummingbird is gently perched on your ear in the most natural way. This realistic proportion and detail make the piece truly impressive—everyone who sees it is stunned by how alive it feels, capturing the essence of the bird in a way that’s both artistic and scientifically true to nature.

Earning recognition through the A' Design Award has been incredibly inspiring and validating. It reinforced my belief in the power of nature-inspired design and encouraged me to continue exploring the intricate beauty of the natural world. This international acclaim has motivated me to push the boundaries of my creativity even further, knowing that nature’s wonders can be translated into jewelry that resonates globally. It has also reminded me of the responsibility I have to create pieces that not only captivate but also honor the environment and the cultures that inspire them.

My advice to aspiring jewelry designers would be to always start with a deep respect for the natural world. Take the time to observe and study your subject closely - whether it's a bird, a flower, or any element of nature. Don’t rush the process. The key is to combine your artistic vision with technical precision, ensuring that every detail is both beautiful and functional. Embrace both traditional craftsmanship and modern technology, as they can work together to bring your vision to life. And most importantly, stay true to the essence of what you’re trying to represent - nature’s beauty lies in its authenticity and its imperfections, so let that guide your designs.