Sarah Sõrmus by Anna-Reetta Vaananen is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2022 Pronksauhind A' Design Award in Ehtedisain Competition Category.

PronksEhted· 2022

Sarah Sõrmus

by Anna-Reetta Vaananen

Client: Anna's Darling

Pronksauhind A' Design Award Winner in Ehted Category

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Verified Award Winner

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Visit Site View at A' Design Award Press Release Award Badge

Colors

The Design

About Sarah Sõrmus

Sarah on kuldsõrmus, mille inspiratsiooniks on peoonia sordiaretis ning näitlejanna Sarah Bernhard, kelle järgi see on nime saanud. Sõrmus mõjub korraga massiivse ja õrnana, sarnaselt lillele endale. Selle välimus muutub sõltuvalt vaatenurgast. Sarah on valmistatud ringlussevõetud 585-preemi kollasest kullast, kasutades kadumatu vaha valu ja kullassepa plaaditehnikaid. Lille kihid vormiti, tilgutades sulatatud vaha rauast kerakujulisele tööriistale, seejärel valati need kullast, poleeriti ja ühendati kuldtraadiga, kasutades vaid mõningaid jootekohti. Disain ühendab endas kantava ehte ja kunstiteose.

The Recognition

About the Pronksauhind A' Design Award

Sarah Sõrmus on Pronksauhinna A' Design Award võitja, väga prestiižikas tunnustus, mis antakse silmapaistvatele disainidele, mida iseloomustavad loovus, leidlikkus ja teravmeelsus. Pronksvõitjad on küllaldaselt osavad ja tabavalt loovad teosed, mis kinnitavad oma disainerite laia kogemust, kujutlusvõimet ja leidlikkust. Sarah Sõrmus peaks olema kõrgelt hinnatud, imetletud ja armastatud objekt, mis on märkimisväärselt professionaalne ja uuenduslik. See Pronksauhinna A' Design Award võidudisain ühendab parimaid tavasid kunstis, teaduses, disainis ja tehnoloogias ning on suurepärane oma detailidele pööratud tähelepanu poolest. Sarah Sõrmus rahuldab suurepäraselt vajadusi, puudutab soove, võlub tundeid ja pakub huvi uudishimule.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: Sarah ring is made from gold with lost wax casting and goldsmith plate techniques. The ring is massive and fragile at the same time. Sarah jewelry has been inspired by peony and the very first superstar Sarah Bernhard. This design is unique combination of good usability and art jewelry at the same time. From each angle it is different and gives an impression of hand made artefact and unique piece of art.
Dimensions & Packaging: Material 585 yellow gold
Size of the flower 21 mm x 14 mm
Width of the ring 4 mm
Size of the ring varies.
Weight of the ring 19 g in ring size 17.
Tags: ring, goldring, flowerjewelry, peony, sarahbernhard, lostwaxcasting
Production Technology: Sarah ring is made with lost wax casting and goldsmith plate techniques from recycled 585 yellow gold. Original flower pieces were made by melting wax and forming the flower pieces drop by drop on top of an iron sphere. The ring part is made from gold plate by hand. After casting the wax made flower pieces it was all joined together with supporting and visual adding gold wire with only three solders.
Design Challenge: In this Sarah design process were used scketching and model making techniques before moving in to experimental form giving. The biggest challenge was to create something new that does not only imitate nature and flower but expresses the desired character of nature, human being and a time era. These all were to adapt in to wearable and beautiful jewelry.
Research: For the Sarah project background was to gather visual material about the peony flower construction and appearance. The flower character was as important as the actress Sarah Bernhard who had given her name to this one particular peony. To accomplish this final ring form there were movies to watch, Muchas posters to see and peony blossoms to tear down. The biggest insight was to create more than nature had given in to a usable and pretentious ring.
Inspiration: Sarah design project started from the love towards gardens beauties sarah bernhard peonies that are multilayered lush and fragile. Peony got its name from the worlds first superstar Sarah Bernhard. This actress and courtesan has given her face to a nature inspired Art Nouveau period by artist Alphonse Muchas paintbrush. This one particular peony cultivar has also been named after her perhaps because of their look alike in looks and in essence. Sarah ring embodies them both woman and the flower.
Project Duration: Project started in July 2020 and finished in June 2021, and was exhibited in June 2021 in Sonkajarvi Finland.
Operation Flow: Challenge was to make original and interesting design. Sarah form giving started with molding wax sheets and adding melted wax on a sphere tool. Wax models were lost wax casted in to gold and then best forms for the flower part were chosen. Casted gold layers were grinded polishes and soldered together with one gold wire. Parts were elevated from each other with slugs to lift the flower layers and make it lively and light. The design is made so there would be as little solders as possible.
Patents: All right belong to Anna-Reetta Väänänen, Anna's Darling Ky, Sonkajärvi, Finland
Image Credits: Image #1: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Image #2: Photographer Elina Manninen, Model Johanna Nordblad, 2021
Image #3: Photographer Elina Manninen, Model Johanna Nordblad, 2021
Image #4: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Image #5: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Video Credits: Valtteri Kantanen, 2021