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Sarah حلقه by Anna-Reetta Vaananen

Sarah حلقه by Anna-Reetta Vaananen is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2022 جایزه برنزی A' Design Award in طراحی جواهرات Competition Category.


برنزجواهرات· 2022

Sarah حلقه

by Anna-Reetta Vaananen

Client: Anna's Darling

جایزه برنزی A' Design Award Winner in جواهرات Category

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Verified Award Winner

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Colors

The Design

About Sarah حلقه

سارا حلقه‌ای طلایی است که از یک گونه گل صد‌تومانی (پیونی) و از بازیگری که این گونه به نامش نامگذاری شده، سارا برنارد، الهام گرفته است. این حلقه هم‌زمان استوار و ظریف به نظر می‌رسد، درست مانند خود گل. ظاهر آن بسته به زاویه دید تغییر می‌کند. سارا از طلای زرد بازیافتی عیار ۵۸۵ با استفاده از تکنیک‌های ریخته‌گری به روش موم گمشده و ورق‌کاری زرگری ساخته شده است. لایه‌های گل با چکاندن موم مذاب روی ابزاری کروی‌شکل از جنس آهن شکل گرفته‌اند، سپس در طلا ریخته‌گری، صیقل داده شده و با سیم طلا و تنها با چند نقطه لحیم به یکدیگر متصل شده‌اند. این طراحی، جواهرات قابل استفاده روزمره را با هنر در هم می‌آمیزد.

The Recognition

About the جایزه برنزی A' Design Award

Sarah حلقه برنده جایزه برنزی A' Design Award است، شناختی بسیار معتبر که به طراحی‌های برجسته‌ای اعطا می‌شود که با خلاقیت، نبوغ و زیرکی متمایز می‌شوند. برندگان برنز مصنوعاتی بسیار ماهرانه و چشمگیر خلاق‌اند که تجربه گسترده، تخیل و ابتکار طراحان خود را تأیید می‌کنند. از Sarah حلقه انتظار می‌رود شیئی بسیار ارجمند، ستوده و دوست‌داشتنی باشد که به‌طور چشمگیری حرفه‌ای و نوآورانه است. این طراحی برنده جایزه برنزی A' Design Award بهترین رویه‌ها را در هنر، علم، طراحی و فناوری در خود جمع می‌کند و به سبب توجه به جزئیات برجسته است. Sarah حلقه نیازها را زیبا برآورده می‌کند، به خواسته‌ها دست می‌زند، احساسات را مجذوب می‌سازد و کنجکاوی را برمی‌انگیزد.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties
Sarah ring is made from gold with lost wax casting and goldsmith plate techniques. The ring is massive and fragile at the same time. Sarah jewelry has been inspired by peony and the very first superstar Sarah Bernhard. This design is unique combination of good usability and art jewelry at the same time. From each angle it is different and gives an impression of hand made artefact and unique piece of art.
Dimensions & Packaging
Material 585 yellow gold
Size of the flower 21 mm x 14 mm
Width of the ring 4 mm
Size of the ring varies.
Weight of the ring 19 g in ring size 17.
Tags
ring, goldring, flowerjewelry, peony, sarahbernhard, lostwaxcasting
Production Technology
Sarah ring is made with lost wax casting and goldsmith plate techniques from recycled 585 yellow gold. Original flower pieces were made by melting wax and forming the flower pieces drop by drop on top of an iron sphere. The ring part is made from gold plate by hand. After casting the wax made flower pieces it was all joined together with supporting and visual adding gold wire with only three solders.
Design Challenge
In this Sarah design process were used scketching and model making techniques before moving in to experimental form giving. The biggest challenge was to create something new that does not only imitate nature and flower but expresses the desired character of nature, human being and a time era. These all were to adapt in to wearable and beautiful jewelry.
Research
For the Sarah project background was to gather visual material about the peony flower construction and appearance. The flower character was as important as the actress Sarah Bernhard who had given her name to this one particular peony. To accomplish this final ring form there were movies to watch, Muchas posters to see and peony blossoms to tear down. The biggest insight was to create more than nature had given in to a usable and pretentious ring.
Inspiration
Sarah design project started from the love towards gardens beauties sarah bernhard peonies that are multilayered lush and fragile. Peony got its name from the worlds first superstar Sarah Bernhard. This actress and courtesan has given her face to a nature inspired Art Nouveau period by artist Alphonse Muchas paintbrush. This one particular peony cultivar has also been named after her perhaps because of their look alike in looks and in essence. Sarah ring embodies them both woman and the flower.
Project Duration
Project started in July 2020 and finished in June 2021, and was exhibited in June 2021 in Sonkajarvi Finland.
Operation Flow
Challenge was to make original and interesting design. Sarah form giving started with molding wax sheets and adding melted wax on a sphere tool. Wax models were lost wax casted in to gold and then best forms for the flower part were chosen. Casted gold layers were grinded polishes and soldered together with one gold wire. Parts were elevated from each other with slugs to lift the flower layers and make it lively and light. The design is made so there would be as little solders as possible.
Patents
All right belong to Anna-Reetta Väänänen, Anna's Darling Ky, Sonkajärvi, Finland
Image Credits
Image #1: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Image #2: Photographer Elina Manninen, Model Johanna Nordblad, 2021
Image #3: Photographer Elina Manninen, Model Johanna Nordblad, 2021
Image #4: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Image #5: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Video Credits: Valtteri Kantanen, 2021

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