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Reinterpretation Of Changshan پوشاک by Tong Tong

Reinterpretation Of Changshan پوشاک by Tong Tong is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2024 جایزه برنزی A' Design Award in طراحی مد، پوشاک و لباس Competition Category.


برنزمد· 2024

Reinterpretation Of Changshan پوشاک

by Tong Tong

جایزه برنزی A' Design Award Winner in مد Category

92,381

Verified Award Winner

Verify Award Status for #159036

Colors

The Design

About Reinterpretation Of Changshan پوشاک

این طراحی به شکوه بی‌زمان چانگشان، پوشاک سنتی ارجمند مردانه چینی، ادای احترام می‌کند. این تفسیر نوین با الهام از سیلوئت ظریف آن، به‌گونه‌ای یکپارچه میراث را با نوآوری درهم می‌آمیزد. درزهای عمودی و جیب‌های ظریفانه ادغام‌شده، ضمن حفظ سادگی، کارایی را ارتقا می‌بخشند. این اثر از پارچه جناغی پشمی با تاب بالا ساخته شده و پشتیبانی ساختاری و ظاهری عاری از چروک ارائه می‌دهد. از طریق روش‌های دقیق خیاطی، چالش بازطراحی یقه با تضمین هم‌زمان منحنی‌های نرم و یکپارچگی ساختاری، برطرف می‌شود.

The Recognition

About the جایزه برنزی A' Design Award

Reinterpretation Of Changshan پوشاک برنده جایزه برنزی A' Design Award است، شناختی بسیار معتبر که به طراحی‌های برجسته‌ای اعطا می‌شود که با خلاقیت، نبوغ و زیرکی متمایز می‌شوند. برندگان برنز مصنوعاتی بسیار ماهرانه و چشمگیر خلاق‌اند که تجربه گسترده، تخیل و ابتکار طراحان خود را تأیید می‌کنند. از Reinterpretation Of Changshan پوشاک انتظار می‌رود شیئی بسیار ارجمند، ستوده و دوست‌داشتنی باشد که به‌طور چشمگیری حرفه‌ای و نوآورانه است. این طراحی برنده جایزه برنزی A' Design Award بهترین رویه‌ها را در هنر، علم، طراحی و فناوری در خود جمع می‌کند و به سبب توجه به جزئیات برجسته است. Reinterpretation Of Changshan پوشاک نیازها را زیبا برآورده می‌کند، به خواسته‌ها دست می‌زند، احساسات را مجذوب می‌سازد و کنجکاوی را برمی‌انگیزد.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties
While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
Dimensions & Packaging
Full-body Length
Tags
Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
Production Technology
A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
Design Challenge
The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
Research
Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
Inspiration
This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
Project Duration
This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
Operation Flow
The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
Team Members
Tong Tong
Image Credits
Image #1-5 Photographer:Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023

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