Reinterpretation Of Changshan Ball Éadaigh by Tong Tong

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Ball Éadaigh by Tong Tong is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2024 Duais Cré-umha A' Design Award in Dearadh Faisin, Éadaí agus Éadaigh Competition Category.

Cré-umhaFaisean· 2024

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Ball Éadaigh

by Tong Tong

Duais Cré-umha A' Design Award Winner in Faisean Category

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Verified Award Winner

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View at A' Design Award Press Release Award Badge

Colors

The Design

About Reinterpretation Of Changshan Ball Éadaigh

Tugann an dearadh ómós do ghallántacht shíoraí an Changshan, ball éadaigh traidisiúnta Síneach d'fhir atá an-mheasúil. Le siolueta mhínithe, cumaiscíonn an athléirmhíniú seo oidhreacht le nuálaíocht go seamlas. Feabhsaíonn seama ingearacha agus pócaí comhtháite go discréideach feidhmiúlacht an éadaigh agus modhúlacht á coinneáil. Déanta as tualach olna ard-chastha, soláthraíonn sé tacaíocht struchtúrach agus cuma gan rocaí. Trí mhodhanna táilliúireachta mionchúiseacha, sáraitear an dúshlán a bhaineann le líne mhuiníl a athshamhlú agus cuair réidh agus sláine struchtúrach á gcinntiú.

The Recognition

About the Duais Cré-umha A' Design Award

Bhuaigh an dearadh Reinterpretation Of Changshan Ball Éadaigh Duais Cré-umha A' Design Award, aitheantas an-ghradamach a bhronntar ar dhearaí sármhaithe a mbíonn cruthaitheacht, aireagacht agus géarchúis mar shaintréithe acu. Is déantúsáin ghlic agus chruthaitheacha go suntasach iad buaiteoirí Cré-umha a dhearbhaíonn taithí fhairsing, samhlaíocht agus acmhainneacht a ndearthóirí. Táthar ag súil go mbeidh an dearadh Reinterpretation Of Changshan Ball Éadaigh ina rud a bhfuil an-mheas air, a n-ardaítear agus a ghráitear, atá thar a bheith gairmiúil agus nuálach. Ionchorpraíonn an dearadh seo a bhuaigh Duais Cré-umha A' Design Award na cleachtais is fearr san ealaín, san eolaíocht, sa dearadh agus sa teicneolaíocht, agus tá sé sármhaith as a aird ar mhionsonraí. Sásaíonn an dearadh Reinterpretation Of Changshan Ball Éadaigh riachtanais go hálainn, bainíonn sé le mianta, cuireann sé draíocht ar mhothúcháin agus tarraingíonn sé fiosracht.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
Dimensions & Packaging: Full-body Length
Tags: Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
Production Technology: A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
Design Challenge: The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
Research: Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
Inspiration: This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
Project Duration: This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
Operation Flow: The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
Team Members: Tong Tong
Image Credits: Image #1-5 Photographer：Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023