Poem Sapce Vestido de Refugallo Mínimo by Bonan Li

Poem Sapce Vestido de Refugallo Mínimo by Bonan Li is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2025 A' Design Award de Bronce in Deseño de Moda, Vestiario e Prendas Competition Category.

BronceModa· 2025

Poem Sapce Vestido de Refugallo Mínimo

by Bonan Li

Client: Bonan Li Studio

A' Design Award de Bronce Winner in Moda Category

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Verified Award Winner

Verify Award Status for #169597

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Colors

The Design

About Poem Sapce Vestido de Refugallo Mínimo

Poem Space é un vestido de refugallo mínimo que combina un método innovador de pregado con corte de refugallo cero. O vestido está feito con teas tecidas a man producidas por artesáns locais en varias rexións, preservando técnicas tradicionais de tecelaxe. O encollemento localizado da tea da forma ao pano, formando pregas orgánicas tridimensionais en lugar de eliminar material por corte. Cada posición de prega fíxase a man e mapéase sobre cartón para a produción en pequenos lotes. As pregas escultóricas móvense co corpo e ofrecen tanto comodidade como estrutura.

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award de Bronce

Poem Sapce Vestido de Refugallo Mínimo gañou o A' Design Award de Bronce, un recoñecemento altamente prestixioso outorgado a deseños sobresaíntes que se distinguen pola creatividade, o enxeño e a sagacidade. Os gañadores Bronce son artefactos amplamente hábiles e sorprendentemente creativos que autentican a vasta experiencia, imaxinación e enxeño dos seus deseñadores. Espérase que Poem Sapce Vestido de Refugallo Mínimo sexa un obxecto moi apreciado, admirado e querido, notablemente profesional e innovador. Este deseño gañador do A' Design Award de Bronce incorpora as mellores prácticas da arte, a ciencia, o deseño e a tecnoloxía, e é excelente pola súa atención ao detalle. Poem Sapce Vestido de Refugallo Mínimo satisfai espléndidamente as necesidades, toca os desexos, encanta os sentimentos e atrae a curiosidade.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: The Shrink Pleat Minimal Waste Dress redefines sustainable fashion by integrating innovative pleating techniques with zero-waste cutting. Crafted from locally handwoven fabrics sourced globally, this design preserves traditional craftsmanship while reducing energy consumption. By harnessing localized fabric shrinkage, it forms organic, three-dimensional silhouettes with minimal material waste.
Dimensions & Packaging: Length: 1500 mm x Width: 800 mm x Thickness: 50 mm
Tags: sustainable fashion, zero-waste design, innovative pleating, fabric shrinkage technique, handwoven textiles, three-dimensional garment, traditional craftsmanship, small-batch production, sculptural fashion, eco-conscious design
Production Technology: The design employs zero-waste cutting and an innovative pleating technique that utilizes localized fabric shrinkage to create organic, three-dimensional forms. Each pleat position is meticulously hand-fixed and mapped onto cardboard for small-batch production, ensuring precision and minimizing waste in the manufacturing process.
Design Challenge: The most challenging aspect of this project was balancing sustainability with structural innovation. Achieving precise pleat placement through fabric shrinkage required extensive testing, as different textiles reacted unpredictably. Additionally, sourcing ethically handwoven fabrics while maintaining production feasibility posed logistical challenges. Overcoming these obstacles involved iterative experimentation, collaboration with artisans, and refining techniques to ensure both aesthetic integrity and minimal waste.
Research: This research explores sustainable garment construction through fabric behavior analysis and zero-waste design. The objective was to develop an innovative pleating method that minimizes waste while enhancing three-dimensionality. Using an experimental approach, I tested localized fabric shrinkage and pleat fixation techniques, documenting results through draping, hand-marking, and pattern adjustments. Material tests were conducted to study fabric reactions, with findings informing a scalable, small-batch production model. The research promotes sustainability by reducing textile waste and preserving traditional weaving techniques.
Inspiration: The intersection of traditional craftsmanship and contemporary sustainability inspired the Shrink Pleat Minimal Waste Dress. I sought to challenge conventional garment construction by exploring fabric behavior through pleating and shrinkage techniques. Drawing from research on localized textile manipulation, I developed a method to create dynamic, sculptural forms while minimizing waste. This project reflects my commitment to preserving heritage weaving techniques.
Project Duration: This project was exhibited in Cave of the Day, Cave of the Night in Brooklyn, New York. It began in New York in 2013 and was completed in mid-2014 in New York.
Operation Flow: The Shrink Pleat Minimal Waste Dress transforms through a unique pleating method that shapes the fabric organically using controlled shrinkage. Instead of traditional cutting, the fabric naturally adjusts, creating sculptural folds that move with the body. Each pleat is carefully placed to enhance form and flexibility, offering comfort and structure. This approach reduces fabric waste while achieving a dynamic, flowing silhouette that feels effortless yet meticulously crafted.
Image Credits: Photographer Hao Zeng