Traditional Parure Papa Lei by Ekaterina Korzh

Traditional Parure Papa Lei by Ekaterina Korzh is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2025 A' Design Award Hao in Hoʻolālā Lole Keaka a me Lole Hoʻoilina Competition Category.

HaoHoʻolālā Lole Keaka· 2025

Traditional Parure Papa Lei

by Ekaterina Korzh

Client: Korzhstudio

A' Design Award Hao Winner in Hoʻolālā Lole Keaka Category

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Verified Award Winner

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Colors

The Design

About Traditional Parure Papa Lei

Hoʻololi hou kēia papahana i kahi papa lei kuʻuna Rūkia ma o ka hui pū ʻana i nā ʻenehana paʻa mau me nā ʻano hana lima kuʻuna. ʻEkolu mau mea koʻikoʻi o ka Russian Traditional Parure: he Lei Poʻo Hoʻolauleʻa, he lei ʻāʻī ʻāmepeka wahaheʻe, a me he lei ʻāʻī Ojerelok. Ua noiʻi ʻo Ekaterina i nā lei mai ka ʻĀkau o Rūkia e hoʻāla hou i kona mau hana lima a me ka moʻolelo, me ka hoʻokomo ʻana i nā ʻano hou paʻa mau e like me ka hana ʻana i ʻāmepeka wahaheʻe mai ka aniani i hoʻōla hou ʻia. Eia hou, ua hoʻonui ʻo ia i nā hiki hoʻolālā a hoʻomohala i kahi ʻano kūʻokoʻa no ka hoʻopili ʻana i ka ʻano hana kula kolowakona pololei ma luna o ka aniani i hoʻōla hou ʻia.

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award Hao

Ua lanakila ka hoʻolālā Traditional Parure Papa Lei i ka A' Design Award Hao, he ʻike hoʻohanohano i hāʻawi ʻia i nā hoʻolālā maikaʻi e hoʻokō ana i nā koi ʻoihana a ʻoihana hana i manaʻo ʻia mai nā mea hoʻokumu i hana maikaʻi ʻia. Hōʻike nā lanakila Hao i ka mākau nui, ka loea kiʻekiʻe, ka ʻike akamai a me ka hiki hana noʻeau o ka poʻe i hana iā lākou. Manaʻo ʻia ʻo ka hoʻolālā Traditional Parure Papa Lei he mea hoʻokumu i mahalo nui ʻia, hoʻohiwahiwa ʻia a aloha ʻia e pono a hou. ʻO kēia hoʻolālā i lanakila i ka A' Design Award Hao e hoʻohui ana i nā hana maikaʻi loa o ka ʻoihana a loaʻa nā ʻano ʻenehana mākaukau i hui pū ʻia me ka ʻike hana a me ka makakoho. Mahalo ʻia ka hoʻolālā Traditional Parure Papa Lei no kona nānā pono a ua hoʻolālā ʻia e hāʻawi i nā hoʻomaikaʻi ola e kōkua ai i ka hana ʻana i ka honua i wahi maikaʻi aku.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: The project is devoted to the recreation of conventional jewelry sets with the use of contemporary sustainable technologies and traditional craft-based techniques.
The Russian Traditional Parure consists of three major decorative elements: a Celebration Tiara, a faux amber neckpiece, and an Ojerelok neckpiece.
Dimensions & Packaging: Celebration Tiara
Dimensions: 35 cm x 35 cm x 12 cm
Traditional Amber neckpiece
Length: 50 cm
Weight: 250 g
Ojerelok Neckpiece
Length: 150 cm
Tags: Russian, tiaras, gold, pearl, jewelry, jewellery, historical, craft, traditional
Production Technology: Celebration Tiara
Medium: Cotton cord, cotton canvas, mother of pearl, silk velvet, silk canvas, vintage glass and gemstone beads, flour adhesive, vitreous enamel, freshwater pearls, goldwork wire, wool thread, brass, and fine silver.
Traditional Amber neckpiece
Medium: Recycled glass, copper, enamel inlay, and rough wool thread.
Ojerelok Neckpiece
Medium: Cotton cord, linen canvas, mother of pearl, silk velvet, silk canvas, glass, and gemstone beads.
Design Challenge: In the project, I studied jewelry from the traditional costumes of the Russian North to address this parure with historical accuracy while applying a new contemporary approach. These techniques are time-consuming and technically challenging. Additionally, I developed a unique method for applying the cloisonne goldsmithing technique directly onto recycled glass that required me to do profound research on glass qualities and closonne techniques.
Research: This project revises a traditional Russian jewelry set using modern sustainable techniques and traditional crafting methods. The Russian Traditional Parure includes three main pieces: a Celebration Tiara, a faux amber neckpiece, and an Ojerelok neckpiece. I studied jewelry from the traditional costumes of the Russian North to preserve these crafts. This project combines modern sustainable practices with traditional craft techniques.
Inspiration: I blend traditional hand embroidery techniques with metalwork in ornamental jewelry to illustrate my protest of the current Russian state propaganda based on fake national ideals. I do it by recalling original historical Russian craft practices and the conventional crafts I discovered through my profound research of traditional costumes and the garment history of Russia.
Project Duration: The Russian Parure took me approximately 400 hours for the development of design, embroidery work, metal work, etc. The project started in Lawrence, KS, in October of 2023 and finished in April of 2024
Operation Flow: This jewelry set comprises three elements: a tiara, a faux amber necklace, and a beaded neckpiece. Traditionally, it was worn by peasants in Northern Russia until the early 20th century. The set was worn by young women on their ceremony passing into the adulthood that was happening prior their wedding day.
Team Members: Ekaterina Korzh
Image Credits: Ekaterina Korzh
Aaron Paden
Anastassia Rodionova