Sarah טבעת by Anna-Reetta Vaananen is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2022 פרס הארד של A' Design Award in עיצוב תכשיטים Competition Category.

ארדתכשיטים· 2022

Sarah טבעת

by Anna-Reetta Vaananen

Client: Anna's Darling

פרס הארד של A' Design Award Winner in תכשיטים Category

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Colors

The Design

About Sarah טבעת

טבעת שרה עשויה זהב, בהשראת זן אדמונית (פאוני) ובהשראת השחקנית שעל שמה נקראה, שרה ברנאר. הטבעת נראית מוצקה ועדינה בו-זמנית, בדומה לפרח עצמו. מראה הטבעת משתנה בהתאם לזווית הצפייה. שרה מיוצרת מזהב צהוב ממוחזר בעדינות 585, בשילוב טכניקות יציקה בשיטת "הדונג האבוד" וטכניקות צורפות מסורתיות. שכבות הפרח עוצבו על ידי הטפטפת שעווה מותכת על כלי כדורי מברזל, ולאחר מכן נוצקו בזהב, לוטשו וחוברו זו לזו באמצעות חוט זהב תוך שימוש במספר מועט בלבד של הלחמות. העיצוב משלב בין תכשיט לביש לבין יצירת אמנות.

The Recognition

About the פרס הארד של A' Design Award

העיצוב Sarah טבעת זכה בפרס הארד של A' Design Award, הכרה יוקרתית מאוד הניתנת לעיצובים בולטים שמצטיינים ביצירתיות, בתושייה ובחוכמה. זוכי הארד הם חפצים מיומנים לרוב ויצירתיים באופן בולט שמעידים על הניסיון הרב, הדמיון והתבונה של מעצביהם. מהעיצוב Sarah טבעת מצפים שיהיה חפץ מוערך מאוד, מוערץ ואהוב, מקצועי וחדשני בצורה בולטת. העיצוב הזה שזכה בפרס הארד של A' Design Award משלב את השיטות הטובות ביותר באמנות, במדע, בעיצוב ובטכנולוגיה, ומצוין בתשומת הלב שלו לפרטים. העיצוב Sarah טבעת מספק להפליא צרכים, נוגע ברצונות, מקסים רגשות ומושך סקרנות.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: Sarah ring is made from gold with lost wax casting and goldsmith plate techniques. The ring is massive and fragile at the same time. Sarah jewelry has been inspired by peony and the very first superstar Sarah Bernhard. This design is unique combination of good usability and art jewelry at the same time. From each angle it is different and gives an impression of hand made artefact and unique piece of art.
Dimensions & Packaging: Material 585 yellow gold
Size of the flower 21 mm x 14 mm
Width of the ring 4 mm
Size of the ring varies.
Weight of the ring 19 g in ring size 17.
Tags: ring, goldring, flowerjewelry, peony, sarahbernhard, lostwaxcasting
Production Technology: Sarah ring is made with lost wax casting and goldsmith plate techniques from recycled 585 yellow gold. Original flower pieces were made by melting wax and forming the flower pieces drop by drop on top of an iron sphere. The ring part is made from gold plate by hand. After casting the wax made flower pieces it was all joined together with supporting and visual adding gold wire with only three solders.
Design Challenge: In this Sarah design process were used scketching and model making techniques before moving in to experimental form giving. The biggest challenge was to create something new that does not only imitate nature and flower but expresses the desired character of nature, human being and a time era. These all were to adapt in to wearable and beautiful jewelry.
Research: For the Sarah project background was to gather visual material about the peony flower construction and appearance. The flower character was as important as the actress Sarah Bernhard who had given her name to this one particular peony. To accomplish this final ring form there were movies to watch, Muchas posters to see and peony blossoms to tear down. The biggest insight was to create more than nature had given in to a usable and pretentious ring.
Inspiration: Sarah design project started from the love towards gardens beauties sarah bernhard peonies that are multilayered lush and fragile. Peony got its name from the worlds first superstar Sarah Bernhard. This actress and courtesan has given her face to a nature inspired Art Nouveau period by artist Alphonse Muchas paintbrush. This one particular peony cultivar has also been named after her perhaps because of their look alike in looks and in essence. Sarah ring embodies them both woman and the flower.
Project Duration: Project started in July 2020 and finished in June 2021, and was exhibited in June 2021 in Sonkajarvi Finland.
Operation Flow: Challenge was to make original and interesting design. Sarah form giving started with molding wax sheets and adding melted wax on a sphere tool. Wax models were lost wax casted in to gold and then best forms for the flower part were chosen. Casted gold layers were grinded polishes and soldered together with one gold wire. Parts were elevated from each other with slugs to lift the flower layers and make it lively and light. The design is made so there would be as little solders as possible.
Patents: All right belong to Anna-Reetta Väänänen, Anna's Darling Ky, Sonkajärvi, Finland
Image Credits: Image #1: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Image #2: Photographer Elina Manninen, Model Johanna Nordblad, 2021
Image #3: Photographer Elina Manninen, Model Johanna Nordblad, 2021
Image #4: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Image #5: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Video Credits: Valtteri Kantanen, 2021