Reinterpretation Of Changshan Khaub Ncaws by Tong Tong

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Khaub Ncaws by Tong Tong is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2024 A' Design Award Tooj in Tsim Khaub Ncaws Zam, Ris Tsho thiab Tsoos Tsho Competition Category.

ToojKhaub Ncaws Zam· 2024

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Khaub Ncaws

by Tong Tong

A' Design Award Tooj Winner in Khaub Ncaws Zam Category

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Verified Award Winner

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Colors

The Design

About Reinterpretation Of Changshan Khaub Ncaws

Tus qauv tsim no hwm txog kev zoo nkauj uas tsis muaj sijhawm kawg ntawm Changshan, ib yam khaub ncaws txiv neej Suav ib txwm muaj uas raug hwm heev. Ua rau nco txog nws tus qauv zoo nkauj thiab zoo, qhov kev txhais dua tshiab no sib xyaw cov cuab yeej cuab tam nrog kev tsim tshiab tau yooj yim heev. Cov xaws ntsug thiab cov hnab tshos uas muab sib koom ua ke kom zoo txhim kho kev ua haujlwm thaum tswj kev txo hwj. Tsim los ntawm high twist wool twill, nws muab kev txhawb nqa rau tus qauv thiab tsos tsis muaj qhov ntxuav. Los ntawm cov txheej txheem txiav xaws kom zoo meej, qhov kev sib tw ntawm kev xav dua tshiab txog dab tshos tau kov yeej thaum ua kom muaj ob qho tib si qhov nkhaus du thiab kev ruaj khov ntawm tus qauv.

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award Tooj

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Khaub Ncaws yog tus yeej ntawm A' Design Award Tooj, ib qho kev lees paub muaj meej mom heev uas muab rau cov qauv tsim tshwj xeeb uas txawv los ntawm kev tsim tshiab, kev txawj tsim thiab kev ntse. Cov neeg yeej Tooj yog cov khoom muaj txuj ci heev thiab tsim tshiab heev uas ua pov thawj txog kev paub ntau, kev xav thiab kev txawj ua ntawm cov kws tsim qauv. Reinterpretation Of Changshan Khaub Ncaws xav tias yuav yog ib qho khoom uas neeg hwm, qhuas thiab hlub, uas tshaj lij heev thiab tsim tshiab. Cov qauv tsim yeej A' Design Award Tooj no siv cov kev coj ua zoo tshaj plaws ntawm kev kos duab, kev tshawb fawb, kev tsim qauv thiab thev naus laus zis thiab zoo heev vim nws saib xyuas cov ntsiab lus. Reinterpretation Of Changshan Khaub Ncaws ua tau raws li cov kev xav tau zoo kawg, kov cov kev xav, ntxias cov kev xav thiab txhawb kev xav paub.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
Dimensions & Packaging: Full-body Length
Tags: Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
Production Technology: A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
Design Challenge: The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
Research: Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
Inspiration: This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
Project Duration: This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
Operation Flow: The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
Team Members: Tong Tong
Image Credits: Image #1-5 Photographer：Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023