Reinterpretation Of Changshan Odjeća – dizajner Tong Tong

Dizajn Reinterpretation Of Changshan Odjeća čiji je autor Tong Tong iznimno je cijenjeni dobitnik prestižne nagrade 2024 Brončana nagrada A' Design Award u natjecateljskoj kategoriji Dizajn Mode, Odjeće i Odjevnih Predmeta.

BroncaModa· 2024

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Odjeća

autor/ica Tong Tong

Dobitnik nagrade Brončana nagrada A' Design Award u kategoriji Moda

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Dizajn

O dizajnu Reinterpretation Of Changshan Odjeća

Dizajn odaje počast bezvremenskoj eleganciji Changshana, cijenjenog tradicionalnog kineskog muškog odjevnog predmeta. Evocirajući njegovu profinjenu siluetu, ova reinterpretacija neprimjetno spaja baštinu s inovacijom. Okomiti šavovi i diskretno integrirani džepovi poboljšavaju funkcionalnost uz zadržavanje umjerenosti. Izrađen od visoko upredene vunene keperne tkanine, nudi strukturnu potporu i izgled bez nabora. Kroz pažljive krojačke metode, izazov preoblikovanja ovratnika je prevladan uz osiguravanje glatkih linija i strukturnog integriteta.

Priznanje

O nagradi Brončana nagrada A' Design Award

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Odjeća je pobjednik Brončane nagrade A' Design Award, visoko prestižnog priznanja koje se dodjeljuje izvanrednim dizajnima što se odlikuju kreativnošću, domišljatošću i oštroumnošću. Brončani pobjednici izdašno su vješti i upečatljivo kreativni artefakti koji potvrđuju golemo iskustvo, maštu i snalažljivost svojih dizajnera. Očekuje se da Reinterpretation Of Changshan Odjeća bude visoko cijenjen, voljen i njegovan predmet koji je izuzetno profesionalan i inovativan. Ovaj dizajn koji je osvojio Brončanu nagradu A' Design Award uključuje najbolje prakse u umjetnosti, znanosti, dizajnu i tehnologiji i izvrstan je zbog pažnje posvećene detaljima. Reinterpretation Of Changshan Odjeća sjajno zadovoljava potrebe, dotiče želje, očarava osjećaje i privlači znatiželju.

Iza dizajna

Komplet za medije

Zasluge, članovi tima i tehnički detalji koje je dostavio dizajner.

Jedinstvena svojstva: While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
Dimenzije i pakiranje: Full-body Length
Oznake: Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
Proizvodna tehnologija: A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
Dizajnerski izazov: The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
Istraživanje: Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
Inspiracija: This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
Trajanje projekta: This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
Tijek rada: The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
Članovi tima: Tong Tong
Zasluge za fotografije: Image #1-5 Photographer：Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023