Poem Sapce Haljina s minimalnim otpadom by Bonan Li

Poem Sapce Haljina s minimalnim otpadom by Bonan Li is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2025 Brončana nagrada A' Design Award in Dizajn Mode, Odjeće i Odjevnih Predmeta Competition Category.

BroncaModa· 2025

Poem Sapce Haljina s minimalnim otpadom

by Bonan Li

Client: Bonan Li Studio

Brončana nagrada A' Design Award Winner in Moda Category

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Verified Award Winner

Verify Award Status for #169597

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The Design

About Poem Sapce Haljina s minimalnim otpadom

Poem Sapce je haljina s minimalnim otpadom koja kombinira inovativnu metodu plisiranja s krojenjem bez otpada. Haljina je izrađena od ručno tkanih tkanina koje proizvode lokalni obrtnici u nekoliko regija, čuvajući tako tradicionalne tehnike tkanja. Lokalizirano skupljanje tkanine oblikuje materijal, stvarajući organske trodimenzionalne nabore umjesto odsijecanja viška materijala. Položaj svakog nabora ručno je fiksiran i preslikan na karton radi proizvodnje u malim serijama. Skulpturalni nabori prate pokrete tijela te pružaju i udobnost i strukturu.

The Recognition

About the Brončana nagrada A' Design Award

Poem Sapce Haljina s minimalnim otpadom je pobjednik Brončane nagrade A' Design Award, visoko prestižnog priznanja koje se dodjeljuje izvanrednim dizajnima što se odlikuju kreativnošću, domišljatošću i oštroumnošću. Brončani pobjednici izdašno su vješti i upečatljivo kreativni artefakti koji potvrđuju golemo iskustvo, maštu i snalažljivost svojih dizajnera. Očekuje se da Poem Sapce Haljina s minimalnim otpadom bude visoko cijenjen, voljen i njegovan predmet koji je izuzetno profesionalan i inovativan. Ovaj dizajn koji je osvojio Brončanu nagradu A' Design Award uključuje najbolje prakse u umjetnosti, znanosti, dizajnu i tehnologiji i izvrstan je zbog pažnje posvećene detaljima. Poem Sapce Haljina s minimalnim otpadom sjajno zadovoljava potrebe, dotiče želje, očarava osjećaje i privlači znatiželju.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: The Shrink Pleat Minimal Waste Dress redefines sustainable fashion by integrating innovative pleating techniques with zero-waste cutting. Crafted from locally handwoven fabrics sourced globally, this design preserves traditional craftsmanship while reducing energy consumption. By harnessing localized fabric shrinkage, it forms organic, three-dimensional silhouettes with minimal material waste.
Dimensions & Packaging: Length: 1500 mm x Width: 800 mm x Thickness: 50 mm
Tags: sustainable fashion, zero-waste design, innovative pleating, fabric shrinkage technique, handwoven textiles, three-dimensional garment, traditional craftsmanship, small-batch production, sculptural fashion, eco-conscious design
Production Technology: The design employs zero-waste cutting and an innovative pleating technique that utilizes localized fabric shrinkage to create organic, three-dimensional forms. Each pleat position is meticulously hand-fixed and mapped onto cardboard for small-batch production, ensuring precision and minimizing waste in the manufacturing process.
Design Challenge: The most challenging aspect of this project was balancing sustainability with structural innovation. Achieving precise pleat placement through fabric shrinkage required extensive testing, as different textiles reacted unpredictably. Additionally, sourcing ethically handwoven fabrics while maintaining production feasibility posed logistical challenges. Overcoming these obstacles involved iterative experimentation, collaboration with artisans, and refining techniques to ensure both aesthetic integrity and minimal waste.
Research: This research explores sustainable garment construction through fabric behavior analysis and zero-waste design. The objective was to develop an innovative pleating method that minimizes waste while enhancing three-dimensionality. Using an experimental approach, I tested localized fabric shrinkage and pleat fixation techniques, documenting results through draping, hand-marking, and pattern adjustments. Material tests were conducted to study fabric reactions, with findings informing a scalable, small-batch production model. The research promotes sustainability by reducing textile waste and preserving traditional weaving techniques.
Inspiration: The intersection of traditional craftsmanship and contemporary sustainability inspired the Shrink Pleat Minimal Waste Dress. I sought to challenge conventional garment construction by exploring fabric behavior through pleating and shrinkage techniques. Drawing from research on localized textile manipulation, I developed a method to create dynamic, sculptural forms while minimizing waste. This project reflects my commitment to preserving heritage weaving techniques.
Project Duration: This project was exhibited in Cave of the Day, Cave of the Night in Brooklyn, New York. It began in New York in 2013 and was completed in mid-2014 in New York.
Operation Flow: The Shrink Pleat Minimal Waste Dress transforms through a unique pleating method that shapes the fabric organically using controlled shrinkage. Instead of traditional cutting, the fabric naturally adjusts, creating sculptural folds that move with the body. Each pleat is carefully placed to enhance form and flexibility, offering comfort and structure. This approach reduces fabric waste while achieving a dynamic, flowing silhouette that feels effortless yet meticulously crafted.
Image Credits: Photographer Hao Zeng