Interview with Eleonora Federici

My parents used to take me to museums and important Italian cities since I was very young. My parents have always loved Art and History, and I was lucky enough to be born and live in the country that is the epitome of it in the world. From a young age I had a passion for drawing and painting, which I abandoned for a while during my time at the classical high school, because this course of study was, and still is, the most difficult in Italy. Classical studies helped me not only to appreciate the wonderful history of my country, but also to develop a great willpower, a sense of sacrifice and tenacity.
Then I studied Art and Literature at University. My parents had founded the "Marinone" jewelry shop in 1980, and since childhood I have taken part in this world. For me, an Art and Beauty lover, it was almost natural to take up that profession. And I, who have always had a penchant for perfection, could not enter the business without the proper preparation. So I decided to become a gemologist. I studied Gemology at the “Istituto Gemmologico Italiano,” of which I am now a member. Gemstones showed me that Nature can be a huge source of inspiration. Since my first days in my family Jewelry shop I could express myself creating unique, high-end jewels for our Customers.
For the last 18 years I have been developing my skills as a goldsmith, and I have learned wax modeling from one of the most talented jewelry modelers in Italy. Finally, I decided to complete my education with an eye on the future by taking a high-level course in CAD and CAM design in jewelry at the Gemological Institute of America: the most prestigious and important gemological institute in the world.
This is my background: for me, there is no difference between the intellectual ability to have an idea and the technical and practical ability to execute it. To me, having control over the entire creative and productive process is a sign of great professionalism.
I became a designer automatically and naturally, I cannot even call it a choice or a decision. It is something that comes from within and probably has to do with what my parents have taught me since I was a child. I was definitely born to be a designer.

The process begins with inspiration, then the idea develops in my mind, and I envision the final result. I start creating the model based on that vision, sometimes sketching it on paper or digitally using a graphics tablet. Before taking the Jewelry Design & Technology course at the Gemological Institute of America, I used to shape wax models by hand. Now, I create models directly in Rhinoceros 7 or ZBrush, which also allow me to produce stunning renderings. Interestingly, I find it easier to create the model directly than to draw it; my mind acts as my canvas. It's a bit like in the TV series The Queen's Gambit, where the main character visualizes chess pieces moving on their own, guiding her to victory. Sometimes, I make adjustments to ensure that a piece of jewelry is not only beautiful but also wearable.

The most exciting phase of the process is the initial idea and the first steps I take to start building the model. I feel the challenge of achieving perfection, and that makes me enthusiastic. I feel that each jewel I create is a part of me... like a child growing up and leaving home... When I am done with my work, I feel really satisfied and eager to create the next design. When I create I feel alive, it gives my life a meaning. It's like my soul and brain need it to survive. I think that without the ability to create, I would die.

I received an education characterized by seriousness, intellectual honesty, and respect for others. The course of study I took as a young person taught me sacrifice, dedication and perfectionism. All of this combined with an innate creativity has, in my opinion, created the necessary blend of qualities to be a great designer. One of the people who influenced me the most was my mother, with whom I worked for many years and who taught me a lot. Then, of course, my cultural background and open-mindedness, which is one of my main characteristics, helped me to develop my style and skills.

I have big plans. After launching my website, www.eleonorafedericijewelry.com, where you can order my pieces or contact me for custom-made jewelry, I started showcasing my creations in places like Lugano, Switzerland, and Monte Carlo. I've always dreamed of leaving a legacy, and now it's time to make that dream a reality—I've waited long enough. I want people to remember my name even 100 years from now. Am I thinking too big? Perhaps, but no one knew who Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel was when she started her company. I have a special piece of jewelry in mind, made up of various components that can be assembled and disassembled to create multiple pieces of jewelry, and can also be combined into a wearable object that transcends traditional definitions of jewelry.

Never surrender. Learn from everyone around you, but find you own way, your style. Sooner or later someone will believe in you!

To my fellow designers, artists, and architects, I suggest adhering to a few key principles that have contributed to my success. Firstly, prioritize quality and craftsmanship in every aspect of your work. Attention to detail and dedication to excellence will set you apart. Avoid the trap of complacency by continuously seeking inspiration and pushing your creative boundaries. Embrace criticism as a tool for growth; be open to feedback and constantly strive to improve. Additionally, cultivate strong relationships within the industry; networking and collaboration can lead to valuable opportunities. Remember to stay true to your vision and values, even in the face of challenges or trends. Finally, never stop learning; stay informed about emerging technologies, materials, and design trends to remain relevant in a constantly evolving field.

Milk and coffee with some cookies as soon as I wake up, then I work all day (in my jewelry shop projecting new models). I go for a run, or do Pilates at least 4 times a week (if possible!). I like cooking in my free time (I am really fond of making pastries), which I usually do during the week-ends. When I can, I go to Tuscany where my father was born, and take long hikes up in the mountains and in the fall, we usually go together searching for mushrooms. Those moments are fundamental for relaxation and they give my brain renewed energy so I can have new ideas for my jewels.

I do not tend to follow fashion trends, preferring to stick to my own personal style and ideas. But at the same time I think that as an artist I am obviously and unintentionally influenced by everything that happens around me…

First of all a good design never goes out of fashion. That means that it will always be beautiful, wearable, useful.

That’s the easy part: I am so picky and meticulous that it’s ready when it’s perfect.

"The Hummingbird" is undoubtedly the project that has given me the greatest satisfaction. It not only perfectly embodied what I aimed to represent—symbolizing the coexistence of humans and fragile, endangered species—but it also had all the qualities I seek in a piece of jewelry. It captures the essence of my brand as "wearable art" and even won an A' Design Award!
Still, I truly love each and every one of my creations; they are all unique expressions of my vision and passion.

There are many artists in many fields that have changed the history of art, fashion, architecture, etc. that I admire: Frank Lloyd Wright, Mary Quant, Rinaldo Gavello, Marc Jacobs... and they are not the only ones.

My cultural background has a great influence on who I am today and on my designs. Classical studies, the good fortune of living in Italy, a degree in gemology, and a family-owned jewelry shop in business for 42 years have all contributed. Good design is necessary for the progress of society...there is no doubt about it.
Design is Art. And Art is progress: history has taught us that. Today's world would have no heritage without the great designers of the past, just think of Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Donatello, Brunelleschi, Van Gogh, Matisse, Rodin... and the list is endless!

My work culture and business philosophy are rooted in a deep commitment to creating timeless, meaningful pieces that transcend traditional jewelry and become "wearable art".
As I aim to leave a lasting legacy with my work, every piece I create, whether it’s a complex, multifaceted project or a ring that I carved by hand over months, must be a unique expressions of my vision and passion.

As a designer, I believe that creativity should have a positive impact beyond just aesthetics. My work often emphasizes themes like the coexistence of humans and endangered species or celebrates diverse cultures. This reflects my desire to raise awareness through my art.
Giving back to the community is important to me. I’m open to pro bono work, especially for causes that align with my values, and I strongly believe in the role of designers and artists in humanitarian efforts—our creativity can be a force for change. I am also eager to participate in design events and conferences, offering guidance and sharing my experiences, or even teaching in a design school. To me, good design is about creating something timeless and meaningful, and I hope to inspire the next generation to pursue that same passion.

Participating in design competitions and awards is essential because you will be challenged to create something new, and your skills, imagination, and technical abilities will be stretched to the limit. You feel the challenge to be the best. Needless to say, it's a great opportunity to be recognized and opens the door to a successful future. I am truly honored and proud to have been chosen as Designer of the Day.

It is a need I have always had to create something new. To be creative (to be a designer) is to feel alive, to give meaning to your life and to be constantly stimulated. I think without the ability to create, I would die. Why did I become a designer? Because I was born a designer.

I became a designer automatically and naturally, I cannot even call it a choice.
It is something that comes from within and probably has to do with what my parents have taught me since I was a child. I was definitely born to be a designer, I don’t think it's something you can learn, let alone be forced to be!

I’m always inspired by Art and Nature.

I am far from being a legend. To be a legend, you have to create pieces that everyone dreams of, that speak for you, and that when people they see them, they think: "These are Eleonora Federici's jewels!" I think that young designers who want to become a legend must never give up, believe in themselves, work hard and be professional. And above all, do not stop dreaming.

A great designer is different from a good designer in that he/she is able to have a recognizable style that stands out and cannot be confused with anything else on the market.

In my opinion, a good design never goes out of fashion. That means it will always be beautiful, wearable and useful.

Design is Art. And Art is progress: history has taught us that. Today's world would have no heritage without the great designers of the past, just think of Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Donatello, Brunelleschi, Van Gogh, Matisse, Rodin... and the list is endless!

I would love to design high-end jewelry for one of the big fashion houses like Louis Vuitton or one of the big jewelry houses like De Grisogono. I am sure I can design fascinating collections that convey the soul of the house.

I have in mind a piece of jewelry that is made up of different parts that can be put together and taken apart to create several different pieces of jewelry, and that can also be put together to create a wearable object, but that is no longer a piece of jewelry in the strict sense.

It's hard to say... my parents taught me to be humble, but I think that the secret ingredient is simply talent. And not setting limits to your creativity and imagination.

There are many artists in many fields that have changed the history of art, fashion, architecture, etc. that I admire: Frank Lloyd Wright, Mary Quant, Rinaldo Gavello, Marc Jacobs... and they are not the only ones.

Since I love all my designs, I cannot really choose one over all the others. But "The Hummingbird" has a special meaning for me because this is where I really started to understand what my potential is, and it led me to enter and win an A'Design Award (one of the most prestigious international design awards). It's a great design because it has all the qualities that I think are fundamental to a quality piece of jewelry: the curved and elegant shapes, the color, and the fact that it's unique and inimitable.

If I were to share some insights from my journey, it'd start with this: always prioritize top-notch quality and craftsmanship. Paying attention to the details really makes a difference. And don't get too comfortable: keep pushing yourself creatively and seeking new inspiration.
Embrace criticism, it is essential for growth. Stay true to yourself, though. Trends come and go, but your unique vision and values are what set you apart. Keep learning, because the design world evolves quickly, so stay curious and keep up with the latest trends. Stay open to feedback and never stop refining your skills.

I would have definitely stayed in the field of art, I would have had a creative job for sure. For a while in high school I was going to be an architect, then I was going to be an art conservator. Who knows?

Design is the ultimate frontier of art, it is what enables people to bring forth new ideas, new objects, new concepts. Design is research, beauty, poetry, emotion, progress.

My greatest supporter was myself. And I think that's the secret of success: you have to believe in yourself. And my family, which has always been proud of me and believed in my abilities and skills.

My innate creativity, my meticulousness and a strong sense of duty.

The real obstacle for me is that it is sometimes difficult to be understood and appreciated. That is why "creativity needs courage", as Henri Matisse said.
Then it was a challenge to learn the new technologies (CAD / CAM) after working so many years with the traditional methods and tools. But with my strong will I was able to master them, and now I have a powerful, exciting tool in my hand.

The perfect containers are competitions, exhibitions and special industry fairs.

I am already working on new projects, unique, high quality jewels that will allow me to fully express my creativity while creating a unique piece for those who want to wear and show their uniqueness.

I would love to be the front woman of a famous jewelry house, like Lucia Silvestri, the Jewelry Creative Director of Bvlgari.

They expect unique pieces that best express the facets of their personality and tastes, in order to stand out from "mass-produced" products and have something personalized.

Create new styles that make people live closer to nature and raise awareness of the most important issues for a better world: Peace, preservation of endangered species, respect for nature. This seems trivial, but if the world continues to be blind to these issues, I don't know if humanity will really have a future.

I am working on some new exclusive jewelry pieces that represent my vision of the world and jewelry.

The Hummingbird is definitely the project that gave me the biggest satisfaction: not only did it embody exactly what I wanted to represent (symbolize the coexistence of humans and fragile, endangered species), but it had all the characteristics I look for in a jewel.

More openness to new designers and new talents, who can make their own contribution to the graceful fashion and jewelry companies.

I believe that the world of collaborations is one of the most interesting aspects today, allowing you to blend heritage and vision of the future, combining different DNAs to arrive at new creative ideas.

It depends on the project…sometimes few days, sometimes weeks or months.

Sometimes I start with a sketch on my IPad. Sometimes my mind is my canvas: then I try to memorize the idea and start developing it just imagining it in my head. Have you ever seen the TV show "The Queen's Gambit"? She was literally able to see the chess move themselves on the ceiling... I can see the shapes and colors flowing in my head...

It is Henri Matisse’s motto: “creativity takes courage”.

I think that art is not subject to trends, but that the creation of unique and timeless objects is the ultimate goal.

Technology is a great friend of creativity because it allows you to see objects in 3D and to modify them without wasting materials. In this sense, I am sure that this is the way to a more sustainable approach, without any waste.

I use CAD software like Rhinoceros7, sculpting software like Z-brush, sketching software like Sketchbook. I still love and use the traditional wax carving method and all the tools associated with it.

These are certainly the three variables that have the most influence in the realization of a project and that, when combined in different ways, can really make a difference.

I would like them to ask: “how did you come up with this idea?”, “Why do you feel the need to create?”

I think: "I want to buy it!!!". If I were rich, I would spend a lot of money on beautiful design products...and everyone should! It is like being a patron of a talented artist. Would we have the Cappella Sistina in Rome if the Pope at the time had not been Michelangelo Buonarroti's patron (and that is just one of thousands of examples)?

My ideal partner would be smart, skilled and talented. Probably younger than me so I can compare ideas and have new and fresh inspiration and ideas. I believe in co-design because I always listen to others: multiple points of view are always better than one. And you always, always have something to learn from everybody (that's how my mom taught me).

Understanding the needs of the customers of my family's shop is certainly a very practical starting point for new inspirations. Secondly, I love to see the jewels worn by celebrities on important red carpets like that of the Cannes or Venice film festivals or the MET Gala.
But also a person I meet on the street wearing something special can trigger a whirlwind of ideas in my head!

None. I really try to be inspired by everything around me and not imitate anyone.

Training, training, training!

Marina Abramović, Maria Callas, Gianni Agnelli, Elizabeth Taylor, Pablo Picasso

Seeing your work recognized is certainly a good feeling and gives you the strength and courage to continue along this path. It certainly can't be said that I'm famous today, but I'm working on it!

I love all bright colors, Pontremoli in Tuscany, spring, my own creation “Fire” Ring (with a rare big mouthwatering orange tourmaline). I am not really fond of just one brand: it really depends on the Creative Director.

Looking around me every day, being grateful for everything that surrounds me and having the opportunity to see through my eyes all this beauty and somehow be able to make it "mine".

I think it was: I was crazy! When we went to my grandmother's house in the country, in the middle of winter I would dive into the chicken bowl of water with all my clothes on (you can imagine how happy my mother was!). I also liked to eat soil and rose petals... My parents had to tie the dresser drawers in the house with rope to prevent me from building a ladder to throw myself down! And I loved to color with crayons... I used tons of paper and paints as a kid!

This is very difficult to predict. The world is changing very quickly, especially after the technological revolution.

I am a person in love with life and nature. In addition to my work as a jewelry designer, I love to cook and prepare something special for the people I love. I think these aspects are the ones that characterize me the most.

My family jewelry shop has been in business for 44 years, and always focused on high quality products and design. Offering every kind of service, from repairing and refurbishing old jewels to creating from scratch new ones, I gained through the years a huge experince in designing, blueprinting and manufacturing. That is why I decided to create my own brand Eleonora Federici Jewelry, that focuses on marvellous, unique designs and custom made pieces. Reliability, honesty and high professionalism are the main characteristics of my company.

Design is the ultimate frontier of art, it is what allows people to bring new ideas, objects, and concepts to life. Design is about research, beauty, poetry, emotion, and progress.
As a jewelry designer, I strive to make the world a better place by conveying subtle messages through my wearable art pieces. I create jewelry that not only serves as a form of expression but also stands the test of time, carrying with it the memories and legacy of a family for generations.

Jewels, of any kind!

One of my fist pieces was a semi-rigid yellow gold necklace with a cluster of orange, yellow and red briolette cut Sapphires. This piece was uniquely created and was the first of its kind and this style predated the similar collections of a famous Fashion House presented only 10 years later.

My favorite material is yellow and pink gold. I love both the traditional wax hand carving method and CAD softwares like Rhinoceros 8, Z-brush.

When I have an inspiration, and it happens all the time and in any place. I always try to be receptive. Basically, my mind is always open to new sources of inspiration.

Shape and movement. A piece has always to be elegant and perfect.

I feel that every jewel I am creating is part of me… like a child who grows up and leaves home…I feel the challenge of achieving perfection, and that makes me enthusiastic and eager to create the next design.

I feel that every jewel that I have ever made is like a child to me, I feel complete, excited and enthusiastic and truly accomplished.

A successful design is defined by its beauty, wearability, and timelessness.

When judging a design, the first aspect I consider is its timelessness—a good design never goes out of fashion. It remains beautiful, wearable, and functional over time. Additionally, balance and elegance are crucial, even in more extreme designs.

Create new styles that make people live more close to nature and raise awareness of the most important issues for a better world: Peace, respect for ech other, preservation of endangered species, respect for nature. This seems trivial, but if the world continues to be blind to these issues, I don't know if humanity will really have a future.

My single earring "The Hummingbird" has been showcased in several international locations. Now, it is time for my ring "Kashmir" to receive the same recognition. However, I believe the best exhibition is when one of my clients wears them!

Inspiration is all around me. My Muses are often gemstones, Nature in general and pieces of Art.

Design has no limits. That is why I don’t want to enclose myself in just one style. I am eclectic. But movement, sensuality and balance are for sure one of the main characteristics of my designs.

I live in Italy. I think that any other comment is unnecessary!

Companies should select a designer who is not only eager to create and grow but also aligned with the vision of the brand. It's equally important to give the designer as much creative freedom as possible, as placing too many constraints can stifle creativity.

The inspiration is like a lightning, then the idea starts developing in my head and I have the 3D vision of the final result. Then I start creating the model following this image, sometimes making some changes in order to obtain a jewel that has to be not just beautiful, but also wearable.

The “Pirce” chandelier by the italian brand Artemide, the pendulum clock “La Tour” by L’Epée, a statue by the artist Luca Bossaglia, a portrait of myself by the artist Stefano Bressani.

Milk and coffee with some cookies as soon as I wake up, then I work all day. I go for a run, or do Pilates at least 4 times a week (if possible!). I like cooking in my free time (I am really fond of making pastries), which I usually do during the week-ends. When I can, I go to Tuscany where my father was born, and take long hikes up in the mountains and in the fall, we usually went together searching for mushrooms. Those moments are fundamental for relaxation and they give my brain renewed energy so I can have new ideas for my jewels.

Never surrender. Sooner or later someone will believe in you!

The only negative is that sometimes it is hard to be understood and appreciated. That is why “creativity takes courage”, as H. Matisse said.

Being brave. Being yourself.Create something truly new each time: astonishing, unique, unforgettable.

Willfulness, scrupulousness, courage and having no boundaries for your imagination.

My mind is my canvas. I use the traditional bench jeweler tools, CAD software (Rhinoceros 8), sculpting software (Z-Brush). I like going directly from the ideas in my mind to the creation of the model.

I work tirelessly until I have obtained what I want.

It depends on the project…sometimes few hours, sometimes weeks or months.

How can you have so many different ideas?

Everytime I build a new jewel, from the inception throught the all production process...because every time is a journey where you live the birth of your own creation, yopu improven and learn.

I cannot disclose specific names...

Every time I undertake the process of crafting a new piece of jewelry. From its conceptualization to its completion through the production process, each occasion feels like a profound journey, where I witness the birth of my own creation, I improve and learn.

I want the world to see my jewels, so I am moving forward to get international Customers.

I like to work alone, but I also like to work with smart, skilled and talented people. I always listen to others, because multiple points of view are always better than one. And you always, always have something to learn from everybody (as my Mother taught me).

Yes, I certainly do...but I would like it to be a surprise for the next design competition!

They can contact me through my website eleonorafedericijewelry.com, or through my Instagram account eleonorafedericijewelry. They can also e-mail me at info.efjewelry@gmail.com

I am looking for the opportunity to express myself and I think I could be a great resource for Jewelry Houses who are searching for a Designer eager to create and to make a difference. Whoever is going to choose me, will not regret their choice because I am strong willing, loyal and a meticulous hard worker.