Ataraxia Skartgripasafn by Yilan Liu is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2020 A' Design Award í gulli in Skartgripahönnun Competition Category.

GullSkartgripir· 2020

Ataraxia Skartgripasafn

by Yilan Liu

Client: Yilan Jewelry

A' Design Award í gulli Winner in Skartgripir Category

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Colors

The Design

About Ataraxia Skartgripasafn

Samanlagt með tísku og háþróaðri tækni miðar verkefnið að því að búa til skartgripaverk sem geta gert gömlu gotnesku þættina í nýjan stíl og rætt um möguleika hins hefðbundna í samtímanum. Með áhuga á því hvernig Gothic vibes hefur áhrif á áhorfendur reynir verkefnið að vekja upp einstaka einstaka upplifun með fjörugum samskiptum og kanna tengsl hönnunar og notenda. Tilbúinn gimsteinn, sem lægri umhverfismerkt efni, var skorinn í óvenju flata fleti til að varpa litum sínum á húðina til að auka samspilið.

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award í gulli

Ataraxia Skartgripasafn vann A' Design Award í gulli, óendanlega virta viðurkenningu sem veitt er fyrsta flokks, dásamlegum og framúrskarandi hönnunarverkum. Sigurvegarar í gulli eru afar nýstárleg, framsýn og töfrandi glæsileg sköpunarverk sem endurspegla snilld, visku og hæfni hönnuða sinna. Þess er vænst að Ataraxia Skartgripasafn sé mjög lofuð, brautryðjandi og stórfengleg uppfinning sem skilar fordæmislausu virði. Þetta hönnunarverk sem vann A' Design Award í gulli er stórbrotið, virt verkefni sem gagnast mörkum listar, vísinda, hönnunar og tækni mjög vel og færir þau fram á við. Ataraxia Skartgripasafn skapar sterkar þráartilfinningar, vekur ástríðu, hvetur til sköpunar og heillar okkur.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: Inspired by Gothic architecture, the collection encapsulates the sublime internal atmosphere, exploiting Gothic structural details to stimulate the particular feelings and explore emotional experience. Synthetic gemstones, as a lower eco-imprint material, were cut into unusually flat surfaces to cast their colors onto the skin to enhance the vibe. Immersive exploration of the precious culture is encouraged by the collection. The jewelry acts as a media to provoke unique individual experience. The design challenged the production to realize all the details to achieve the final result.
Dimensions & Packaging: Ring No.1: 41mm x 18mm x 30mm;
Ring No.2: 28mm x 28mm x 36mm;
Bangle: 75mm x 75mm x 22mm;
Earring: 21mm x 59mm x 8mm
Tags: jewelry, ring, bangle, earring, Gothic architecture, culture, emotional experience, eco-friendly, interaction, synthetic gemstones
Production Technology: The production lasted about one month including wax curving, casting, stone cutting, model modification, stone setting, metal finishing and gold plating. Some design details were adjusted during this process. The materials are synthetic gemstones including cubic zirconia, synthetic spinel and synthetic ruby which were cut into usually flat surfaces. For the metal part, the material is goldplated silver.
Design Challenge: The challenge was to realize all the design details to achieve the best result. There were many details in the design which made it difficult to well polish all the corners without damaging. After several experiments, I finally chose sand blasting as the main metal finishing which combined with full polish of the top faces of the settings, ensuring all the details as well as giving the collection a feel of flexibility. Also, the stone cutting process went through a lot of experiments to decide the thickness to gain the best effect.
Research: The research concentrated on Gothic culture and the purchasing behavior of customers towards contemporary jewelry from books, journals, online articles and relevant market data. The research showed the potential of making the old into the new in the perspectives of market and technology. Besides, the case studies were given on market, trend and manufacture with online research and interviews, as first-hand investigations underscoring the value of the project. All the research promoted the development of the project and completed the project in the academic way.
Inspiration: The collection was inspired by ancient Gothic architecture. This traditional style is fading with time, but it can be reborn in a new way with jewelry. Combining with fashion and advanced technology, the project aims to create jewelry pieces which can make the old into a new style, discussing the potential of the traditional in the contemporary context. With the interest in the way how the Gothic vibe influences audience and based on the vast research on Gothic culture, the project also tries to provoke unique individual experience through playful interaction, exploring the relationship between design and wearers.
Project Duration: The project started in October 2017 in London and finished in May 2019 in London, and was exhibited in Central Saint Martins Degree Show in June 2019 and was awarded as Distinction. The production was finished in China.
Operation Flow: The designs were inspired from Gothic architecture. Wearers will be easily attracted by its amazing appearance with elegant details. The pieces combine the old with the new, explaining the traditional culture with contemporary fashion language. When wearing the jewelry, the beautiful lines flow with the body, the bright colors cast onto the skin, creating a poetic experience for individuals. It is jewelry, but more than jewelry. It is a combination of culture, aesthetic, fashion and emotion.
Image Credits: #1, 2, 3, 4, 5: Photographer Xiaowu Yu, 2019