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Sarah リング by Anna-Reetta Vaananen

Sarah リング by Anna-Reetta Vaananen is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2022 A' Design Award 銅賞 in ジュエリーデザイン Competition Category.


銅ジュエリー· 2022

Sarah リング

by Anna-Reetta Vaananen

Client: Anna's Darling

A' Design Award 銅賞 Winner in ジュエリー Category

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Verified Award Winner

Verify Award Status for #134855

Colors

The Design

About Sarah リング

「サラ」は、シャクヤクの園芸品種と、その名の由来となった女優サラ・ベルナールに着想を得たゴールドリングです。このリングは、花そのもののように、堅牢さと繊細さを同時に併せ持ち、見る角度によって表情を変えます。サラは、リサイクルされた585イエローゴールドを用い、ロストワックス鋳造と金工の板金技法によって制作されています。花びらの層は、溶かしたワックスを鉄球の工具に滴下して形づくり、その後ゴールドで鋳造・研磨し、わずかなろう付けのみで金線と接合しました。このデザインは、身に着けられるジュエリーとアートを融合させています。

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award 銅賞

Sarah リングは、創造性、独創性、鋭い洞察力で際立つ傑出したデザインに授与される、高い権威をもつ評価である A' Design Award 銅賞の受賞作品です。銅賞の受賞作品は、十分に巧みで印象的なほど創造的な工芸品であり、デザイナーの豊富な経験、想像力、機知を裏づけています。Sarah リングは、高く評価され、称賛され、愛される品であり、顕著にプロフェッショナルで革新的であることが期待されます。この A' Design Award 銅賞を受賞したデザインは、芸術・科学・デザイン・技術のベストプラクティスを取り入れており、細部への配慮に優れています。Sarah リングは、ニーズを見事に満たし、欲求に触れ、感情を魅了し、好奇心を引きつけます。

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties
Sarah ring is made from gold with lost wax casting and goldsmith plate techniques. The ring is massive and fragile at the same time. Sarah jewelry has been inspired by peony and the very first superstar Sarah Bernhard. This design is unique combination of good usability and art jewelry at the same time. From each angle it is different and gives an impression of hand made artefact and unique piece of art.
Dimensions & Packaging
Material 585 yellow gold
Size of the flower 21 mm x 14 mm
Width of the ring 4 mm
Size of the ring varies.
Weight of the ring 19 g in ring size 17.
Tags
ring, goldring, flowerjewelry, peony, sarahbernhard, lostwaxcasting
Production Technology
Sarah ring is made with lost wax casting and goldsmith plate techniques from recycled 585 yellow gold. Original flower pieces were made by melting wax and forming the flower pieces drop by drop on top of an iron sphere. The ring part is made from gold plate by hand. After casting the wax made flower pieces it was all joined together with supporting and visual adding gold wire with only three solders.
Design Challenge
In this Sarah design process were used scketching and model making techniques before moving in to experimental form giving. The biggest challenge was to create something new that does not only imitate nature and flower but expresses the desired character of nature, human being and a time era. These all were to adapt in to wearable and beautiful jewelry.
Research
For the Sarah project background was to gather visual material about the peony flower construction and appearance. The flower character was as important as the actress Sarah Bernhard who had given her name to this one particular peony. To accomplish this final ring form there were movies to watch, Muchas posters to see and peony blossoms to tear down. The biggest insight was to create more than nature had given in to a usable and pretentious ring.
Inspiration
Sarah design project started from the love towards gardens beauties sarah bernhard peonies that are multilayered lush and fragile. Peony got its name from the worlds first superstar Sarah Bernhard. This actress and courtesan has given her face to a nature inspired Art Nouveau period by artist Alphonse Muchas paintbrush. This one particular peony cultivar has also been named after her perhaps because of their look alike in looks and in essence. Sarah ring embodies them both woman and the flower.
Project Duration
Project started in July 2020 and finished in June 2021, and was exhibited in June 2021 in Sonkajarvi Finland.
Operation Flow
Challenge was to make original and interesting design. Sarah form giving started with molding wax sheets and adding melted wax on a sphere tool. Wax models were lost wax casted in to gold and then best forms for the flower part were chosen. Casted gold layers were grinded polishes and soldered together with one gold wire. Parts were elevated from each other with slugs to lift the flower layers and make it lively and light. The design is made so there would be as little solders as possible.
Patents
All right belong to Anna-Reetta Väänänen, Anna's Darling Ky, Sonkajärvi, Finland
Image Credits
Image #1: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Image #2: Photographer Elina Manninen, Model Johanna Nordblad, 2021
Image #3: Photographer Elina Manninen, Model Johanna Nordblad, 2021
Image #4: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Image #5: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Video Credits: Valtteri Kantanen, 2021

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