Random Puff Sandhangan Sulaman 4D by Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin

Random Puff Sandhangan Sulaman 4D by Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2023 A' Design Award Wesi in Desain Tekstil, Kain, Tekstur, Pola lan Sandhangan Competition Category.

WesiTekstil· 2023

Random Puff Sandhangan Sulaman 4D

by Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin

Client: MIT Media Lab

A' Design Award Wesi Winner in Tekstil Category

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Verified Award Winner

Verify Award Status for #145286

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Colors

The Design

About Random Puff Sandhangan Sulaman 4D

RandomPuff minangka puffer novel sing nggunakake puff sulaman 4D kanggo insulasi sandhangan. Puffs pisanan digawe warata lan pop munggah menyang domes nalika kapapar panas. Puffs sing diaktifake njeblug hawa ing antarane lingkungan njaba lan sing nganggo supaya awak tetep anget. Pangembangan kasebut kalebu nggawe perpustakaan interaksi bahan sulaman 4D antarane 'serat aktif' lan 'kain statis'. Desainer lan pangembang bisa nggunakake piranti desain komputasi kanggo makarya bebarengan karo pangguna pungkasan, nggawe tekstil novel lan desain softgood sing fashion teknologi dhuwur, pribadi lan sustainable.

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award Wesi

Random Puff Sandhangan Sulaman 4D menang A' Design Award Wesi, pangenalan sing prestisius sing diparingake marang desain sing apik sing nyukupi kabutuhan profesional lan industri sing dikarepake saka ciptaan sing dirancang kanthi apik. Pemenang Wesi nuduhake katrampilan sing gedhe, spesialisasi sing dhuwur, pangerten ahli lan kapasitas kreatif para penciptane. Random Puff Sandhangan Sulaman 4D dikarepake dadi ciptaan sing dihargai banget, dikagumi lan ditresnani sing praktis lan inovatif. Desain sing menang A' Design Award Wesi iki nggabungake praktik industri sing paling apik lan nduweni ciri teknis sing kompeten sing disambung karo kawruh lan bakat. Random Puff Sandhangan Sulaman 4D diajeni amarga ketelitiane lan dirancang kanggo nyedhiyakake paningkatan kualitas urip sing mbiyantu ndadekake donya panggonan sing luwih apik.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: Random Puff is a garment application leveraging the puffy transformation that traps air within the dome pocket to keep the body warm. The double curvature geometry becomes easily fabricated, and personalizable styling is available through the computational design process, which opens up a new design/manufacturing space for a puffy garment.
Dimensions & Packaging: 500mm x 30mm x 700mm. However, since it's a garment, it can be fold into the size of 300mm x 20mm x 200mm.
Tags: 4D embroidery
Production Technology: Heat-shrink thread. Neoprene. Machine embroidery. Processing visualizer.
Design Challenge: First, the force balance between active thread and static fabric is a fundamental challenge. There is too much fabric out there with labeled information that does not necessarily lead to our purpose. Second, tension issues happen when new threads or fabric are introduced to the machine. It takes a while to calibrate, and sometimes break the machine if the thread is too thick/thin, or the fabric is too thick/slippery/crispy. Third, to achieve the maximized bi-layer bending, we want to vary the force on both sides so that the inner side does not constraint the outer side.
Research: Research background:
This research demonstrates how machine embroidery with heat-shrinking fibers enables existing fabrics to be augmented with morphing fibers.

Methods/Tools:
Similar to sewing, embroidery is a technique of interlacing upper and bottom threads with the substrate in between, but digitally. For the hardware, a desktop, hobbyist embroidery machine can easily execute wanted samples. For the software, I mainly explored PEmbroidery and Inkstitch for different purposes. PEmbroider is an open-source library housed in Processing that offers a procedural coding environment to generate detailed embroidered files at point and line levels. Inkstitch is also an open-source plug-in embedded in Inkscape that provides a graphical user interface, which is more friendly for primary users.

Results/Insight:
I started off the material characterization by testing different substrates with the same embroidery parameters. Out of 10+ fabrics, fabrics that are lightweight with high springness can hold the morphed structure better. A series of embroidery parameters were also tested systematically with stroke width, density, peak-to-peak distance, stitch spacing, and threading material. The fiber actuator can be tuned from crease(low res) to bend(high res) in a linear pattern. The fiber can be arranged in curves, origami creases, or arbitrary shapes to form more complex pop-up geometry.
Inspiration: Working at a NIKE shoe industry, I realized the challenge of transformation between 3D to 2D or vice versa. There's still no clear solution for the tedious, laborious, wasteful process from prototyping to production.

Working as a R&D at a carbon fiber company, I got to witness the power of machine embroidery, where it can digitally place fibers. This way, it can reinforce the artifact in any direction, replace the lamination thus reducing the material waste, and digitalize the process from start to end.
Project Duration: The project started in September 2021 and finished in December 2021 in Cambridge, MA, United States.
Operation Flow: First, a closed-curve set of circles, squares, or other arbitrary shapes is generated within the area of a 2D clothing. Second, the design file will be translated to an embroidery file via Processing, a visual output, and procedural coding environment. Third, upload the file to a desktop hobbyist embroidery machine and start embroidery. Lastly, the garment comes out flat from the machine and users can customize where to activate the puffs by heating the embroidery pattern with a steamer or iron.
Team Members: Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin
Skylar Tibbits
Jack Forman
Hiroshi Ishii
Image Credits: All IP, copyright, images, video credits belong to Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin.