Reinterpretation Of Changshan Aselsa sɣur Tong Tong

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Aselsa sɣur Tong Tong d anerbaz yettwaqadren meqqren n 2024 Tarbaḥt A' Design Award n Lbrunz deg Taggayt n Tnaflit n Afeṣṣel n Tmuḍa, Iselsa d Iceṭṭiḍen.

LbrunzTamuḍa· 2024

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Aselsa

sɣur Tong Tong

Anerbaz n Tarbaḥt A' Design Award n Lbrunz deg Taggayt n Tamuḍa

93,463

Anerbaz n Urraz Yettwasenqden

Senqed Addad n Urraz i #159036

Wali deg A' Design Award Tabḍert n tɣamsa Tanecḍa n wammud

Initen

Afeṣṣel

Ɣef Reinterpretation Of Changshan Aselsa

Asnefru-agi isseɛzaz taɣect tamagdudt n Changshan, d aselsa aẓuran acinwa n yergazen yettwaqadaren. S usekker n talɣa-s taceṭṭiḥt, asefser-agi amaynut yesmezdi s tamanegt aẓar d usnulfu. Tidrisin tibeddiyin akked yifukal yeddukklen s tuffra ssufuɣen-d tawuri deg usseɣti n tesɣent. Yettwaxdem s twilin n tuzemt s uzenzir ɣezzifen, yettmuddu asengad asnudman akked yir-as tirza mebla tkelxiwin. S tarrayin tilemmsin n usegger, yettwaffer wugur n ussfaɣ amaynut n umgerrad deg uḍman n izegwan ilemnin akked tɣellist tasnudemt.

Asmekti

Ɣef Tarbaḥt A' Design Award n Lbrunz

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Aselsa d amerbaḥ n Tarbaḥt A' Design Award n Lbrunz, tagmat ɛlayen i yisnulfa yelhan, yeṭṭafaren tinawt, tamusni d tezmert. Imerbaḥen n Lbrunz d isnulfa yelhan, ttbanen d timusniwin n tmusni n yimahilen-nsen. Reinterpretation Of Changshan Aselsa ad yili d asnulfu yettwaɛezzen, yelhan, amaynut. Reinterpretation Of Changshan Aselsa yettemlil ɣef yimawlan, yettwaɛezzen s tmahilt-is.

Deffir n ufeṣṣel

Tagrurt n tɣamsa

Ismawen n terbaɛt, iferdisen itiknikanen akked telɣut i d-yefka umeṣṣufeɣ.

Taɣara Tasuft: While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
Tigejdiwin & Akemmus: Full-body Length
Tibzimin: Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
Tasnakta n Ufares: A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
Asewḥel n Usnulfu: The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
Anadi: Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
Aseḥbiber: This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
Tanzagt n Usenfar: This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
Tanila n Umahil: The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
Igmamen n Terbaɛt: Tong Tong
Imsuren n Tugniwin: Image #1-5 Photographer：Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023