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Catalina Paladi의 Turquerie 여성복 컬렉션

디자이너 Catalina Paladi의 작품 Turquerie 여성복 컬렉션은(는) 매우 권위 있는 2021 A' Design Award 은상의 패션, 의류 및 의복 디자인 부문에서 탁월한 수상작입니다.


은패션· 2021

Turquerie 여성복 컬렉션

디자이너: Catalina Paladi

클라이언트: Catalina Paladi

패션 부문 A' Design Award 은상 수상작

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색상

디자인

Turquerie 여성복 컬렉션 소개

튀르크리(Turquerie)는 오스만 제국의 시각 문화에서 영감을 받은 여성복 컬렉션이다. 이 컬렉션은 여섯 가지 실루엣과 열 벌의 맞춤 제작 의상으로 구성되며, 사이즈는 엑스트라 스몰부터 미디엄까지 제공된다. 자카드, 벨벳, 시폰과 같은 고급 소재가 색상 대비와 유연한 흐름을 만들어내며, 단순한 형태와 정갈한 현대적 라인을 한층 풍성하게 한다. 밀도와 투명도가 서로 다른 원단을 겹쳐 쌓고 스타일리시하게 변형한 소매와 러플을 더해 의상에 움직임의 감각을 부여했다. 원단이 섬세한 만큼 많은 부분의 바느질은 손으로 이루어졌다.

수상 인정

A' Design Award 은상 소개

Turquerie 여성복 컬렉션, 이 작품은 A' Design Award 은상 수상작으로, 최상급이며 아름답고 인상적인 디자인에 수여되는 비범하게 권위 있는 인정입니다. 은상 수상작은 대단히 뛰어나고 매우 창의적인 작품으로, 디자이너의 탁월한 전문 지식, 재능, 통찰력을 보여 줍니다. Turquerie 여성복 컬렉션, 이 작품은 훌륭한 대표작으로서 매우 전문적이고 깊이 있게 혁신적일 것으로 기대됩니다. 이 은상 수상 디자인은 예술, 과학, 디자인, 기술의 경계를 넓히는 데 이바지하는 주목할 만하고 찬사를 받는 발명품입니다. Turquerie 여성복 컬렉션, 이 작품은 모두가 부러워하는 창작물로서 욕망을 일깨우고 긍정적인 감정을 불러오며 경탄과 경이로움을 불러일으킵니다.

디자인 비하인드

프레스 킷

디자이너가 제공한 크레딧, 팀원 및 기술 세부 사항.

고유 특성
Turquerie is a maximalist collection, dynamic, full of textile ornaments, colours, embellishments, accessories, jewelleries and other decorations, all intended to eloquently reflect the Ottoman influence sheltering a modern allure. Luxury materials such as jacquards, velvet, chiffon create both chromatic contrast and fluidity, furthermore enriching the simple shapes and the clean modern lines. Made of six silhouettes, it gives a wide range of outfits to choose from, for every occasion.
치수 및 패키징
The entire collection consists of 6 looks, 10 custom made pieces. Size XS to M.
태그
Turquerie, velvet, jacquard, chiffon, modern, classic, couture.
생산 기술
Due to the delicate nature of the fabrics, the collection has a lot of hand sewn stitches, approaching the old school techniques. It is composed of six silhouettes: 1. A modern velvet jumpsuit, 2. A classic velvet suit with jacquard vest with a mosque like ornament, 3. a jaquard tunic with chiffon layered sleeves, 4. a jaquard ornamented dress with a chiffon kaftan with ruffled sleeves, 5. A chiffon dress with a striped golden jacquard overcoat. 6. A chiffon maxi dress, with a long velvet vest.
디자인 과제
Some of the challenges that arose during the process were: 1) the volume of labour was daunting for one person (CAD pattern making, cutting and sewing the cotton mock-ups, cutting and sewing the final pieces, multiple fittings and alterations); 2) the gentle and delicate fabrics needed special care (plenty of stitches had been hand sewn: velvet ). 3)the project involved an extensive research part as well, since it served as final course work for the author's Textile Engineering Degree.
연구
The research focuses on the Ottoman Empire: the tolerance they displayed towards vasal nations, the social role they attributed to women, the majesty of their culture and their ability to embrace foreign influences in order to enrich their own culture. This inspired the author to find balance between her Moldovan roots and her addictive love towards other cultures. Still, it was a risky yet good decision to pin the Ottoman inspiration against a Moldovan ethnic background for the campaign shooting.
영감
The majestic Ottoman Empire served as inspiration for this collection. Tolerant ottoman politics implemented towards conquered territories resulted in a rich, colourful cultural life which upheld a harmonious interaction between the arts. Thus, a mix of byzantine, european and persan influences flourished in the turkish culture. The collection and its campaign illustrates both the refined esthetics of the Ottoman Empire and their open-minded approach to foreign cultures. Being shot in a folkloric Moldovan background, it emphasizes the importance of interaction between nations and encourages the viewer to open his heart to the multitude of the different cultures, since every person is a sum of the many peoples and nations that his ancestors had crossed. Evreyone has in his cells a richness of colour, energy and temper of so many unknown to him individuals who fill his genealogy up, people who had their joy and happiness, sufferings and burdens, but nevertheless, they had gifted the modern man a part of themselves.
프로젝트 기간
The project had begun in September 2016 and was completed in June 2017. It served as the final project for the Textile Engineering degree, part of the University graduation. The idea of placing the collection in the Moldovan rustic background for the campaign came in early 2020, whilst the shooting took place in September 2020.
운영 흐름
The collection dynamics are conveyed by the layering of fabrics which differ in density, opacity and colour. The dynamics are obtained by the stylization of the sleeves, which creates a rhythmic movement of flounces; different velvet textures; expressive jacquards and a playful dance of transparencies.
이미지 출처
Image #1, #2, #3, #4, #5
Photographer: Sergiu Rotaru, 2020
Styling: Corina Croitor
Model: Sabrina Danilova
Model: Valeria Untu
Model: Maria-Magdalena Cucu
Video credits: Corina Croitor
Video Montage: Selina Paladi

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