Sarah 반지 by Anna-Reetta Vaananen is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2022 A' Design Award 동상 in 주얼리 디자인 Competition Category.

동주얼리· 2022

Sarah 반지

by Anna-Reetta Vaananen

Client: Anna's Darling

A' Design Award 동상 Winner in 주얼리 Category

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Colors

The Design

About Sarah 반지

사라(Sarah)는 작약 품종과 그 이름의 유래가 된 배우 사라 베르나르에서 영감을 받은 금반지입니다. 이 반지는 꽃 자체와 마찬가지로 견고하면서도 섬세한 인상을 동시에 자아내며, 보는 각도에 따라 그 모습이 달라집니다. 사라는 재활용 585 옐로우 골드를 사용해 로스트 왁스 주조 기법과 금세공 판금 기법으로 제작되었습니다. 꽃잎 층은 녹인 왁스를 철제 구형 공구 위에 떨어뜨려 형태를 만든 뒤 금으로 주조하고 연마하여, 최소한의 땜질만으로 금선과 결합했습니다. 이 디자인은 착용 가능한 주얼리와 예술을 하나로 결합합니다.

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award 동상

Sarah 반지, 이 작품은 A' Design Award 동상 수상작으로, 창의성, 독창성, 영민함으로 돋보이는 뛰어난 디자인에 수여되는 높은 권위의 인정입니다. 동상 수상작은 충분히 숙련되고 인상적으로 창의적인 작품으로, 디자이너의 폭넓은 경험, 상상력, 기지를 입증합니다. Sarah 반지, 이 작품은 높이 평가받고 감탄과 사랑을 받는 사물로서 두드러지게 전문적이고 혁신적일 것으로 기대됩니다. 이 동상 수상 디자인은 예술, 과학, 디자인, 기술의 모범 사례를 담고 있으며 세부에 대한 주의로 훌륭합니다. Sarah 반지, 이 작품은 필요를 훌륭하게 충족하고 욕망에 닿으며 감정을 매료하고 호기심을 불러일으킵니다.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: Sarah ring is made from gold with lost wax casting and goldsmith plate techniques. The ring is massive and fragile at the same time. Sarah jewelry has been inspired by peony and the very first superstar Sarah Bernhard. This design is unique combination of good usability and art jewelry at the same time. From each angle it is different and gives an impression of hand made artefact and unique piece of art.
Dimensions & Packaging: Material 585 yellow gold
Size of the flower 21 mm x 14 mm
Width of the ring 4 mm
Size of the ring varies.
Weight of the ring 19 g in ring size 17.
Tags: ring, goldring, flowerjewelry, peony, sarahbernhard, lostwaxcasting
Production Technology: Sarah ring is made with lost wax casting and goldsmith plate techniques from recycled 585 yellow gold. Original flower pieces were made by melting wax and forming the flower pieces drop by drop on top of an iron sphere. The ring part is made from gold plate by hand. After casting the wax made flower pieces it was all joined together with supporting and visual adding gold wire with only three solders.
Design Challenge: In this Sarah design process were used scketching and model making techniques before moving in to experimental form giving. The biggest challenge was to create something new that does not only imitate nature and flower but expresses the desired character of nature, human being and a time era. These all were to adapt in to wearable and beautiful jewelry.
Research: For the Sarah project background was to gather visual material about the peony flower construction and appearance. The flower character was as important as the actress Sarah Bernhard who had given her name to this one particular peony. To accomplish this final ring form there were movies to watch, Muchas posters to see and peony blossoms to tear down. The biggest insight was to create more than nature had given in to a usable and pretentious ring.
Inspiration: Sarah design project started from the love towards gardens beauties sarah bernhard peonies that are multilayered lush and fragile. Peony got its name from the worlds first superstar Sarah Bernhard. This actress and courtesan has given her face to a nature inspired Art Nouveau period by artist Alphonse Muchas paintbrush. This one particular peony cultivar has also been named after her perhaps because of their look alike in looks and in essence. Sarah ring embodies them both woman and the flower.
Project Duration: Project started in July 2020 and finished in June 2021, and was exhibited in June 2021 in Sonkajarvi Finland.
Operation Flow: Challenge was to make original and interesting design. Sarah form giving started with molding wax sheets and adding melted wax on a sphere tool. Wax models were lost wax casted in to gold and then best forms for the flower part were chosen. Casted gold layers were grinded polishes and soldered together with one gold wire. Parts were elevated from each other with slugs to lift the flower layers and make it lively and light. The design is made so there would be as little solders as possible.
Patents: All right belong to Anna-Reetta Väänänen, Anna's Darling Ky, Sonkajärvi, Finland
Image Credits: Image #1: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Image #2: Photographer Elina Manninen, Model Johanna Nordblad, 2021
Image #3: Photographer Elina Manninen, Model Johanna Nordblad, 2021
Image #4: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Image #5: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Video Credits: Valtteri Kantanen, 2021