Random Puff 4D 자수 의류는 by Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin

Random Puff 4D 자수 의류는 by Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2023 A' Design Award 철상 in 텍스타일, 직물, 텍스처, 패턴 및 천 디자인 Competition Category.

철텍스타일· 2023

Random Puff 4D 자수 의류는

by Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin

Client: MIT Media Lab

A' Design Award 철상 Winner in 텍스타일 Category

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Verified Award Winner

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Colors

The Design

About Random Puff 4D 자수 의류는

랜덤퍼프(RandomPuff)는 4D 자수 퍼프를 의류 보온에 활용한 신개념 퍼퍼입니다. 퍼프는 처음에는 평평하게 제작되었다가 열에 노출되면 돔 모양으로 튀어나옵니다. 활성화된 퍼프는 외부 환경과 착용자 사이에 공기를 가두어 몸을 따뜻하게 유지합니다. 개발에는 '활성 섬유'와 '정적 직물' 간의 4D 자수 소재 상호 작용 라이브러리 생성이 포함됩니다. 디자이너와 개발자는 컴퓨팅 디자인 도구를 사용하여 최종 사용자와 협력하여 첨단 패션, 개인화되고 지속 가능한 새로운 직물 및 소프트굿 디자인을 만들 수 있습니다.

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award 철상

Random Puff 4D 자수 의류는, 이 작품은 A' Design Award 철상 수상작으로, 잘 디자인된 창작물에 기대되는 전문적·산업적 요건을 충족하는 좋은 디자인에 수여되는 권위 있는 인정입니다. 철상 수상작은 창작자의 뛰어난 기술, 높은 전문성, 전문가다운 이해, 창의적 역량을 보여 줍니다. Random Puff 4D 자수 의류는, 이 작품은 높이 평가받고 감탄과 사랑을 받는 창작물로서 실용적이고 혁신적일 것으로 기대됩니다. 이 철상 수상 디자인은 업계 모범 사례를 통합하며 노하우와 재능으로 연결된 유능한 기술적 특성을 갖추고 있습니다. Random Puff 4D 자수 의류는, 이 작품은 철저함으로 존중받으며 삶의 질을 개선하여 세상을 더 나은 곳으로 만들도록 디자인되었습니다.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: Random Puff is a garment application leveraging the puffy transformation that traps air within the dome pocket to keep the body warm. The double curvature geometry becomes easily fabricated, and personalizable styling is available through the computational design process, which opens up a new design/manufacturing space for a puffy garment.
Dimensions & Packaging: 500mm x 30mm x 700mm. However, since it's a garment, it can be fold into the size of 300mm x 20mm x 200mm.
Tags: 4D embroidery
Production Technology: Heat-shrink thread. Neoprene. Machine embroidery. Processing visualizer.
Design Challenge: First, the force balance between active thread and static fabric is a fundamental challenge. There is too much fabric out there with labeled information that does not necessarily lead to our purpose. Second, tension issues happen when new threads or fabric are introduced to the machine. It takes a while to calibrate, and sometimes break the machine if the thread is too thick/thin, or the fabric is too thick/slippery/crispy. Third, to achieve the maximized bi-layer bending, we want to vary the force on both sides so that the inner side does not constraint the outer side.
Research: Research background:
This research demonstrates how machine embroidery with heat-shrinking fibers enables existing fabrics to be augmented with morphing fibers.

Methods/Tools:
Similar to sewing, embroidery is a technique of interlacing upper and bottom threads with the substrate in between, but digitally. For the hardware, a desktop, hobbyist embroidery machine can easily execute wanted samples. For the software, I mainly explored PEmbroidery and Inkstitch for different purposes. PEmbroider is an open-source library housed in Processing that offers a procedural coding environment to generate detailed embroidered files at point and line levels. Inkstitch is also an open-source plug-in embedded in Inkscape that provides a graphical user interface, which is more friendly for primary users.

Results/Insight:
I started off the material characterization by testing different substrates with the same embroidery parameters. Out of 10+ fabrics, fabrics that are lightweight with high springness can hold the morphed structure better. A series of embroidery parameters were also tested systematically with stroke width, density, peak-to-peak distance, stitch spacing, and threading material. The fiber actuator can be tuned from crease(low res) to bend(high res) in a linear pattern. The fiber can be arranged in curves, origami creases, or arbitrary shapes to form more complex pop-up geometry.
Inspiration: Working at a NIKE shoe industry, I realized the challenge of transformation between 3D to 2D or vice versa. There's still no clear solution for the tedious, laborious, wasteful process from prototyping to production.

Working as a R&D at a carbon fiber company, I got to witness the power of machine embroidery, where it can digitally place fibers. This way, it can reinforce the artifact in any direction, replace the lamination thus reducing the material waste, and digitalize the process from start to end.
Project Duration: The project started in September 2021 and finished in December 2021 in Cambridge, MA, United States.
Operation Flow: First, a closed-curve set of circles, squares, or other arbitrary shapes is generated within the area of a 2D clothing. Second, the design file will be translated to an embroidery file via Processing, a visual output, and procedural coding environment. Third, upload the file to a desktop hobbyist embroidery machine and start embroidery. Lastly, the garment comes out flat from the machine and users can customize where to activate the puffs by heating the embroidery pattern with a steamer or iron.
Team Members: Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin
Skylar Tibbits
Jack Forman
Hiroshi Ishii
Image Credits: All IP, copyright, images, video credits belong to Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin.