Origins 브로치와 목걸이는 by Paloma Sanchez is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2023 A' Design Award 은상 in 주얼리 디자인 Competition Category.

은주얼리· 2023

Origins 브로치와 목걸이는

by Paloma Sanchez

Client: Paloma Sanchez The Art of Jewelry

A' Design Award 은상 Winner in 주얼리 Category

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Verified Award Winner

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Visit Site View at A' Design Award Press Release Award Badge

Colors

The Design

About Origins 브로치와 목걸이는

왁스 주조 기법을 사용하여 18K 골드로 제작된 이 목걸이는 오대호 지역에서 발견된 서기 1000년의 아니시나베 작살 머리를 자랑하며 일본 아코야 진주와 다이아몬드가 완벽하게 조화를 이룹니다. 원래 작살 촉으로 사용되었던 이 놀라운 구리 조각은 박물관에서 흔히 볼 수 있는 희귀한 표본입니다. 역사에 대한 깊은 존중을 담은 이 주얼리 제품은 고대 보물에 새로운 생명을 불어넣습니다. 디자인은 주얼리 제작 기술을 통해 귀중한 유물에 새로운 목적을 부여하려는 의지와 믿음을 나타냅니다.

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award 은상

Origins 브로치와 목걸이는, 이 작품은 A' Design Award 은상 수상작으로, 최상급이며 아름답고 인상적인 디자인에 수여되는 비범하게 권위 있는 인정입니다. 은상 수상작은 대단히 뛰어나고 매우 창의적인 작품으로, 디자이너의 탁월한 전문 지식, 재능, 통찰력을 보여 줍니다. Origins 브로치와 목걸이는, 이 작품은 훌륭한 대표작으로서 매우 전문적이고 깊이 있게 혁신적일 것으로 기대됩니다. 이 은상 수상 디자인은 예술, 과학, 디자인, 기술의 경계를 넓히는 데 이바지하는 주목할 만하고 찬사를 받는 발명품입니다. Origins 브로치와 목걸이는, 이 작품은 모두가 부러워하는 창작물로서 욕망을 일깨우고 긍정적인 감정을 불러오며 경탄과 경이로움을 불러일으킵니다.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: This piece pays tribute to the Anishinaabe, the first inhabitants of the Great Lakes area, and their rich history. The centerpiece of the design is a 3,000-year-old copper spear point fishing tool, which has been transformed into a piece of art jewelry.

Through the lens of jewelry-making, this design represents our will and belief in giving new life and purpose to ancient treasures. The combination of textures - the roughness of the old copper, the warm smoothness of the pearls, and the cold fire of the diamonds - creates a truly unique and captivating piece.

This committed art jewelry also celebrates the importance of our shared history and the importance of repurposing antique treasures to create something new and inspiring. It is a tribute to the resilience of humankind, the power of nature, and the artistry of those who came before us.
Dimensions & Packaging: Gold: 6,85g
Diamonds: 40 x 0.008cts round brilliant cut VVS diamonds Total weight of diamonds: 0.32cts
Pearls: 2 Akoya pearls, 6mm, and 5.5mm
Brooch: 10cm x 1,3cm to 2mm
Tags: jewelry, gold, brooch, necklace, First Nations, Anishinaabe, Necklace, Brooch, Unique, One of a Kind, Design, Repurpose, Museum piece, Antique, Art, Jewelry, Gold,
Production Technology: The brooch is hand-crafted in 18kt gold using a casting technique. The Anishinaabe Harpoon head (1000 B.C.) was found in the Great Lakes area and is married with Japanese Akoya pearls and Diamonds. It is important to note that this copper piece was initially used as a harpoon point (harpoons were made of wood and, therefore, would break easily. The copper point was meant to harden the end of the harpoon. The Anishinaabe did not know the iron, only copper, as there was a considerable copper source in the Great Lakes area.) such specimens tend to be found in museums.
As the cooper spear point has a cylindrical body, we designed the back of the brooch with two needles in order to guarantee complete stability, making sure that the face of the brooch always looks forward when worn, avoiding it rolling towards one side or the other. We managed to keep these two needles completely invisible when worn.
Design Challenge: The production of this piece presented two main challenges. Firstly, we aimed to maximize its utility while still conveying the Anishinaabe worldview in a contemporary context. This required a creative approach rather than just technical expertise. The brooch had to be comfortable to wear, visually appealing, and function as both a necklace and brooch, all while portraying the connection with nature and refinement of the First Nations.

During the early stages of the design, our challenge was primarily centered around how to ensure that the harpoon sat straight on the collar of a blouse or the lapel of a jacket, while keeping the functional structure invisible and comfortable to wear as a necklace. To achieve this, we developed a two-needle system that runs along 50% of the harpoon, with an invisible clasp at the top to allow a chain to pass through and use the harpoon point as a necklace. With the clasp centered and the two needles acting as counterweights and stoppers, the harpoon remains in a forward-facing position, whether worn as a necklace or a brooch.
The second challenge arose during the manufacturing process, as the harpoon is a delicate museum piece that cannot be subjected to high pressures or temperatures, or its texture and color could change. Furthermore, to respect its bond with nature, we had to ensure zero waste during production. To achieve this, we first hand-sculpted a wax mold that was then fitted precisely to the harpoon. We used this mold to cast the 18kts gold front enhancements in which the future diamonds would be set, as well as the brooch needles and the back adorns. Finally, the dorsal 18k gold structure was delicately adjusted to the harpoon to create the final product.

To showcase the piece´s deep connection to nature and portray the Anishinaabe’s skilled craftsmanship, we chose to incorporate natural gems with contrasting textures. The smooth, white spheres of the pearls beautifully contrast with the oxidized roughness of the copper, while the diamonds add a luminous quality to the piece that allows it to radiate its own light.
We believe these contrasting textures reflect the Anishinaabe worldview, which values the complementary nature of all things in the natural world. The smoothness of the pearls represents the calmness and tranquility found in nature, while the roughness of the copper represents the strength and resilience required to thrive in the natural world. The diamonds, with their brilliant radiance, represent the beauty and wonder of nature.
Through our design, we sought to pay homage to the Anishinaabe's sophisticated craftsmanship and their deep reverence for nature. The result is a piece that exudes luxurious allure while remaining faithful to the Anishinaabe worldview.
Inspiration: This piece is inspired by human history and diversity, as well as the importance of giving a new life to antique tools.
Project Duration: The project started in Michigan, USA, in January 2020 and was finished in our Beijing Atelier by the end of October 2020. It was exhibited at the Beijing Art and Design Fair in May 2021.
Operation Flow: The piece is a brooch that can be used as a necklace with the addition of a chain.
Team Members: Paloma Sanchez
Image Credits: Image #1: Creator Paloma Sanchez The Art of Jewelry, Origins, 2021.
Image #2: Creator Paloma Sanchez The Art of Jewelry, Origins model necklace, 2021.
Image #3: Creator Paloma Sanchez The Art of Jewelry, Origins model brooch, 2021.
Video Credits: Creator Paloma Sanchez The Art of Jewelry, Origins, 2021.