String in the Tail Билерик by Mandy Morris

String in the Tail Билерик by Mandy Morris is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2022 A' Design Award Күмүш байгеси in Зергерчилик Дизайны Competition Category.

КүмүшЗергерчилик· 2022

String in the Tail Билерик

by Mandy Morris

Client: Werk

A' Design Award Күмүш байгеси Winner in Зергерчилик Category

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Colors

The Design

About String in the Tail Билерик

String in the Tail — билерик да, шакек-билерик да боло турган зер буюм. Дизайн сиам согушчул балыгынын кыймылынан шыктанып, образдуу жана абстрактуу элементтерди айкалыштырат. Алтын мончок менен үч катар бермет жиби жөнгө салынуучу илгичти түзөт, ошондуктан узундугун билекке ылайыктап өзгөртүүгө болот. Буюм толугу менен кайра иштетилген 18 караттык ак жана сары алтындан кол менен жасалган. Табигый сары алмаздар ак алмаздарга каршы орнотулуп, берметтер терипге жумшак тиет. Кол менен оюп жасоо аркылуу агылып турган канаттын майда-чүйдө деталдары калыптанган.

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award Күмүш байгеси

String in the Tail Билерик – A' Design Award Күмүш байгесинин жеңүүчүсү, жогорку деңгээлдеги, көркөм жана таасирдүү дизайндарга берилген өзгөчө бедели жогору таануу. Күмүш жеңүүчүлөр – өтө тамаша жана абдан чыгармачыл иштер, алар авторлорунун мыкты билимин, талантын жана сезгичтигин көрсөтөт. String in the Tail Билерик сонун, үлгүлүү, өзгөчө кесипкөй жана терең жаңычыл чыгарма болот деп күтүлөт. Бул Күмүш байгени жеңген дизайн – искусство, илим, дизайн жана технологиянын чек араларын кеңейтүүгө салым кошкон көрүнүктүү ойлоп табуу. String in the Tail Билерик баардыгы кызыккан чыгарма, ал каалоону ойготот, жагымдуу сезимдерди алып келет жана таң калуу менен суктанууну жаратат.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: A unique design combining figurative and abstract elements .The piece looks like a bangle but is also part bracelet with a 3 strand string of pearls as an adjustable catch.This piece is also completely hand made from reused gold with natural yellow and white diamonds and pearls.
Dimensions & Packaging: 65 x 33mm for the cuff section using 33 grams of 18ct white and 18ct yellow yellow gold.
Diamond content -1.56ct of intense/ fancy natural yellow round brilliant cut diamonds
and 1 x 0.30ct natural yellow round brilliant cut diamond
and 1.59ct of F/vs white round brilliant cut diamonds Total diamond weight-3.15ct
with 22x pearls and gold bead string feature catch.
Production Technology: Made from repurposed 18ct white gold using traditional jewellery making skill with new lazer welding techniques in order to mix the carved fi details with the clean straight diamond set edges. Enhanced metal carving skills in order to create the fluidity of the fin shapes that were not too thin .Difficulties occurred in selecting a perfect 156 matching natural yellow diamonds out of 450 diamonds. The catch took some consideration so the bangle can be adjusted.
Research: Research spent time studying the movement and decoration of siamese fighting fish and many hours sketching the layout of the design by hand drawing at scale. Lots of time spent perfecting the hand carving skill for the fin detail and silver prototype for the catch.
Inspiration: The fluid movement and eye catching flamboyance of the Siamese fighting fish , so hypnotising they are like dancers and wanted to create a piece that was flamboyant and captured the movement and flow, making the metal seem light , almost molten which is then turned into wristwear that is aesthetically stunning but also playful with the moveable string of pearl which is also the catch.I try to combine reality with abstract design.
Project Duration: Designed January 2021 completed-april 2021in York uk .
exhibited at Goldsmith hall ,London in May 2021 and winner of 4 craftmanship and design awards including The Boodles award for fine jewellery.
Operation Flow: bangle has a an adjustable string of pearls which creates length to fit on the wrist and adjusted to required length.The wearer gets the pearls soft touch next to the skin and the playful element of adjusting the strands.
Team Members: Designer mandy morris
Thomas carl johnson maker and diamond setter.