Reinterpretation Of Changshan Vestimentum ab Tong Tong

Opus Reinterpretation Of Changshan Vestimentum a designatore Tong Tong est victor maxime honoratus praemii praestigiosissimi 2024 Praemium A' Design Award Aeneum in Categoria Certaminis Ars Vestiaria.

AesVestis· 2024

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Vestimentum

a Tong Tong

Victor praemii Praemium A' Design Award Aeneum in Categoria Vestis

92,381

Victor Praemii Verificatus

Verifica Statum Praemii pro #159036

Vide apud A' Design Award Communicatum Insigne Praemii

Colores

Designum

De Reinterpretation Of Changshan Vestimentum

Designatio honorat elegantiam perpetuam Changshan, venerati vestimenti traditionalis Sinici virorum. Eius formam exquisitam evocans, haec interpretatio nova patrimonium cum innovatione concinne miscet. Suturae verticales et sacci discrete insiti functionalitatem augent dum modestia servatur. Ex tela lanea multivoluta confectum, sustentationem structuralem speciemque sine rugis praebet. Per methodos sartoriales accuratas, provocatio collum denuo imaginandi superatur, curvis lenibus et integritate structurali simul conservatis.

Agnitio

De Praemium A' Design Award Aeneum

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Vestimentum victor est Praemii A' Design Award Aeneum, honoris multum aestimati formis egregiis, creandi ingenio, sollertia et acumine insignibus dati. Victores Aenei opera perita et mire creandi sunt, quae experientiam, imaginationem et solertiam auctorum suorum confirmant. Exspectatur Reinterpretation Of Changshan Vestimentum rem multum aestimatam, admiratam et carissimam, notabiliter professionalem et novam fore. Haec forma Aeneo victa optimas consuetudines artis, scientiae, formandi rationis et technologiae amplectitur et in cura minutiarum excellit. Reinterpretation Of Changshan Vestimentum necessitates egregie explet, cupiditates tangit, sensus capit et curiositatem allicit.

Post Designum

Fasciculus Nuntii

Merita, sodales gregis et singula technica a designatore praebita.

Proprietates Singulares: While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
Dimensiones et Involucrum: Full-body Length
Notulae: Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
Technologia Productionis: A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
Provocatio Designandi: The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
Investigatio: Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
Inspiratio: This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
Duratio Operis: This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
Cursus Operationis: The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
Membra Turmae: Tong Tong
Agnitiones Imaginum: Image #1-5 Photographer：Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023