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Hekne

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Interviewe mat Hekne

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Design Legend Interview

23 Froen

In the last year of high school we had this long project that we worked on for a whole year parallel to all the other subjects.

Could you please tell us a bit about your design background and education?

In the last year of high school we had this long project that we worked on for a whole year parallel to all the other subjects. I chose to write about the history of the wedding dress, and for the practical part of the project I made a one. That was when I started to understand that fashion design could be a possible career choice.

After one year of costume design in Norway I moved to London to do my BA in fashion design at Ravensbourne College. The second year of my BA I did at ESDi in Barcelona as an exchange student. This way I got the chance to experience both the crazy London creativity as well as the more commercial approach that they had in Spain. That was a great combination and helped my find my own personal path.

I have also learnt a lot doing internships, in different countries and in different size companies. I have been very lucky to be an intern in companies that gave me a lot of freedom, challenges and support. That’s been very valuable.

What motivates you to design in general, why did you become a designer?

I always enjoyed working with my hands and being creative. Becoming a fashion designer has never been my childhood dream though, it was more like every other alternative slowly got eliminated the more I learnt… And when deciding to found Hekne together with my business partner and we established our brand and philosophy, it became clear that there’s absolutely nothing else that will make me more happy than being able to live from this.

Designing for Hekne has not only allowed me to use my hands and creativity, but I can be a part of changing the fashion industry into become more sustainable. That makes my work very meaningful for myself personally.

Did you choose to become a designer, or you were forced to become one?

Becoming a designer was a choice I did only for myself and I’m very grateful for being so privileged that I’m able to make that choice.

What do you design, what type of designs do you wish to design more of?

I design womenswear, both knit and woven. It would be nice to see if we could expand to design also for men and children in the future.

What should young designers do to become a design legend like you?

Do internships and gather experience from as many fields of design as possible, follow your heart and allow yourself to use time finding your own path and voice.

What makes a good design a really good design, how do you evaluate good design?

When judging my own work for Hekne, I consider the most successful designs to be the ones that many people (including myself) find a love for, when the choice of materials prove to be great and the designs at the same time match the brand’s philosophy and signature look.

What is the value of good design? Why should everyone invest in good design?

Good design works better and lasts longer. If more people invested in good design, we would have a more sustainable world today.

What is the dream project you haven't yet had time to realize?

My dream project is to expand Hekne’s portfolio to include more designs for a wider group of people. That’s a project that needs time and that I want to take time.

What is your secret recipe of success in design, what is your secret ingredient?

Finding a balance where you listen to other people and are open to feedback, without compromising your own core values.

What is your greatest design, which aspects of that design makes you think it is great?

My favourite design from what I've made so far is the Monteverde coat from Hekne's first collection. It was inspired in an old anorak that I bought second hand and that I liked a lot. I made a wool version of it, with a cleaner look, but kept the oversized anorak style. It was just perfect in the cold winter when living in Copenhagen, as it has lots of space for extra layers. It also had space enough for my pregnant belly and later on for carrying my baby boy in a baby wrap - no need to change winter coat! The fact that it’s so versatile and useful, and also because it’s made of durable materials that will last long, makes the coat a great design.

How could people improve themselves to be better designers, what did you do?

I definitely became a better designer gaining experience from different fields. Internships, jobs and studies all gave me new knowledge and challenges.

If you hadn't become a designer, what would you have done?

I have no idea!

How do you define design, what is design for you?

Design to me is the whole process from choosing materials to approve the final product. It's also about using the voice and influence that you have as a designer to make a statement that you believe in yourself.

Who helped you to reach these heights, who was your biggest supporter?

My family.

How does design help create a better society?

As a designer you have a stronger voice than the consumer, and with that comes a great responsibility. You are a role model and you have to think carefully about every choice you make. By being aware of this and using your role wisely, designers can make a big difference in making a better society.

What are you currently working on that you are especially excited about?

That’s a secret!

What would you like to see changed in design industry in the coming years?

I hope we will get better at taking care of nature and the people that are involved in the production of our designs.

When you have a new design project, where do you start?

Every Hekne collection is inspired by the colours of a selected bird, so I always start with finding a match between available materials and a bird, in order to set the colour palette. I then gather ideas that I've collected and work on them until I arrive to a ready set of designs.

What is the role of technology when you design?

I love to use my hands and non technological tools, but the truth is that the part of the design process involving my computer takes up much more of my time.

What kind of design software and equipment do you use in your work?

I use the Adobe Photoshop, Illustrator and InDesign.

What is the role of the color, materials and ambient in design?

For us the colours, materials and ambient are the most important part of our visual concept. It’s all connected to the concept of birds and nature that binds our designs and brand together.

What do you wish people to ask about your design?

I get happy when people ask for more details regarding the fabrics and materials, as that’s something we put a lot of thought and work into.

Who is your ideal design partner? Do you believe in co-design?

Hekne was established by me and my childhood friend Siglinde. Even though she’s not a designer, she’s my ideal design partner as well as business partner. Everything that I do, is done together with her. As I want my designs to be used by many different people, it’s valuable to me to also share the design process with someone else.

Designer Interview

27 Froen

I knew early on that I wanted to do something creative, but it wasn't before I had graduated from high school that I thought about fashion design as an option.

Could you please tell us more about your art and design background? What made you become an artist/designer? Have you always wanted to be a designer?

I knew early on that I wanted to do something creative, but it wasn't before I had graduated from high school that I thought about fashion design as an option. I decided to give it a try, and the more I learnt, the more sure I got.

Can you tell us more about your company / design studio?

Hekne was established by Siglinde Lunde and I in 2013. We used the first three years to test, explore, research, and to create the concept and the brand, before launching our first collection in the autumn 2016. While I'm in charge of the design process, Siglinde is responsible for sales and PR. Everything else is shared between us.

What is "design" for you?

Design is much more than deciding the look of things, it's the whole process from choosing materials to approve the final product. It's also about using the voice and influence that you have as a designer to make a statement and choice that you belive in yourself.

What kinds of works do you like designing most?

Jackets and knitted sweaters!

What is your most favorite design, could you please tell more about it?

My favourite design from what I've made so far is the Monteverde jacket from Hekne's first collection. It was inspired in an old anorak that I bought second hand and liked a lot. I made a wool version of it, with a cleaner look, but kept the oversized anorak style. It was just perfect in the cold winter when living in Copenhagen, as it has lots of space for extra layers. It also had space enough for my pregnant belly and later on for carrying my baby boy in a baby wrap - no need to change winter jacket!

What was the first thing you designed for a company?

I made a few designs that were selected for production when doing my internships. I don't remember if the first one was a dress or a pair of shorts. (The shorts proved to be quite a failure...it looked beautiful, but wasn't specially functional. Great learning experience!)

When do you feel the most creative?

When being able to use my hands; being in direct touch with the medium I'm working with.

Which aspects of a design do you focus more during designing?

The choice and combination of materials and colours.

What kind of emotions do you feel when you design?

It varies, from pure excitement to a deep calmness, and with a portion of frustration once in a while. I often get so caught up that I forget everything else.

What kind of emotions do you feel when your designs are realized?

I often feel proud, but I'm also self critical and might doubt whether it's actually good enough.

It's always very exciting when the final products arrive from the producers, after waiting and working for so long.

What makes a design successful?

When it's understood and loved by many people.

When judging a design as good or bad, which aspects do you consider first?

Whether the shape and function works well, and whether the materials work as expected.

From your point of view, what are the responsibilities of a designer for society and environment?

As a designer you have a stronger voice than the consumer, and with that comes a great responsibility. You are a role model and you have to think carefully about every choice you make.

To us personally there are no alternatives to keeping your company as sustainable as we can, but we are also trying to express our philosophy in order to influence the industry and consumer behaviour that we have today.

How do you think the "design field" is evolving? What is the future of design?

Within fashion design we clearly see the wave of slow fashion growing and I sincerely hope that we can evolve into a more sustainable industry, with a more healthy buying behaviour.

Where does the design inspiration for your works come from? How do you feed your creativity? What are your sources of inspirations?

All our collections are inspired by birds. Every collection carries the colour of one selected bird, and this way they all belong to one greater visual concept.

I get inspiration from the birds' colours, matched with fabrics and yarn, but also from many other different sources. It might e.g. be from books, films or nature, or from old garments and favourites from my wardrobe.

How would you describe your design style? What made you explore more this style and what are the main characteristics of your style? What's your approach to design?

I want to make clothes that can be used many times and for many occasions, and that can be easily washed. From that they naturally get classic and clean, and might be called Scandinavian style. My designs are also quite feminine and have few, but well thought details.

Where do you live? Do you feel the cultural heritage of your country affects your designs? What are the pros and cons during designing as a result of living in your country?

I currently live in Barcelona, after a few years in London and Copenhagen. I left my home country several years ago, but still feel very attached to Norway. My childhood and cultural background, growing up so close to Norway's beautiful nature, clearly shows in the philosophy and concept of Hekne.

Can you talk a little about your design process?

It starts with finding a match between available materials and a bird, in order to set the colour palette. I then gather ideas that I've collected and work on them until I arrive to a ready set of designs. These are developed into spec drawings and then turned into proto samples. I correct the proto samples once or twice, before the final products are made.

Can you describe a day in your life?

I have a one and a half year old, so I spend most of my day with him. I work while he's sleeping or when my husband or his grandparents are helping me out.

Could you please share some pearls of wisdom for young designers? What are your suggestions to young, up and coming designers?

Ask for help! And use enough time to test and search and research.

From your perspective, what would you say are some positives and negatives of being a designer?

The most positive is being able to do something creative. What some times feels hard and stressful is when there's too much other things that steel my time.

Which tools do you use during design? What is inside your toolbox? Such as software, application, hardware, books, sources of inspiration etc.?

Pens and paper, thread and needle, bird books, computer with Photoshop, Indesign and Illustrator.

What was your most important job experience?

Doing internships in different companies.

What are your future plans? What is next for you?

I hope Hekne can grow to a level that makes it possible to live from it.

Do you work as a team, or do you develop your designs yourself?

I do most of the work myself, but I always ask my partner for feedback. We work very closely.

Do you have any works-in-progress being designed that you would like to talk about?

We have some projects in-progress, but they are secret!

How can people contact you?

Through our web site or social media profiles.

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