Reinterpretation Of Changshan Akanjo by Tong Tong

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Akanjo by Tong Tong is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2024 A' Design Award Varahina in Famolavolana Lamaody, Fitafiana ary Akanjo Competition Category.

VarahinaLamaody· 2024

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Akanjo

by Tong Tong

A' Design Award Varahina Winner in Lamaody Category

92,381

Verified Award Winner

Verify Award Status for #159036

View at A' Design Award Press Release Award Badge

Colors

The Design

About Reinterpretation Of Changshan Akanjo

Manome voninahitra ny faingana mandrakizay an'ny Changshan, akanjo lahy sinoa nentim-paharazana hajaina, ity endrika ity. Mampiseho ny bika malefaka tsara azy, ity fandikana vaovao ity dia mampitambatra am-pahatanteraka ny lova sy ny fanavaozana. Ny zaitra mitsangana sy ny paosy voarindra an-tsokosoko dia manatsara ny fiasa sady mitazona ny fahalemem-panahy. Vita amin'ny lamba volonondry voahodina mafy, manome tohana ara-drafitra sy endrika tsy misy fipihim-bolo. Amin'ny alalan'ny fomba fanjairana mazoto, voafefy ny fanamby amin'ny fanovaovana indray ny tendany sady miantoka ny miolikolika malama sy ny fahamarinan'ny rafitra.

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award Varahina

Nandresy ny A' Design Award Varahina ny famolavolana Reinterpretation Of Changshan Akanjo, fankasitrahana malaza be omena ny famolavolana miavaka izay mampiavaka ny fahaiza-mamorona, ny fahazotoana ary ny fahamaotinan-tsaina. Ny mpandresy Varahina dia zavatra vita tanana mahay dia mahay ary mamorona mivantana izay manamafy ny traikefa be dia be, ny sarintsaina ary ny fahaizan-kafoy an'ny mpamolavola azy. Andrasana ho zavatra ankasitrahana be, ankafizina ary tiana, mahay amin'ny asa sady vaovao ny famolavolana Reinterpretation Of Changshan Akanjo. Ity famolavolana nandresy ny A' Design Award Varahina ity dia mitahiry ny fomba fanao tsara indrindra amin'ny zavakanto, ny siansa, ny famolavolana ary ny teknolojia, ary tsara indrindra amin'ny fitandremana ny antsipirihany. Ny famolavolana Reinterpretation Of Changshan Akanjo dia mahafa-po ny filana tsara, mikasika ny faniriana, mahasarika ny fihetseham-po ary misarika ny fahalianana.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
Dimensions & Packaging: Full-body Length
Tags: Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
Production Technology: A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
Design Challenge: The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
Research: Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
Inspiration: This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
Project Duration: This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
Operation Flow: The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
Team Members: Tong Tong
Image Credits: Image #1-5 Photographer：Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023