Ko te hoahoa Kuden Project Atamira nā Takahiro Sato he kaitoa whakahirahira o te 2020 A' Design Award Rino i te Wāhanga Whakataetae Hoahoa Pāpori.

RinoPāpori· 2020

Kuden Project Atamira

nā Takahiro Sato

Kiritaki: KUDEN by TAKAHIRO SATO

Kaitoa o te A' Design Award Rino i te Wāhanga Pāpori

23,256

Kaitoa Tohu Manatokohia

Manatokohia te Tūnga Tohu mō #100013

Torohia te Pae Tirohia i te A' Design Award Pānui Pāpāho Tohu Tohu

Ngā Tae

Te Hoahoa

Mō Kuden Project Atamira

Ko te papaaho a Kimono ehara i te hua anake engari he mahi a ia ano he hoahoa hapori hei whakaoti i nga take e pa ana ki te 2: Kua ngaro te ahurea kimono Hapanihi me te hangarau taahuri nui mo te Hapanihi me te Hauauru. Mo te ngawari ki te tango kimono i roto i nga mahi o ia ra, e 3 nga taonga. Ko nga taangata he kakahu rite katoa ki te kimono me te taera me o raatau kakahu rite ki nga kakahu o ia ra. Hei kaikiri i te ao o te ao, katahi ka tono a Kimono ki nga mea tuku iho me nga mahi tika mo te wheketere tuitui. Ko te whaainga whakamutunga o te KUDEN ko te mahi a te hunga hauā te tama a te Tumuaki.

Te Whakamihi

Mō te A' Design Award Rino

Ko Kuden Project Atamira te toa o te A' Design Award Rino, he whakaaetanga whai mana e hoatu ana ki ngā hoahoa pai e whakatutuki ana i ngā hiahia ngaio me te ahumahi e tūmanakohia ana mai i ngā mahi kua hoahoatia pai. Ko ngā toa Rino e whakaatu ana i te pukenga nui, te tohungatanga teitei, te māramatanga mātanga me te kaha auaha o ō rātou kaihanga. E tūmanakohia ana ko Kuden Project Atamira he mahi whakanuia, whakamīharotia, aroha nui, he whaihua, he auaha hoki. Ko tēnei hoahoa i toa i te Rino e whakakotahi ana i ngā tikanga pai rawa o te ahumahi, ā, he āhuatanga hangarau pūkenga tōna e hono ana ki te mōhio me te pūmanawa. E whakahonoretia ana a Kuden Project Atamira mō tōna tōtika, ā, i hoahoatia hei whakapai ake i te kounga o te oranga me te āwhina i te ao kia pai ake.

I Muri i te Hoahoa

Kete Pāpāho

Ngā whakamihi, ngā mema o te rōpū me ngā taipitopito hangarau i whakaratohia e te kaihoahoa.

Āhuatanga Motuhake: KUDEN's Next Kimono platform is not only product but also has a role as social design to solve 2 social issues Disappear Japanese traditional kimono culture and Lost high sewing technique for both Japanese and Western. For easy to take kimono in daily life, it consists of 3 items. People wear both fullset as kimono and single with their usual outfit as daily clothes. As a trigger to wear kimono in world's daily life, Next Kimono makes demand for traditional kimono and jobs at fair wages for sewing factory.
Inenga & Pēketanga: Next Kimono is consists of 3 items. The social design to expand kimono to the world. Design and material are selected for suitable to daily life all over the world.Samurai Mode Jacket, Samurai Mode Pants and Samurai Mode Shirt, it's Next Kimono Platform.
Samurai Mode Jakcet(M size): Face side:triacetate69%,polyester31%/Lining:cupra100%/shoulder width:72cm/Sleeve length:38cm/Body length:82cm/Sleeve hem width:21cm/Sleeve width:43cm
The material of jacket is Soaron made of triacetate. In 1967, Japanese company Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation produced the Soaron first time.
From then, Soaron is always caught the eye of creator because that makes creativity higher. This material receive high commendation from fashion business world.By this fabric, we aim to comfortable jacket like what you want to put your arm through the sleeve.
Tūtohu: social, traditional, kimono, apparel, branding, fashion, ethical, platform, solution
Hangarau Whakanao: Nowadays kimono is known all over the world but on the other hand, the scale of Japanese kimono market is 1/10 compared to 35 years ago. Disappearing kimono as usual outfits, most Japanese can’t wear kimono by themselves.Also special technique to sew Kimono, Japanese dressmaking called Wasai is despairing.
We need a policy to expand kimono market and make more demands of kimono and also remove the obstacle to wear kimono in daily life. So I design Next Kimono, no need special technique to wear, as new kimono platform and adopt custom order to consider working environment.
Wero Hoahoa: Most difficult challenge is redesign as western dressmaking remaining attracts of kimono. Also finding material and sewing factory that can actualize the shape by western dressmaking was difficult. In addition, put high value how we are as brand, without lie to customer so we show the cost to customer for they understand how/what/to who their payment is used for.
Rangahau: Focus on the fact that kimono is long life design & 1 design (fashion platform) continued 400 years ago in Edo period. I consider kimono as a platform, to make it suitable for modern daily life all over the world, I redesign as Next Kimono platform. To bring kimono now recognized as expensive clothes only for special day back to daily outfits. Wear without special technique, 3 piece set design to wear separately, actualize affordable price by adapting western dressmaking.
Increase the demands of kimono, expand kimono market to the world, it connects to make interests for traditional kimono and Wasai (Japanese dressmaking) . The artisan of wasai decreases and even have to close their company because of diminishment of kimono culture. Even they have, it’s a low wage. Japanese dressmaking needs more time to make a clothes compared with western dressmaking so it can’t expand the market in short term. So I adapt western dressmaking for first step to expand kimono market and connect to employment of disabled people.
Our final goal is actualize employment of disabled people with sewing factory and artisans. But we can’t start with Japanese dressmaking first because of reason above so we try to make demands for kimono with western dressmaking factory and connect this activity to our final goal.

Also we have another approach as Ethical brand for environment, not only for working. We sell the vintage haori and kimono too. Mass production over our demand makes excessive stock in result, The brand that worry about be damaged by sold cheap price dispose their stocks to protect brand’s value and profit. This is the current situation for apparel world. They are too much burden on natural environment.In Japan, distribution stock that bankrupt company left in those history and closet stock lost balance between supply and demand.There is $30 billion closet stock, it 20 years worth of kimono demand. Only those stock can do is waiting for disposal.
KUDEN think ethical has to be sustainable, consideration for environment to produce products long time.
Not only produce new product like that, Also keep using already on market or you have with thanks to environment and producer, not disposal and throw away immediately is important sustainable approach for KUDEN.
Whakaaweawe: When I sort through my mother's effects, I found her kimono. I remember my childhood kimono memory with mother and felt I want to wear kimono but can’t because I don’t know how to wear. I realized kimono culture will disappear if it keeps going. It’s my first inspiration. Also the reason I start brands, I have a son with disability and from my experience that involved in employment for disabled people, saw the product they make, I decided to make the place that people like my son works with joy.
Roanga o te Kaupapa: First publish is on Kickstarter in November 2018 and produced Jacket first time in January 2019. Our partner sewing factory Marron went bankrupt in May 2019 and temporarily stopped production. It made our brand to go more Ethical brand and realize the importance of social design. KUDEN publish our cost to customer and keep 40-50% cost rate. In December 2019, released Pants.
Rerenga Mahi: Next Kimono platform is a trigger to experience kimono in daily life and like it. To actualize it, Next Kimono doesn’t need special technique to wear, can wear 3 piece as kimono and also single with ordinary outfits. It makes it to wear and go in kimono for more opportunities. Redesign kimono but also remain the attracts of kimono like Miyatsuguchi, unique sleeve shape. Also Next Kimono platform is 1 design and long life design, it means we don’t follow the trends. It has a function to improve the working environment and efficiency of production and finance because the sewing factory can continue to sew same pattern, it means they accumulate the technique and increase their skills.
Ngā Mema o te Rōpū: Social Designer/Chief Designer(Creative Director): Takahiro Sato
Graphic Designer : Asami Sato
Whakamana Whakaahua: Photographer: Nobuyuki Arai, Mance Thompson, Serene Mangmati, Takahiro Sato