Reinterpretation Of Changshan Pakayan by Tong Tong

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Pakayan by Tong Tong is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2024 A' Design Award Gangsa in Fesyen Competition Category.

GangsaFesyen· 2024

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Pakayan

by Tong Tong

A' Design Award Gangsa Winner in Fesyen Category

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Verified Award Winner

Verify Award Status for #159036

View at A' Design Award Press Release Award Badge

Colors

The Design

About Reinterpretation Of Changshan Pakayan

Rancangan iko manghormati keanggunan nan indak lapuah dari Changshan, pakayan tradisional laki-laki Cina nan diagungkan. Managiahan siluet nan elegan, reinterpretasi iko mamadukan warisan jo inovasi sacaro mulus. Jahitan vartikal jo kantong nan tarintegrasi sacaro halus maningkatkan fungsi sambia manjagokan kasopanan. Dibuek dari kain high twist wool twill, memberikan sokongan struktural jo tampilan nan indak bakaruik. Malalui metode panjahitan nan taliti, tantangan untuak marancangnyo baliak garis lihe darek bisa diatasi sambia mamastikan lengkungan nan mulus jo integritas struktural.

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award Gangsa

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Pakayan adolah pamenang A' Design Award Gangsa, sabuah pangakuan nan sangaik bapresti nan dibarikan ka rancangan nan cemerlang nan dicirikan dek kreativitas, kacerdikan jo kabijaksanaan. Pamenang Gangsa adolah karya nan cukuik mahir jo kreatif sacaro mangesankan nan mamastikan pangalaman nan luas, imajinasi jo kacerdikan parancangnyo. Reinterpretation Of Changshan Pakayan dipaokan manjadi bando nan sangaik dihormati, dikagumi jo disayangi, nan profesional jo inovatif sacaro nampak. Rancangan nan manang Gangsa iko mamuek praktik tabaik dalam seni, ilimu, rancangan jo teknologi jo cemerlang dalam parhatian ka rincian. Reinterpretation Of Changshan Pakayan mamanuhi kaparluan jo elok, manyantuah karinduan, mamikaik parasaan jo manarik raso ingin tahu.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
Dimensions & Packaging: Full-body Length
Tags: Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
Production Technology: A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
Design Challenge: The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
Research: Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
Inspiration: This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
Project Duration: This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
Operation Flow: The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
Team Members: Tong Tong
Image Credits: Image #1-5 Photographer：Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023