Reinterpretation Of Changshan Хувцас by Tong Tong

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Хувцас by Tong Tong is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2024 A' Design Award Хүрэл шагнал in Загвар өмсгөл, хувцас ба хувцасны дизайн Competition Category.

ХүрэлЗагвар өмсгөл· 2024

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Хувцас

by Tong Tong

A' Design Award Хүрэл шагнал Winner in Загвар өмсгөл Category

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Colors

The Design

About Reinterpretation Of Changshan Хувцас

Энэхүү загвар нь Хятадын эрэгтэй хүмүүсийн хүндтэй уламжлалт хувцас болох Чаншань-ы мөнхийн гоёмсог байдлыг хүндэтгэн дэмжсэн. Түүний боловсронгуй дүр төрхийг сэргээн, энэхүү шинэ хувилбар нь өв уламжлал болон инновацийг уян хатан хослуулсан. Босоо оёдол болон нууцаар нэгтгэсэн халаас нь даруу байдлыг хадгалахын зэрэгцээ функциональ байдлыг сайжруулсан. Өндөр мушгиатай ноосон эрхий даавуунаас урласан энэхүү хувцас нь бүтцийн дэмжлэг болон үрчлээгүй харагдалтыг хангадаг. Нарийвчилсан оёдлын аргуудаар хүзүүний хэсгийг шинэчлэн дүрслэх сорилтыг даван туулж, гөлгөр муруйлт болон бүтцийн бүрэн бүтэн байдлыг хангасан.

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award Хүрэл шагнал

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Хувцас нь A' Design Award Хүрэл шагналын ялагч бөгөөд бүтээлч чанар, овсгоо, цэцэн ухаанаараа ялгарсан шилдэг загварт олгодог маш нэр хүндтэй хүлээн зөвшөөрөлт юм. Хүрэл ялагчид бол хангалттай ур чадвартай, гайхалтай бүтээлч ажил бөгөөд зохион бүтээгчдийн өргөн туршлага, төсөөлөл, самбаатай байдлыг баталдаг. Reinterpretation Of Changshan Хувцас нь өндөр үнэлэгдсэн, биширсэн, хайрласан зүйл, мэдэгдэхүйц мэргэжлийн, шинэлэг байх болно гэж хүлээгддэг. Хүрэл шагнал хүртсэн энэ загвар нь урлаг, шинжлэх ухаан, загвар, технологийн шилдэг туршлагыг шингээж, нарийн ширийнд анхаарал хандуулснаараа тод юм. Reinterpretation Of Changshan Хувцас хэрэгцээг гайхалтай хангаж, хүслийг хөндөж, сэтгэл хөдлөлийг байлдан дагуулж, сониуч занг татдаг.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
Dimensions & Packaging: Full-body Length
Tags: Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
Production Technology: A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
Design Challenge: The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
Research: Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
Inspiration: This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
Project Duration: This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
Operation Flow: The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
Team Members: Tong Tong
Image Credits: Image #1-5 Photographer：Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023