Random Puff 4D कढाई कपडा by Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin

Random Puff 4D कढाई कपडा by Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2023 A' Design Award फलाम पुरस्कार in टेक्सटाइल, कपडा, बनावट, ढाँचा र वस्त्र डिजाइन Competition Category.

फलामटेक्सटाइल· 2023

Random Puff 4D कढाई कपडा

by Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin

Client: MIT Media Lab

A' Design Award फलाम पुरस्कार Winner in टेक्सटाइल Category

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Colors

The Design

About Random Puff 4D कढाई कपडा

RandomPuff एक उपन्यास पफर हो जसले कपडा इन्सुलेशनको लागि 4D कढाई पफहरू प्रयोग गर्दछ। पफहरू सुरुमा समतल बनाइएका हुन्छन् र गर्मीमा पर्दा गुम्बजहरूमा पप अप हुन्छन्। सक्रिय पफहरूले शरीरलाई न्यानो राख्नको लागि बाहिरी वातावरण र पहिरन गर्नेहरू बीचको हावालाई जालमा राख्छ। विकासमा 'सक्रिय फाइबर' र 'स्थिर कपडाहरू' बीचको 4D कढाई सामग्री अन्तरक्रियाको पुस्तकालयको निर्माण समावेश छ। डिजाइनरहरू र विकासकर्ताहरूले कम्प्युटेसनल डिजाइन उपकरणहरू प्रयोग गर्न सक्छन् अन्त-प्रयोगकर्ताहरूसँग मिलेर काम गर्न, नयाँ कपडा र सफ्टगुड डिजाइनहरू सिर्जना गर्न जुन उच्च-टेक फेसन, व्यक्तिगत र दिगो हो।

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award फलाम पुरस्कार

Random Puff 4D कढाई कपडा A' Design Award फलाम पुरस्कारको विजेता हो, राम्ररी डिजाइन गरिएका रचनाबाट अपेक्षित व्यावसायिक र औद्योगिक आवश्यकता पूरा गर्ने राम्रा डिजाइनहरूलाई दिइने प्रतिष्ठित मान्यता। फलाम विजेताहरूले आफ्ना सर्जकहरूको ठूलो कौशल, उच्च विशेषज्ञता, विज्ञ बुझाइ र सृजनात्मक क्षमता देखाउँछन्। Random Puff 4D कढाई कपडा उच्च सम्मानित, प्रशंसित र प्रिय, व्यावहारिक र नवीन रचना बन्नेछ भन्ने अपेक्षा छ। Random Puff 4D कढाई कपडा को सूक्ष्मताका लागि सम्मान पाइन्छ र जीवनको गुणस्तर सुधारेर संसारलाई अझ राम्रो बनाउन मद्दत गर्न यो डिजाइन गरिएको हो।

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: Random Puff is a garment application leveraging the puffy transformation that traps air within the dome pocket to keep the body warm. The double curvature geometry becomes easily fabricated, and personalizable styling is available through the computational design process, which opens up a new design/manufacturing space for a puffy garment.
Dimensions & Packaging: 500mm x 30mm x 700mm. However, since it's a garment, it can be fold into the size of 300mm x 20mm x 200mm.
Tags: 4D embroidery
Production Technology: Heat-shrink thread. Neoprene. Machine embroidery. Processing visualizer.
Design Challenge: First, the force balance between active thread and static fabric is a fundamental challenge. There is too much fabric out there with labeled information that does not necessarily lead to our purpose. Second, tension issues happen when new threads or fabric are introduced to the machine. It takes a while to calibrate, and sometimes break the machine if the thread is too thick/thin, or the fabric is too thick/slippery/crispy. Third, to achieve the maximized bi-layer bending, we want to vary the force on both sides so that the inner side does not constraint the outer side.
Research: Research background:
This research demonstrates how machine embroidery with heat-shrinking fibers enables existing fabrics to be augmented with morphing fibers.

Methods/Tools:
Similar to sewing, embroidery is a technique of interlacing upper and bottom threads with the substrate in between, but digitally. For the hardware, a desktop, hobbyist embroidery machine can easily execute wanted samples. For the software, I mainly explored PEmbroidery and Inkstitch for different purposes. PEmbroider is an open-source library housed in Processing that offers a procedural coding environment to generate detailed embroidered files at point and line levels. Inkstitch is also an open-source plug-in embedded in Inkscape that provides a graphical user interface, which is more friendly for primary users.

Results/Insight:
I started off the material characterization by testing different substrates with the same embroidery parameters. Out of 10+ fabrics, fabrics that are lightweight with high springness can hold the morphed structure better. A series of embroidery parameters were also tested systematically with stroke width, density, peak-to-peak distance, stitch spacing, and threading material. The fiber actuator can be tuned from crease(low res) to bend(high res) in a linear pattern. The fiber can be arranged in curves, origami creases, or arbitrary shapes to form more complex pop-up geometry.
Inspiration: Working at a NIKE shoe industry, I realized the challenge of transformation between 3D to 2D or vice versa. There's still no clear solution for the tedious, laborious, wasteful process from prototyping to production.

Working as a R&D at a carbon fiber company, I got to witness the power of machine embroidery, where it can digitally place fibers. This way, it can reinforce the artifact in any direction, replace the lamination thus reducing the material waste, and digitalize the process from start to end.
Project Duration: The project started in September 2021 and finished in December 2021 in Cambridge, MA, United States.
Operation Flow: First, a closed-curve set of circles, squares, or other arbitrary shapes is generated within the area of a 2D clothing. Second, the design file will be translated to an embroidery file via Processing, a visual output, and procedural coding environment. Third, upload the file to a desktop hobbyist embroidery machine and start embroidery. Lastly, the garment comes out flat from the machine and users can customize where to activate the puffs by heating the embroidery pattern with a steamer or iron.
Team Members: Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin
Skylar Tibbits
Jack Forman
Hiroshi Ishii
Image Credits: All IP, copyright, images, video credits belong to Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin.