SS Navigator Herenhorloge door Martin Iglody

Het ontwerp SS Navigator Herenhorloge door Martin Iglody is een hoog aangeschreven winnaar van de zeer prestigieuze 2021 A' Design Award in Brons in de competitiecategorie Sieradenontwerp.

BronsSieraden· 2021

SS Navigator Herenhorloge

door Martin Iglody

Opdrachtgever: Martin Design

Winnaar van de A' Design Award in Brons in de categorie Sieraden

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Het Ontwerp

Over SS Navigator Herenhorloge

De SS Navigator is ontstaan uit de passie voor uurwerken in maritieme stijl. Ze zijn uitgerust met een groot aantal op de zee geïnspireerde kenmerken en ontworpen onder deze invloed, die de prachtige sfeer van het leven op zee belichaamt. De belangrijkste elementen van het nautische thema, zoals te zien op de wijzerplaten van het horloge, zijn de nautische kaart en het teakdek. Het ontwerp van mechanische horloges elimineert de noodzaak om batterijen te gebruiken en te vervangen, waardoor de ecologische voetafdruk op aarde wordt verkleind. Om deze reden wordt de SS Navigator aangedreven door een mechanisch automatisch tourbillon-uurwerk.

De Erkenning

Over de A' Design Award in Brons

SS Navigator Herenhorloge is winnaar van de A' Design Award in Brons, een hoogst prestigieuze erkenning die wordt toegekend aan uitstekende ontwerpen die zich onderscheiden door creativiteit, vindingrijkheid en scherpzinnigheid. Winnaars in Brons zijn ruimschoots vaardige en opvallend creatieve artefacten die de grote ervaring, verbeelding en het vernuft van hun ontwerpers bevestigen. SS Navigator Herenhorloge wordt verwacht een hooggewaardeerd, bewonderd en gekoesterd object te zijn dat opmerkelijk professioneel en innovatief is. Dit ontwerp dat de A' Design Award in Brons heeft gewonnen, verwerkt de beste praktijken in kunst, wetenschap, ontwerp en technologie en is uitstekend door zijn aandacht voor detail. SS Navigator Herenhorloge bevredigt schitterend behoeften, raakt verlangens, charmeert gevoelens en spreekt de nieuwsgierigheid aan.

Achter het Ontwerp

Perskit

Credits, teamleden en technische details verstrekt door de ontwerper.

Unieke Eigenschappen: The SS Navigator Watch Collection coming from the marine world. This timepieces embodies the atmosphere of life at sea optimizing precision, reliability and quality of this high-performance models. The strong nautical theme represents the elements – Nautical chart, and Teak Deck. With its sophisticated design, the SS Navigator is a versatile watch that makes that perfect companion for those who embrace the marine lifestyle.
Afmetingen & Verpakking: Case:

Metal Case - 316 L Stainless Steel
Diameter - 43 mm, Case Thickness - 13 mm
Sapphire Crystal Glass - Dial, Case Back and Crown

Strap:

Handcrafted Crocodile or Calfskin

Movement:

Peacock SL 5215 - Tourbillon Self Winding
Jewels - 33, Frequency - 21'600
Running Time - 40 Hours
Hours, Minutes and Small Power Reserve Hand at 12 O'clock

Dial:

Blue Sunburst with Nautical Chart Multi Layered Dial
or
Wooden Teak Deck Multi Layered Dial

Hours Indexes and Hands with Blue Luminous - BGW9
Tags: ss navigator, watch, automatic watch, marine style watch, tourbillon watch
Productietechnologie: The SS Navigator was designed in Ireland and assembled in Hong Kong - small watch manufacturing company, but each part of this models coming from different place. Movement SL 5215 from Peackok company in China. Dial was made in small factory in Shenzen with watch hands and watch strap are handcrafted in Vietnam using genuine leather and natural color substances.
Ontwerpuitdaging: During design development process we encountered small challenge how to implement luminescent paint for the hour indices, hour and minute hands. This was planed advance and we selected blue luminescent paint BGW9. The hour indices are combined with top screw and triangular wedge shape and to just simply paint them on the top doesn't produce desirable outcome from the design perspective and very poor effect. The same issue applied for the hour and minute hands. To solve this challenge it has been decided to use thick dark blue navy color line in the middle of indices and hands. After we can apply luminescent paint on both sides of this line using shape of the indices and hands contour. This technique has very positive impact on final design of the dial. Also during night mode the shape of luminescent paint has very creative effect. There was one small issue during production process with the tourbillon movement holder - plastic ring. This holder wasn't supply by movement factory and we had to search for alternative from the hundreds of different kind of movement holders. It took some time and even we find one for our movement its still needs some small adjustment. We overcome this small issues very effectively and in very short time.
Onderzoek: The design ideas is always coming after some deep research is done before first sketch is draw on the paper. We dived into last five years of men's fashion watches and looking for most popular categories in the general public. There was selected four categories or styles for the data collection. Dive (Marine) style, Aviator style, Dress style and Racing style watches. For this research we implemented most popular tools as Watch blogs, Watch magazines, FB Watch groups, Watch reviewers and You tubers. On the end of this research there was only single result. The men's watches number one is Dive (Marine) style. This has significant impact on design process. The goal has been set to achieve creation of unique design of marine style watches where implementation of elements from this category are crucial. The project started with inspiration to use the nautical map for the dial texture with two navy colors light blue for background and dark navy blue for the numbers and nautical chart. During design process was decided to add extra dial with marine teak deck texture where two models was created in one instant. We tested the prototypes by wearing them using group of selected people and collected the feedback about the quality and design. After few details adjustments the response exceeded our expectation.
Inspiratie: The SS Navigator was born out of the passion for marine style timepieces. There’s just something about a watch that combines nautical elegance and exceptional functionality.

The designs themselves were inspired by memories from six months on board the SS Navigator cruise ship incorporating key areas
and nautical symbols into design while the collection takes its names from the ship.
Projectduur: The project started in June 2018 from scratch design in Cork, Ireland and first prototype was made in January 2019. After small changes and adjustment the final prototype was born in August 2019.
Werkproces: Men's Automatic self winding watches. The tourbillon models include three hands which show you hour, minute and power reserve of the watch mechanism. This model you can operate by unscrew the crown - pull out on the second position and set the time. With first position you can wind the watch.
Teamleden: Martin Iglody
Paul Lin