Turquerie Primary Function: Uruurin Dharka Haweenka by Catalina Paladi is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2021 Abaalmarinta Lacagta ah ee A' Design Award in Naqshadeynta Fashaniga, Dharka iyo Lebiska Competition Category.
LacagFashani· 2021
Turquerie Primary Function: Uruurin Dharka Haweenka
Client: Catalina Paladi
Abaalmarinta Lacagta ah ee A' Design Award Winner in Fashani Category
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The Design
About Turquerie Primary Function: Uruurin Dharka Haweenka
Turquerie waa uruurin dharka haweenka oo laga soo dhaliyay dhaqanka muuqaalka ah ee Boqortooyadii Cusmaaniyiinta. Uruurintu waxay ka kooban tahay lix qaab-muuqaal iyo toban qaybood oo si gaar ah loo sameeyay, cabbirradoodu waxay ka bilaabmaan aad u yar ilaa dhexdhexaad. Alaabooyin raaxo leh sida jacquard, velvet iyo chiffon ayaa abuura kala duwanaanshaha midabka iyo qulqulka, taasoo hodmisa qaabab fudud iyo xariiqyo casri ah oo nadiif ah. Maryo lakab-lakab ah oo cufnaan iyo daahsanaan kala duwan leh, oo ay weheliyaan gacmo qurxoon iyo duudduubyo, ayaa dharka siinaya dareen dhaqdhaqaaq ah. Tolmooyin badan ayaa gacanta lagu tolay, maadaama maryuhu jilicsan yihiin.
The Recognition
About the Abaalmarinta Lacagta ah ee A' Design Award
Turquerie Primary Function: Uruurin Dharka Haweenka waa guuleystaha Abaalmarinta Lacagta ah ee A' Design Award, aqoonsi sharaf aad u sarreeya oo la siiyo naqshado heerka ugu sarreeya oo quruxsan oo soo jiidasho leh. Guuleystayaasha Lacagta waa shaqooyin aad u dhalaalaya iyo hal-abuur sare leh oo muujiya khibrad, hibo iyo hufnaan naqshadeeyayaashooda. Turquerie Primary Function: Uruurin Dharka Haweenka waa shaqo la filayo inay noqoto shaqo quruxsan oo tusaale ah, xirfad cad leh oo hal-abuur qoto dheer leh. Naqshadahan ku guuleystay Abaalmarinta Lacagta ah ee A' Design Award waa hal-abuur aad loo dareemo oo la ammaano, waxtar leh oo hormariya xuduudaha farshaxanka, sayniska, naqshadaynta iyo tignoolajiyada. Turquerie Primary Function: Uruurin Dharka Haweenka waa hal-abuur dad badan ay doonayaan, kicisa rabitaanno, keena dareenno wanaagsan oo abuura yaab.
Behind the Design
Press Kit
Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.
- Unique Properties
- Turquerie is a maximalist collection, dynamic, full of textile ornaments, colours, embellishments, accessories, jewelleries and other decorations, all intended to eloquently reflect the Ottoman influence sheltering a modern allure. Luxury materials such as jacquards, velvet, chiffon create both chromatic contrast and fluidity, furthermore enriching the simple shapes and the clean modern lines. Made of six silhouettes, it gives a wide range of outfits to choose from, for every occasion.
- Dimensions & Packaging
- The entire collection consists of 6 looks, 10 custom made pieces. Size XS to M.
- Tags
- Turquerie, velvet, jacquard, chiffon, modern, classic, couture.
- Production Technology
- Due to the delicate nature of the fabrics, the collection has a lot of hand sewn stitches, approaching the old school techniques. It is composed of six silhouettes: 1. A modern velvet jumpsuit, 2. A classic velvet suit with jacquard vest with a mosque like ornament, 3. a jaquard tunic with chiffon layered sleeves, 4. a jaquard ornamented dress with a chiffon kaftan with ruffled sleeves, 5. A chiffon dress with a striped golden jacquard overcoat. 6. A chiffon maxi dress, with a long velvet vest.
- Design Challenge
- Some of the challenges that arose during the process were: 1) the volume of labour was daunting for one person (CAD pattern making, cutting and sewing the cotton mock-ups, cutting and sewing the final pieces, multiple fittings and alterations); 2) the gentle and delicate fabrics needed special care (plenty of stitches had been hand sewn: velvet ). 3)the project involved an extensive research part as well, since it served as final course work for the author's Textile Engineering Degree.
- Research
- The research focuses on the Ottoman Empire: the tolerance they displayed towards vasal nations, the social role they attributed to women, the majesty of their culture and their ability to embrace foreign influences in order to enrich their own culture. This inspired the author to find balance between her Moldovan roots and her addictive love towards other cultures. Still, it was a risky yet good decision to pin the Ottoman inspiration against a Moldovan ethnic background for the campaign shooting.
- Inspiration
- The majestic Ottoman Empire served as inspiration for this collection. Tolerant ottoman politics implemented towards conquered territories resulted in a rich, colourful cultural life which upheld a harmonious interaction between the arts. Thus, a mix of byzantine, european and persan influences flourished in the turkish culture. The collection and its campaign illustrates both the refined esthetics of the Ottoman Empire and their open-minded approach to foreign cultures. Being shot in a folkloric Moldovan background, it emphasizes the importance of interaction between nations and encourages the viewer to open his heart to the multitude of the different cultures, since every person is a sum of the many peoples and nations that his ancestors had crossed. Evreyone has in his cells a richness of colour, energy and temper of so many unknown to him individuals who fill his genealogy up, people who had their joy and happiness, sufferings and burdens, but nevertheless, they had gifted the modern man a part of themselves.
- Project Duration
- The project had begun in September 2016 and was completed in June 2017. It served as the final project for the Textile Engineering degree, part of the University graduation. The idea of placing the collection in the Moldovan rustic background for the campaign came in early 2020, whilst the shooting took place in September 2020.
- Operation Flow
- The collection dynamics are conveyed by the layering of fabrics which differ in density, opacity and colour. The dynamics are obtained by the stylization of the sleeves, which creates a rhythmic movement of flounces; different velvet textures; expressive jacquards and a playful dance of transparencies.
- Image Credits
- Image #1, #2, #3, #4, #5
Photographer: Sergiu Rotaru, 2020
Styling: Corina Croitor
Model: Sabrina Danilova
Model: Valeria Untu
Model: Maria-Magdalena Cucu
Video credits: Corina Croitor
Video Montage: Selina Paladi
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