Reinterpretation Of Changshan Dhar by Tong Tong

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Dhar by Tong Tong is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2024 Abaalmarinta Naxaasta ah ee A' Design Award in Naqshadeynta Fashaniga, Dharka iyo Lebiska Competition Category.

NaxaasFashani· 2024

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Dhar

by Tong Tong

Abaalmarinta Naxaasta ah ee A' Design Award Winner in Fashani Category

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Colors

The Design

About Reinterpretation Of Changshan Dhar

Naqshaddu waxay murweeyaa quruxda weligeed jirta ee Changshan, oo ah dhar dhaqameed Shiinees ah oo la qadariyo oo ragga loo talagalay. Iyada oo soo jiidaneysa qaabkeeda casriyeysan, dib-u-fasiraaddan si haboon ayey ugu isku darsataa dhaxalka iyo hal-abuurka. Tolmooyinka tooska ah iyo jeebabka si qarsoodi ah loo dhex daray waxay kor u qaadaan hawlgalnimada iyagoo ilaalinaya edebka. Waxaa laga sameeyey dhar suufka wareegga sare leh oo twill ah, wuxuuna bixiyaa taageero qaab-dhismeed iyo muuqaal aan jajabo lahayn. Iyada oo loo adeegsanayo hababka tolmaha ee taxadarka leh, caqabadda dib-u-qaabeynta qoorta ayaa laga gudbay iyada oo la hubinayo labadaba qaloocyo jilicsan iyo xasilloonida qaab-dhismeedka.

The Recognition

About the Abaalmarinta Naxaasta ah ee A' Design Award

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Dhar waa guuleystaha Abaalmarinta Naxaasta ah ee A' Design Award, aqoonsi sharaf sare leh oo la siiyo naqshado aan caadi ahayn oo lagu garto hal-abuur, hal-abuur cusub iyo caqli. Guuleystayaasha Naxaasta waa shaqooyin xirfad buuxda leh iyo hal-abuur yaab leh oo xaqiijiya khibrad weyn, male-awaal iyo kartida naqshadeeyayaashooda. Reinterpretation Of Changshan Dhar waa walax la filayo inay noqoto mid aad loo tixgeliyo, la ixtiraamo oo la jecel yahay, xirfad cad leh oo hal-abuur cusub leh. Naqshadahan ku guuleystay Abaalmarinta Naxaasta ah ee A' Design Award wuxuu ku darsadaa hab-dhaqanno ugu wanaagsan farshaxanka, sayniska, naqshadaynta iyo tignoolajiyada wuxuuna ku fiican yahay dhawrista tafaasiisha. Reinterpretation Of Changshan Dhar si fiican ayay u buuxisaa baahiyaha, taabataa rabitaannada, soo jiidataa dareenka kicinayaanna xiisaha aqoonta.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
Dimensions & Packaging: Full-body Length
Tags: Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
Production Technology: A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
Design Challenge: The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
Research: Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
Inspiration: This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
Project Duration: This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
Operation Flow: The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
Team Members: Tong Tong
Image Credits: Image #1-5 Photographer：Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023