Sarah Unazë by Anna-Reetta Vaananen is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2022 Çmimi i Bronztë A' Design Award in Dizajni i Bizhuterisë Competition Category.

BronziBizhuteri· 2022

Sarah Unazë

by Anna-Reetta Vaananen

Client: Anna's Darling

Çmimi i Bronztë A' Design Award Winner in Bizhuteri Category

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Colors

The Design

About Sarah Unazë

Sarah është një unazë prej ari e frymëzuar nga një kultivar bozhoreje dhe nga aktorja në nder të së cilës është quajtur, Sarah Bernhard. Unaza duket njëkohësisht solide dhe delikate, ashtu si vetë lulja. Pamja e saj ndryshon në varësi të këndit të shikimit. Sarah është krijuar prej ari të verdhë 585 të ricikluar, duke përdorur teknikat e derdhjes me dylli të humbur dhe të pllakës së argjendarit. Shtresat e lules janë formuar duke rrëshqitur dyllin e shkrirë mbi një vegël sferike hekuri, më pas janë derdhur në ar, janë lustruar dhe janë bashkuar me tel ari duke përdorur vetëm disa saldime. Dizajni bashkon bizhuterinë e veshshme me artin.

The Recognition

About the Çmimi i Bronztë A' Design Award

Sarah Unazë është fitues i Çmimit të Bronztë A' Design Award, një njohje shumë prestigjioze që u akordohet dizajneve të shquara, të dalluara për krijimtari, shpikësi dhe mprehtësi. Fituesit e Bronztë janë objekte shumë të aftë dhe goditëse në krijimtarinë e tyre, që vërtetojnë përvojën e gjerë, imagjinatën dhe shkathtësinë e dizajnerëve të tyre. Sarah Unazë pritet të jetë një objekt shumë i vlerësuar, i admiruar e i dashur, jashtëzakonisht profesional dhe inovativ. Ky dizajn fitues i Çmimit të Bronztë A' Design Award përfshin praktikat më të mira në art, shkencë, dizajn dhe teknologji dhe shquhet për vëmendjen ndaj detajeve. Sarah Unazë i plotëson shkëlqyeshëm nevojat, prek dëshirat, magjepson ndjenjat dhe tërheq kureshtjen.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: Sarah ring is made from gold with lost wax casting and goldsmith plate techniques. The ring is massive and fragile at the same time. Sarah jewelry has been inspired by peony and the very first superstar Sarah Bernhard. This design is unique combination of good usability and art jewelry at the same time. From each angle it is different and gives an impression of hand made artefact and unique piece of art.
Dimensions & Packaging: Material 585 yellow gold
Size of the flower 21 mm x 14 mm
Width of the ring 4 mm
Size of the ring varies.
Weight of the ring 19 g in ring size 17.
Tags: ring, goldring, flowerjewelry, peony, sarahbernhard, lostwaxcasting
Production Technology: Sarah ring is made with lost wax casting and goldsmith plate techniques from recycled 585 yellow gold. Original flower pieces were made by melting wax and forming the flower pieces drop by drop on top of an iron sphere. The ring part is made from gold plate by hand. After casting the wax made flower pieces it was all joined together with supporting and visual adding gold wire with only three solders.
Design Challenge: In this Sarah design process were used scketching and model making techniques before moving in to experimental form giving. The biggest challenge was to create something new that does not only imitate nature and flower but expresses the desired character of nature, human being and a time era. These all were to adapt in to wearable and beautiful jewelry.
Research: For the Sarah project background was to gather visual material about the peony flower construction and appearance. The flower character was as important as the actress Sarah Bernhard who had given her name to this one particular peony. To accomplish this final ring form there were movies to watch, Muchas posters to see and peony blossoms to tear down. The biggest insight was to create more than nature had given in to a usable and pretentious ring.
Inspiration: Sarah design project started from the love towards gardens beauties sarah bernhard peonies that are multilayered lush and fragile. Peony got its name from the worlds first superstar Sarah Bernhard. This actress and courtesan has given her face to a nature inspired Art Nouveau period by artist Alphonse Muchas paintbrush. This one particular peony cultivar has also been named after her perhaps because of their look alike in looks and in essence. Sarah ring embodies them both woman and the flower.
Project Duration: Project started in July 2020 and finished in June 2021, and was exhibited in June 2021 in Sonkajarvi Finland.
Operation Flow: Challenge was to make original and interesting design. Sarah form giving started with molding wax sheets and adding melted wax on a sphere tool. Wax models were lost wax casted in to gold and then best forms for the flower part were chosen. Casted gold layers were grinded polishes and soldered together with one gold wire. Parts were elevated from each other with slugs to lift the flower layers and make it lively and light. The design is made so there would be as little solders as possible.
Patents: All right belong to Anna-Reetta Väänänen, Anna's Darling Ky, Sonkajärvi, Finland
Image Credits: Image #1: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Image #2: Photographer Elina Manninen, Model Johanna Nordblad, 2021
Image #3: Photographer Elina Manninen, Model Johanna Nordblad, 2021
Image #4: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Image #5: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Video Credits: Valtteri Kantanen, 2021