Sarah Nhẫn by Anna-Reetta Vaananen is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2022 A' Design Award Đồng in Thiết kế Trang sức Competition Category.

ĐồngTrang sức· 2022

Sarah Nhẫn

by Anna-Reetta Vaananen

Client: Anna's Darling

A' Design Award Đồng Winner in Trang sức Category

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Colors

The Design

About Sarah Nhẫn

Sarah là một chiếc nhẫn vàng lấy cảm hứng từ một giống hoa mẫu đơn (peony) và từ nữ diễn viên mà nó được đặt theo tên, Sarah Bernhardt. Chiếc nhẫn trông vừa vững chắc vừa mềm mại, tinh tế, giống như chính bông hoa vậy. Vẻ ngoài của nó thay đổi tùy theo góc nhìn. Sarah được làm từ vàng vàng 585 tái chế bằng kỹ thuật đúc sáp thất lạc (lost wax casting) và kỹ thuật tấm kim hoàn (goldsmith plate). Các lớp hoa được tạo hình bằng cách nhỏ sáp nóng chảy lên một dụng cụ hình cầu bằng sắt, sau đó được đúc bằng vàng, đánh bóng và ghép nối bằng dây vàng chỉ với một vài điểm hàn. Thiết kế này kết hợp giữa trang sức có thể đeo và nghệ thuật.

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award Đồng

Sarah Nhẫn là người chiến thắng giải thưởng A' Design Award Đồng, một sự công nhận vô cùng danh giá dành cho các thiết kế xuất sắc nổi bật về sự sáng tạo, tài khéo léo và sự sắc sảo. Những người chiến thắng giải Đồng là những hiện vật rất điêu luyện và sáng tạo ấn tượng, xác thực kinh nghiệm phong phú, trí tưởng tượng và sự tháo vát của các nhà thiết kế. Sarah Nhẫn được kỳ vọng là một vật phẩm được đánh giá cao, ngưỡng mộ và trân trọng, chuyên nghiệp và đổi mới đáng chú ý. Thiết kế chiến thắng giải thưởng A' Design Award Đồng này tích hợp các thực hành tốt nhất trong nghệ thuật, khoa học, thiết kế và công nghệ, và xuất sắc nhờ sự chú ý đến chi tiết. Sarah Nhẫn thỏa mãn nhu cầu một cách tuyệt vời, chạm đến ham muốn, làm say mê cảm xúc và thu hút sự tò mò.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: Sarah ring is made from gold with lost wax casting and goldsmith plate techniques. The ring is massive and fragile at the same time. Sarah jewelry has been inspired by peony and the very first superstar Sarah Bernhard. This design is unique combination of good usability and art jewelry at the same time. From each angle it is different and gives an impression of hand made artefact and unique piece of art.
Dimensions & Packaging: Material 585 yellow gold
Size of the flower 21 mm x 14 mm
Width of the ring 4 mm
Size of the ring varies.
Weight of the ring 19 g in ring size 17.
Tags: ring, goldring, flowerjewelry, peony, sarahbernhard, lostwaxcasting
Production Technology: Sarah ring is made with lost wax casting and goldsmith plate techniques from recycled 585 yellow gold. Original flower pieces were made by melting wax and forming the flower pieces drop by drop on top of an iron sphere. The ring part is made from gold plate by hand. After casting the wax made flower pieces it was all joined together with supporting and visual adding gold wire with only three solders.
Design Challenge: In this Sarah design process were used scketching and model making techniques before moving in to experimental form giving. The biggest challenge was to create something new that does not only imitate nature and flower but expresses the desired character of nature, human being and a time era. These all were to adapt in to wearable and beautiful jewelry.
Research: For the Sarah project background was to gather visual material about the peony flower construction and appearance. The flower character was as important as the actress Sarah Bernhard who had given her name to this one particular peony. To accomplish this final ring form there were movies to watch, Muchas posters to see and peony blossoms to tear down. The biggest insight was to create more than nature had given in to a usable and pretentious ring.
Inspiration: Sarah design project started from the love towards gardens beauties sarah bernhard peonies that are multilayered lush and fragile. Peony got its name from the worlds first superstar Sarah Bernhard. This actress and courtesan has given her face to a nature inspired Art Nouveau period by artist Alphonse Muchas paintbrush. This one particular peony cultivar has also been named after her perhaps because of their look alike in looks and in essence. Sarah ring embodies them both woman and the flower.
Project Duration: Project started in July 2020 and finished in June 2021, and was exhibited in June 2021 in Sonkajarvi Finland.
Operation Flow: Challenge was to make original and interesting design. Sarah form giving started with molding wax sheets and adding melted wax on a sphere tool. Wax models were lost wax casted in to gold and then best forms for the flower part were chosen. Casted gold layers were grinded polishes and soldered together with one gold wire. Parts were elevated from each other with slugs to lift the flower layers and make it lively and light. The design is made so there would be as little solders as possible.
Patents: All right belong to Anna-Reetta Väänänen, Anna's Darling Ky, Sonkajärvi, Finland
Image Credits: Image #1: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Image #2: Photographer Elina Manninen, Model Johanna Nordblad, 2021
Image #3: Photographer Elina Manninen, Model Johanna Nordblad, 2021
Image #4: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Image #5: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Video Credits: Valtteri Kantanen, 2021