Origins Trâm Cài Và Vòng Cổ by Paloma Sanchez

Origins Trâm Cài Và Vòng Cổ by Paloma Sanchez is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2023 A' Design Award Bạc in Thiết kế Trang sức Competition Category.

BạcTrang sức· 2023

Origins Trâm Cài Và Vòng Cổ

by Paloma Sanchez

Client: Paloma Sanchez The Art of Jewelry

A' Design Award Bạc Winner in Trang sức Category

47,002

Verified Award Winner

Verify Award Status for #147765

Visit Site View at A' Design Award Press Release Award Badge

Colors

The Design

About Origins Trâm Cài Và Vòng Cổ

Được chế tác từ vàng 18kt bằng kỹ thuật đúc sáp, chiếc vòng cổ có đầu Anishinaabe Harpoon vào năm 1000 sau Công nguyên được tìm thấy ở vùng Great Lakes, được bổ sung hoàn hảo bởi ngọc trai và kim cương Akoya của Nhật Bản. Ban đầu được sử dụng làm mũi lao, mảnh đồng đáng chú ý này là một mẫu vật quý hiếm thường được tìm thấy trong các viện bảo tàng. Với sự tôn trọng sâu sắc đối với lịch sử, món đồ trang sức này thổi sức sống mới vào những kho báu cổ xưa. Thông qua nghệ thuật chế tác đồ trang sức, thiết kế này thể hiện ý chí và niềm tin vào việc mang lại mục đích mới cho những đồ tạo tác có giá trị.

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award Bạc

Origins Trâm Cài Và Vòng Cổ là người chiến thắng giải thưởng A' Design Award Bạc, một sự công nhận đặc biệt danh giá dành cho các thiết kế thượng hạng đẹp lộng lẫy, cao quý và gây ấn tượng. Những người chiến thắng giải Bạc là những tác phẩm cực kỳ xuất sắc và giàu sáng tạo, minh họa chuyên môn, tài năng và sự nhạy bén nổi bật của các nhà thiết kế. Origins Trâm Cài Và Vòng Cổ được kỳ vọng là một tác phẩm tuyệt vời, mẫu mực, chuyên nghiệp đáng kể và đổi mới sâu sắc. Thiết kế chiến thắng giải thưởng A' Design Award Bạc này là một phát minh rất đáng chú ý, được ngưỡng mộ, mang lại lợi ích và thúc đẩy ranh giới của nghệ thuật, khoa học, thiết kế và công nghệ. Origins Trâm Cài Và Vòng Cổ là một sáng tạo được vô cùng ghen tị, khơi dậy ham muốn, mang lại cảm xúc tích cực và khơi gợi sự kinh ngạc, thán phục.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: This piece pays tribute to the Anishinaabe, the first inhabitants of the Great Lakes area, and their rich history. The centerpiece of the design is a 3,000-year-old copper spear point fishing tool, which has been transformed into a piece of art jewelry.

Through the lens of jewelry-making, this design represents our will and belief in giving new life and purpose to ancient treasures. The combination of textures - the roughness of the old copper, the warm smoothness of the pearls, and the cold fire of the diamonds - creates a truly unique and captivating piece.

This committed art jewelry also celebrates the importance of our shared history and the importance of repurposing antique treasures to create something new and inspiring. It is a tribute to the resilience of humankind, the power of nature, and the artistry of those who came before us.
Dimensions & Packaging: Gold: 6,85g
Diamonds: 40 x 0.008cts round brilliant cut VVS diamonds Total weight of diamonds: 0.32cts
Pearls: 2 Akoya pearls, 6mm, and 5.5mm
Brooch: 10cm x 1,3cm to 2mm
Tags: jewelry, gold, brooch, necklace, First Nations, Anishinaabe, Necklace, Brooch, Unique, One of a Kind, Design, Repurpose, Museum piece, Antique, Art, Jewelry, Gold,
Production Technology: The brooch is hand-crafted in 18kt gold using a casting technique. The Anishinaabe Harpoon head (1000 B.C.) was found in the Great Lakes area and is married with Japanese Akoya pearls and Diamonds. It is important to note that this copper piece was initially used as a harpoon point (harpoons were made of wood and, therefore, would break easily. The copper point was meant to harden the end of the harpoon. The Anishinaabe did not know the iron, only copper, as there was a considerable copper source in the Great Lakes area.) such specimens tend to be found in museums.
As the cooper spear point has a cylindrical body, we designed the back of the brooch with two needles in order to guarantee complete stability, making sure that the face of the brooch always looks forward when worn, avoiding it rolling towards one side or the other. We managed to keep these two needles completely invisible when worn.
Design Challenge: The production of this piece presented two main challenges. Firstly, we aimed to maximize its utility while still conveying the Anishinaabe worldview in a contemporary context. This required a creative approach rather than just technical expertise. The brooch had to be comfortable to wear, visually appealing, and function as both a necklace and brooch, all while portraying the connection with nature and refinement of the First Nations.

During the early stages of the design, our challenge was primarily centered around how to ensure that the harpoon sat straight on the collar of a blouse or the lapel of a jacket, while keeping the functional structure invisible and comfortable to wear as a necklace. To achieve this, we developed a two-needle system that runs along 50% of the harpoon, with an invisible clasp at the top to allow a chain to pass through and use the harpoon point as a necklace. With the clasp centered and the two needles acting as counterweights and stoppers, the harpoon remains in a forward-facing position, whether worn as a necklace or a brooch.
The second challenge arose during the manufacturing process, as the harpoon is a delicate museum piece that cannot be subjected to high pressures or temperatures, or its texture and color could change. Furthermore, to respect its bond with nature, we had to ensure zero waste during production. To achieve this, we first hand-sculpted a wax mold that was then fitted precisely to the harpoon. We used this mold to cast the 18kts gold front enhancements in which the future diamonds would be set, as well as the brooch needles and the back adorns. Finally, the dorsal 18k gold structure was delicately adjusted to the harpoon to create the final product.

To showcase the piece´s deep connection to nature and portray the Anishinaabe’s skilled craftsmanship, we chose to incorporate natural gems with contrasting textures. The smooth, white spheres of the pearls beautifully contrast with the oxidized roughness of the copper, while the diamonds add a luminous quality to the piece that allows it to radiate its own light.
We believe these contrasting textures reflect the Anishinaabe worldview, which values the complementary nature of all things in the natural world. The smoothness of the pearls represents the calmness and tranquility found in nature, while the roughness of the copper represents the strength and resilience required to thrive in the natural world. The diamonds, with their brilliant radiance, represent the beauty and wonder of nature.
Through our design, we sought to pay homage to the Anishinaabe's sophisticated craftsmanship and their deep reverence for nature. The result is a piece that exudes luxurious allure while remaining faithful to the Anishinaabe worldview.
Inspiration: This piece is inspired by human history and diversity, as well as the importance of giving a new life to antique tools.
Project Duration: The project started in Michigan, USA, in January 2020 and was finished in our Beijing Atelier by the end of October 2020. It was exhibited at the Beijing Art and Design Fair in May 2021.
Operation Flow: The piece is a brooch that can be used as a necklace with the addition of a chain.
Team Members: Paloma Sanchez
Image Credits: Image #1: Creator Paloma Sanchez The Art of Jewelry, Origins, 2021.
Image #2: Creator Paloma Sanchez The Art of Jewelry, Origins model necklace, 2021.
Image #3: Creator Paloma Sanchez The Art of Jewelry, Origins model brooch, 2021.
Video Credits: Creator Paloma Sanchez The Art of Jewelry, Origins, 2021.