Reinterpretation Of Changshan Ingubo by Tong Tong

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Ingubo by Tong Tong is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2024 Ibhaso Lebhronzi le-A' Design Award in Uyilo lweFashoni, Isinxibo kunye neSambatho Competition Category.

IbhronziIfashoni· 2024

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Ingubo

by Tong Tong

Ibhaso Lebhronzi le-A' Design Award Winner in Ifashoni Category

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Verified Award Winner

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Colors

The Design

About Reinterpretation Of Changshan Ingubo

Uyilo uhlonipha ubuhle obungunaphakade be-Changshan, ingubo yemveli yaseTshayina ehloniphekileyo yamadoda. Ngokuvuselela isimo sayo esicokisekileyo, olu tolikiso ludibanisa ngokugqibeleleyo ilifa nobuqhetseba. Iintambo ezithe nkqo kunye neepokotho ezifakwe ngobuchule zonyusa ukusebenza ngelixa zigcina ukuzithoba. Yenziwe ngoboya beegusha obujikelezwe kakhulu, ibonelela ngenkxaso yesakhiwo nenkangeleko engenaminxingo. Ngokusebenzisa iindlela zokuthungela ezicokisekileyo, umngeni wokuphinda ucinge ngomqala wempahla uwoyiswa ngelixa kuqinisekiswa zombini iigophe ezigudileyo kunye nokuzinza kwesakhiwo.

The Recognition

About the Ibhaso Lebhronzi le-A' Design Award

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Ingubo ngumphumeleli weIbhaso Lebhronzi le-A' Design Award, ukuqatshelwa okuhlonitshwayo kakhulu okunikwa imiyilo ephawulekayo eyahlukaniswa kukuyila, ubukrelekrele nobukrelekrele. Abaphumeleleyo beBhronzi ziimveliso ezinobuchule obukhulu nezidala ngokumangalisayo ezingqina amava aphangaleleyo, ukucinga nokwazi ukuzenzela kwabayili bazo. Reinterpretation Of Changshan Ingubo iyathenjwa ukuba ibe yimpahla exatyiswa kakhulu, edunyiswayo nethandwayo enobungcali obuphawulekayo nezinto ezintsha. Lo myilo uphumeleleyo weIbhaso Lebhronzi le-A' Design Award ubandakanya iindlela ezilungileyo kakhulu kubugcisa, inzululwazi, uyilo kunye nobuchwephesha kwaye ugqwesile ngenxa yokunikela ingqalelo kwiinkcukacha. Reinterpretation Of Changshan Ingubo iyanelisa iimfuno ngokumangalisayo, ichukumisa iinqwenelo, ikhwebela iimvakalelo kwaye itsala umdla.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
Dimensions & Packaging: Full-body Length
Tags: Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
Production Technology: A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
Design Challenge: The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
Research: Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
Inspiration: This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
Project Duration: This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
Operation Flow: The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
Team Members: Tong Tong
Image Credits: Image #1-5 Photographer：Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023