Sarah 戒指

设计师： Anna-Reetta Vaananen

客户: Anna's Darling

珠宝类别A' Design Award 铜奖获奖者

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设计作品

关于 Sarah 戒指

Sarah是一枚黄金戒指，其灵感源自一个牡丹品种，以及这一品种所纪念的女演员莎拉·伯恩哈特。这枚戒指同时呈现出坚实与纤柔的双重气质，恰如花朵本身。随着观赏角度的变化，戒指也呈现出不同的面貌。Sarah采用再生585黄金制作，运用失蜡铸造与金工板材工艺完成。花瓣层次是通过将熔化的蜡滴落在铁球工具上塑形而成，随后铸成黄金，经过抛光，并仅用少量焊点以金丝相连接。该设计将可佩戴的珠宝与艺术融为一体。

荣誉认可

关于A' Design Award 铜奖

Sarah 戒指是 A' Design Award 铜奖得主，这是授予以创造力、独创性和敏锐见长的杰出设计的极具声望的认可。铜奖得主是技艺娴熟、创意惊人的作品，印证了其设计师丰富的经验、想象力与机智。预计Sarah 戒指将成为一件备受推崇、令人钦佩且被珍爱的物品，兼具显著的专业性与创新性。这件赢得 A' Design Award 铜奖的设计融入艺术、科学、设计和技术领域的最佳实践，并因注重细节而出类拔萃。Sarah 戒指出色地满足需求，触动渴望，迷住情感，并吸引好奇心。

设计幕后

媒体资料包

由设计师提供的致谢、团队成员及技术详情。

独特属性: Sarah ring is made from gold with lost wax casting and goldsmith plate techniques. The ring is massive and fragile at the same time. Sarah jewelry has been inspired by peony and the very first superstar Sarah Bernhard. This design is unique combination of good usability and art jewelry at the same time. From each angle it is different and gives an impression of hand made artefact and unique piece of art.
尺寸与包装: Material 585 yellow gold
Size of the flower 21 mm x 14 mm
Width of the ring 4 mm
Size of the ring varies.
Weight of the ring 19 g in ring size 17.
标签: ring, goldring, flowerjewelry, peony, sarahbernhard, lostwaxcasting
生产技术: Sarah ring is made with lost wax casting and goldsmith plate techniques from recycled 585 yellow gold. Original flower pieces were made by melting wax and forming the flower pieces drop by drop on top of an iron sphere. The ring part is made from gold plate by hand. After casting the wax made flower pieces it was all joined together with supporting and visual adding gold wire with only three solders.
设计挑战: In this Sarah design process were used scketching and model making techniques before moving in to experimental form giving. The biggest challenge was to create something new that does not only imitate nature and flower but expresses the desired character of nature, human being and a time era. These all were to adapt in to wearable and beautiful jewelry.
研究: For the Sarah project background was to gather visual material about the peony flower construction and appearance. The flower character was as important as the actress Sarah Bernhard who had given her name to this one particular peony. To accomplish this final ring form there were movies to watch, Muchas posters to see and peony blossoms to tear down. The biggest insight was to create more than nature had given in to a usable and pretentious ring.
灵感: Sarah design project started from the love towards gardens beauties sarah bernhard peonies that are multilayered lush and fragile. Peony got its name from the worlds first superstar Sarah Bernhard. This actress and courtesan has given her face to a nature inspired Art Nouveau period by artist Alphonse Muchas paintbrush. This one particular peony cultivar has also been named after her perhaps because of their look alike in looks and in essence. Sarah ring embodies them both woman and the flower.
项目周期: Project started in July 2020 and finished in June 2021, and was exhibited in June 2021 in Sonkajarvi Finland.
操作流程: Challenge was to make original and interesting design. Sarah form giving started with molding wax sheets and adding melted wax on a sphere tool. Wax models were lost wax casted in to gold and then best forms for the flower part were chosen. Casted gold layers were grinded polishes and soldered together with one gold wire. Parts were elevated from each other with slugs to lift the flower layers and make it lively and light. The design is made so there would be as little solders as possible.
专利: All right belong to Anna-Reetta Väänänen, Anna's Darling Ky, Sonkajärvi, Finland
图片版权: Image #1: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Image #2: Photographer Elina Manninen, Model Johanna Nordblad, 2021
Image #3: Photographer Elina Manninen, Model Johanna Nordblad, 2021
Image #4: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Image #5: Photographer Tuomo Jalkanen, Alias Creative, 2021
Video Credits: Valtteri Kantanen, 2021