Origins 胸针和项链 by Paloma Sanchez is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2023 A' Design Award 银奖 in 珠宝设计 Competition Category.

银珠宝· 2023

Origins 胸针和项链

by Paloma Sanchez

Client: Paloma Sanchez The Art of Jewelry

A' Design Award 银奖 Winner in 珠宝 Category

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Colors

The Design

About Origins 胸针和项链

该项链采用蜡铸技术采用 18kt 金精制而成，拥有公元 1000 年在五大湖地区发现的 Anishinaabe 鱼叉头，与日本 Akoya 珍珠和钻石完美搭配。这件非凡的铜件最初用作鱼叉尖，是博物馆中常见的稀有标本。怀着对历史的深深尊重，这款珠宝为古老的珍宝注入了新的生命。通过珠宝制作艺术，该设计代表了赋予珍贵文物新用途的意愿和信念。

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award 银奖

Origins 胸针和项链是 A' Design Award 银奖得主，这是授予顶级、华美而令人印象深刻的设计的极为崇高的认可。银奖得主是极其卓越、极具创造力的作品，展现出其设计师杰出的专业技能、才华与敏锐。预计Origins 胸针和项链将成为一件出色的典范之作，兼具非凡的专业性与深刻的创新性。这件赢得 A' Design Award 银奖的设计是一项备受瞩目、令人钦佩的发明，造福并拓展艺术、科学、设计和技术的边界。Origins 胸针和项链是一件令人羡慕的创作，它唤起渴望，带来积极的情感，并激发惊叹与赞叹。

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: This piece pays tribute to the Anishinaabe, the first inhabitants of the Great Lakes area, and their rich history. The centerpiece of the design is a 3,000-year-old copper spear point fishing tool, which has been transformed into a piece of art jewelry.

Through the lens of jewelry-making, this design represents our will and belief in giving new life and purpose to ancient treasures. The combination of textures - the roughness of the old copper, the warm smoothness of the pearls, and the cold fire of the diamonds - creates a truly unique and captivating piece.

This committed art jewelry also celebrates the importance of our shared history and the importance of repurposing antique treasures to create something new and inspiring. It is a tribute to the resilience of humankind, the power of nature, and the artistry of those who came before us.
Dimensions & Packaging: Gold: 6,85g
Diamonds: 40 x 0.008cts round brilliant cut VVS diamonds Total weight of diamonds: 0.32cts
Pearls: 2 Akoya pearls, 6mm, and 5.5mm
Brooch: 10cm x 1,3cm to 2mm
Tags: jewelry, gold, brooch, necklace, First Nations, Anishinaabe, Necklace, Brooch, Unique, One of a Kind, Design, Repurpose, Museum piece, Antique, Art, Jewelry, Gold,
Production Technology: The brooch is hand-crafted in 18kt gold using a casting technique. The Anishinaabe Harpoon head (1000 B.C.) was found in the Great Lakes area and is married with Japanese Akoya pearls and Diamonds. It is important to note that this copper piece was initially used as a harpoon point (harpoons were made of wood and, therefore, would break easily. The copper point was meant to harden the end of the harpoon. The Anishinaabe did not know the iron, only copper, as there was a considerable copper source in the Great Lakes area.) such specimens tend to be found in museums.
As the cooper spear point has a cylindrical body, we designed the back of the brooch with two needles in order to guarantee complete stability, making sure that the face of the brooch always looks forward when worn, avoiding it rolling towards one side or the other. We managed to keep these two needles completely invisible when worn.
Design Challenge: The production of this piece presented two main challenges. Firstly, we aimed to maximize its utility while still conveying the Anishinaabe worldview in a contemporary context. This required a creative approach rather than just technical expertise. The brooch had to be comfortable to wear, visually appealing, and function as both a necklace and brooch, all while portraying the connection with nature and refinement of the First Nations.

During the early stages of the design, our challenge was primarily centered around how to ensure that the harpoon sat straight on the collar of a blouse or the lapel of a jacket, while keeping the functional structure invisible and comfortable to wear as a necklace. To achieve this, we developed a two-needle system that runs along 50% of the harpoon, with an invisible clasp at the top to allow a chain to pass through and use the harpoon point as a necklace. With the clasp centered and the two needles acting as counterweights and stoppers, the harpoon remains in a forward-facing position, whether worn as a necklace or a brooch.
The second challenge arose during the manufacturing process, as the harpoon is a delicate museum piece that cannot be subjected to high pressures or temperatures, or its texture and color could change. Furthermore, to respect its bond with nature, we had to ensure zero waste during production. To achieve this, we first hand-sculpted a wax mold that was then fitted precisely to the harpoon. We used this mold to cast the 18kts gold front enhancements in which the future diamonds would be set, as well as the brooch needles and the back adorns. Finally, the dorsal 18k gold structure was delicately adjusted to the harpoon to create the final product.

To showcase the piece´s deep connection to nature and portray the Anishinaabe’s skilled craftsmanship, we chose to incorporate natural gems with contrasting textures. The smooth, white spheres of the pearls beautifully contrast with the oxidized roughness of the copper, while the diamonds add a luminous quality to the piece that allows it to radiate its own light.
We believe these contrasting textures reflect the Anishinaabe worldview, which values the complementary nature of all things in the natural world. The smoothness of the pearls represents the calmness and tranquility found in nature, while the roughness of the copper represents the strength and resilience required to thrive in the natural world. The diamonds, with their brilliant radiance, represent the beauty and wonder of nature.
Through our design, we sought to pay homage to the Anishinaabe's sophisticated craftsmanship and their deep reverence for nature. The result is a piece that exudes luxurious allure while remaining faithful to the Anishinaabe worldview.
Inspiration: This piece is inspired by human history and diversity, as well as the importance of giving a new life to antique tools.
Project Duration: The project started in Michigan, USA, in January 2020 and was finished in our Beijing Atelier by the end of October 2020. It was exhibited at the Beijing Art and Design Fair in May 2021.
Operation Flow: The piece is a brooch that can be used as a necklace with the addition of a chain.
Team Members: Paloma Sanchez
Image Credits: Image #1: Creator Paloma Sanchez The Art of Jewelry, Origins, 2021.
Image #2: Creator Paloma Sanchez The Art of Jewelry, Origins model necklace, 2021.
Image #3: Creator Paloma Sanchez The Art of Jewelry, Origins model brooch, 2021.
Video Credits: Creator Paloma Sanchez The Art of Jewelry, Origins, 2021.