Umdwebo Reinterpretation Of Changshan Isambatho ngu-Tong Tong ungumnqobi ohlonishwa kakhulu womklomelo odumile we-2024 Umklomelo Webhulonzi we-A' Design Award Esigabeni Somncintiswano se-Ukudizayina Imfashini.
IbhulonziImfashini· 2024
Reinterpretation Of Changshan Isambatho
ngu Tong Tong
Umnqobi we-Umklomelo Webhulonzi we-A' Design Award Esigabeni se-Imfashini
Umnqobi Womklomelo Oqinisekisiwe
Qinisekisa Isimo Somklomelo se-#159036Ukuklama
Mayelana ne-Reinterpretation Of Changshan Isambatho
Lomklamo uhlonipha ubuhle obungunaphakade be-Changshan, ingubo yendabuko yabesilisa base-China ehloniphekayo. Ngokuvusa isithombe sayo esicwengekile, lokhu kuhunyushwa kabusha kuhlanganisa ngokugculisayo ifa kanye nokuqamba okusha. Izithungo ezimile kanye namaphakathi afakwe ngobuciko kwandisa ukusebenza ngenkathi kugcinwa ukuzithoba. Yenziwe nge-wool twill ephothwe kakhulu, inikeza ukwesekwa kwesakhiwo kanye nokubukeka okungenazimvimbo. Ngezindlela zokuthungela ezinakekelayo, inselelo yokuklama kabusha umqala iyeqiwa kuyilapho kuqinisekiswa kokubili amagophe abushelelezi kanye nobuqinile kwesakhiwo.
Ukuqashelwa
Mayelana ne-Umklomelo Webhulonzi we-A' Design Award
Reinterpretation Of Changshan Isambatho iwinile uMklomelo Webhulonzi we-A' Design Award, ukwaziswa okuhloniphekile kakhulu okunikezwa imiklamo ephawulekayo eyehlukaniswa ukudala, ubuhlakani nobukhali bengqondo. Abawinile beBhulonzi yimisebenzi enobuchule obukhulu nedala ngokumangalisayo eqinisekisa isipiliyoni esibanzi, umcabango nobuhlakani babaklami babo. Reinterpretation Of Changshan Isambatho ilindeleke ukuba ibe yinto exatshwa kakhulu, edunyiswayo nethandwayo, enobungcweti obuphawulekayo nezinto ezintsha. Lo mklamo owinile uMklomelo Webhulonzi we-A' Design Award uhlanganisa izindlela ezinhle kakhulu ebuciko, esayensi, ekuklameni nasebuchwepheshe futhi uhamba phambili ngenxa yokunaka kwawo imininingwane. Reinterpretation Of Changshan Isambatho iyanelisa izidingo ngokumangalisayo, ithinta izifiso, iheha imizwa futhi ikhanga ukufuna ukwazi.
Ngemuva Kokuklama
Iphakheji Yabezindaba
Ama-credit, amalungu eqembu nemininingwane yobuchwepheshe ehlinzekwe ngumklami.
- Izici Ezihlukile
- While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
- Izilinganiso Nokupakisha
- Full-body Length
- Amathegi
- Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
- Ubuchwepheshe Bokukhiqiza
- A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
- Inselele Yokudweba
- The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
- Ucwaningo
- Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
- Ugqozi
- This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
- Ubude Bephrojekthi
- This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
- Ukuhamba Kokusebenza
- The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
- Amalungu Eqembu
- Tong Tong
- Amakhredithi Ezithombe
- Image #1-5 Photographer:Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023
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