Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin 嘅作品 Random Puff 4D刺繡服裝

由設計師 Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin 創作嘅 Random Puff 4D刺繡服裝係備受推崇嘅 2023 A' Design Award 鐵獎得獎作品，獲獎類別為紡織設計。

鐵紡織· 2023

Random Puff 4D刺繡服裝

由 Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin

客戶: MIT Media Lab

紡織類別嘅 A' Design Award 鐵獎得獎者

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經驗證嘅獲獎者

驗證設計 #145286 嘅獲獎狀態

訪問網站喺 A' Design Award 查看新聞稿獎項徽章

色彩

設計

關於 Random Puff 4D刺繡服裝

RandomPuff是一款新穎的填充物，採用4D刺繡填充物進行服裝保暖。泡芙最初被製成扁平狀，並在受熱時彈出成圓頂狀。啟動的煙霧將空氣困在外部環境和佩戴者之間，以保持身體溫暖。該開發涉及創建“活性纖維”和“靜態織物”之間相互作用的 4D 刺繡材料庫。設計師和開發人員可以使用運算設計工具與最終用戶合作，創造高科技時尚、個人化和永續的新穎紡織品和紡織品設計。

榮譽認可

關於A' Design Award 鐵獎

Random Puff 4D刺繡服裝是 A' Design Award 鐵獎得主，這是授予滿足人們對設計精良的創作所期待的專業與工業要求的優良設計的聲望認可。鐵獎得主展現出其創作者的高超技藝、高度專業化、專家級的理解力和創造能力。預計Random Puff 4D刺繡服裝將成為一件備受推崇、令人欽佩且被珍愛的創作，既實用又創新。這件贏得 A' Design Award 鐵獎的設計整合了行業最佳實踐，並擁有與專業知識和才華相結合的稱職技術特性。Random Puff 4D刺繡服裝因其嚴謹而受到尊重，旨在提供有助於讓世界變得更美好的生活品質改善。

設計背後

新聞資料包

由設計師提供嘅製作人員名單、團隊成員同技術詳情。

獨特屬性: Random Puff is a garment application leveraging the puffy transformation that traps air within the dome pocket to keep the body warm. The double curvature geometry becomes easily fabricated, and personalizable styling is available through the computational design process, which opens up a new design/manufacturing space for a puffy garment.
尺寸同包裝: 500mm x 30mm x 700mm. However, since it's a garment, it can be fold into the size of 300mm x 20mm x 200mm.
標籤: 4D embroidery
生產技術: Heat-shrink thread. Neoprene. Machine embroidery. Processing visualizer.
設計挑戰: First, the force balance between active thread and static fabric is a fundamental challenge. There is too much fabric out there with labeled information that does not necessarily lead to our purpose. Second, tension issues happen when new threads or fabric are introduced to the machine. It takes a while to calibrate, and sometimes break the machine if the thread is too thick/thin, or the fabric is too thick/slippery/crispy. Third, to achieve the maximized bi-layer bending, we want to vary the force on both sides so that the inner side does not constraint the outer side.
研究: Research background:
This research demonstrates how machine embroidery with heat-shrinking fibers enables existing fabrics to be augmented with morphing fibers.

Methods/Tools:
Similar to sewing, embroidery is a technique of interlacing upper and bottom threads with the substrate in between, but digitally. For the hardware, a desktop, hobbyist embroidery machine can easily execute wanted samples. For the software, I mainly explored PEmbroidery and Inkstitch for different purposes. PEmbroider is an open-source library housed in Processing that offers a procedural coding environment to generate detailed embroidered files at point and line levels. Inkstitch is also an open-source plug-in embedded in Inkscape that provides a graphical user interface, which is more friendly for primary users.

Results/Insight:
I started off the material characterization by testing different substrates with the same embroidery parameters. Out of 10+ fabrics, fabrics that are lightweight with high springness can hold the morphed structure better. A series of embroidery parameters were also tested systematically with stroke width, density, peak-to-peak distance, stitch spacing, and threading material. The fiber actuator can be tuned from crease(low res) to bend(high res) in a linear pattern. The fiber can be arranged in curves, origami creases, or arbitrary shapes to form more complex pop-up geometry.
靈感: Working at a NIKE shoe industry, I realized the challenge of transformation between 3D to 2D or vice versa. There's still no clear solution for the tedious, laborious, wasteful process from prototyping to production.

Working as a R&D at a carbon fiber company, I got to witness the power of machine embroidery, where it can digitally place fibers. This way, it can reinforce the artifact in any direction, replace the lamination thus reducing the material waste, and digitalize the process from start to end.
項目時長: The project started in September 2021 and finished in December 2021 in Cambridge, MA, United States.
操作流程: First, a closed-curve set of circles, squares, or other arbitrary shapes is generated within the area of a 2D clothing. Second, the design file will be translated to an embroidery file via Processing, a visual output, and procedural coding environment. Third, upload the file to a desktop hobbyist embroidery machine and start embroidery. Lastly, the garment comes out flat from the machine and users can customize where to activate the puffs by heating the embroidery pattern with a steamer or iron.
團隊成員: Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin
Skylar Tibbits
Jack Forman
Hiroshi Ishii
圖片來源: All IP, copyright, images, video credits belong to Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin.