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Bio Melanin Fibre Fashion by Khajornsak Nakpan

Bio Melanin Fibre Fashion by Khajornsak Nakpan is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2022 A' Design Award in Textile, Fabric, Textures, Patterns and Cloth Design Competition Category.


IronTextile· 2022

Bio Melanin Fibre Fashion

by Khajornsak Nakpan

Client: Indin

A' Design Award Winner in Textile Category

36,737

Verified Award Winner

Verify Award Status for #127014

Colors

The Design

About Bio Melanin Fibre Fashion

The practice-led research and design investigated the use of soil to create a substitute textile material in Thailand. It aims to maximize the value of natural resources in response to climate change, based on the concept of living in harmony with nature. A bio-fibre was synthesized from soil bacteria through a process that holistically considered the full production cycle, ensuring that it generated no waste. The final material contained melanin pigments similar to human skin tones, with hues comparable to those of people from Thailand.

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award

Bio Melanin Fibre Fashion is an Iron A' Design Award winner, a prestigious recognition granted to good designs that meet the professional and industrial requirements expected from well-designed creations. Iron winners demonstrate great skill, high specialization, expert understanding, and creative capacity of their creators. Bio Melanin Fibre Fashion is expected to be a highly regarded, admired, and cherished creation that is practical and innovative. This Iron A' Design Award-winning design integrates industry best practices and has competent technical characteristics linked with know-how and talent. Bio Melanin Fibre Fashion is respected for its thoroughness and is designed to provide quality of life improvements that help make the world a better place.

Interviews

Design Interview

What is the main principle, idea and inspiration behind your design?

The final material contained melanin pigments similar to human skin tones, with hues comparable to those of people from Thailand.

What has been your main focus in designing this work? Especially what did you want to achieve?

The proposed technology has applications in fashion design, where it can enhance the aesthetics and self-esteem of individuals.

What are your future plans for this award winning design?

This award-winning design help advances Thailand’s national sustainable development, driving creativity through scientific innovation.

Read the Full Interview

Grand Interview

Your innovative approach to synthesizing bio-fibre from soil bacteria in Bio Melanin Fibre Fashion represents a groundbreaking intersection of nature and technology - could you elaborate on how this process evolved from initial concept to final realization?

“The development of Bio Melanin Fibre Fashion began with a scientific inquiry into soil bacteria found in acidic, nutrient-rich environments. Early experiments focused on understanding the metabolic pathways through which these microorganisms naturally generate melanin compounds. This biological insight led to a series of controlled laboratory syntheses, where melanin was extracted, stabilized, and re-engineered into filament structures. Through iterative testing, material refinement, and cross-disciplinary collaboration, the fibre evolved from a fragile laboratory sample into a viable textile component. The final realization integrates biological intelligence with contemporary fashion design, demonstrating how material innovation can open new aesthetic, cultural, and environmental possibilities.”

The melanin pigments in Bio Melanin Fibre Fashion uniquely mirror human skin tones, particularly those of Thai people - what inspired you to explore this profound connection between natural materials and human identity?

“The exploration began with a desire to reconnect material innovation with the intimate narratives of human identity. Melanin, as a biological pigment, embodies cultural memory, ancestry, and the diversity of skin tones found in Thai communities. When I discovered that soil-derived bacteria could produce melanin pigments remarkably close to these natural hues, it became an opportunity to bridge science with lived human experience. The project grew from this realization: that a material born from the earth could resonate with the very tones that define our shared humanity. By aligning bio-based pigments with the aesthetics of the body, the work seeks to honor identity, reclaim cultural nuance, and reaffirm the profound relationship between humans, nature, and the environments that shape us.”

How does Bio Melanin Fibre Fashion's zero-waste production cycle align with your vision of circular fashion design, and what specific challenges did you overcome to ensure environmental harmony throughout the manufacturing process?

“The zero-waste cycle of Bio Melanin Fibre Fashion reflects my commitment to a circular design philosophy in which every stage of production returns value to the environment rather than extracting from it. The microbial synthesis of melanin generates no toxic residues, and all by-products can be reintegrated into the soil, completing a fully regenerative loop. The main challenges involved stabilizing the bio-fibre without synthetic additives and ensuring colorfastness while preserving ecological integrity. Through iterative testing, biodegradable binders, and low-energy processing techniques, we achieved a material system that upholds environmental harmony and demonstrates how circularity can become an intrinsic design principle rather than an afterthought.”

Read the Full Interview

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties
A bio-fibre was synthesized from soil bacteria through a process that holistically considered the full production cycle, ensuring that it generated no waste. The final material contained melanin pigments similar to human skin tones, with hues comparable to those of people from Thailand. The results of this study can be further developed on a commercial scale to support sustainability. The proposed technology has applications in fashion design, where it can enhance individuals’ aesthetics and self-esteem. This research can help advance Thailand’s national development strategy to drive creativity through scientific innovation.
Dimensions & Packaging
A series of bio garment dimensions are approximately 60 x 120 x 100 cm. and ornaments are around 72 x 140 x 23 cm.
Tags
soil; melanin; textile substitute; bio-fibres; sustainable production; Thailand
Production Technology
The use of soil innovation to synthesize textile substitutes and create garments for the future has expanded from the study of the integrity cycle of ‘soil’ and the changes in ‘soil’ properties. The experimental process synthesizes bio-fibre and melanin from Streptomyces, bacteria naturally present in soil, into textile substitutes or bio-cellulose. This is a clean production technology and does not generate residual toxic substances or environment pollution. The result is a substitute material which is friendly to the human body and is biodegradable. The goal of the artist designer is to design and create pilot products and design cycles for circular fashion. The artist designer believes good products are designed to not only respond to basic human needs or facilitate human living but must also be developed, analysed, and designed to understand elements such as designers, producers, operators, and consumers. This builds a circulatory system which conforms to the same goal: recycling throughout the production process so that no waste is created. This requires a return to nature that starts by ensuring that all processes involved in production, such as designing, manufacturing, transportation, or distribution, are complete processes.
Design Challenge
This research, which is in line with the 12th National Economic and Social Development Plan and uses the aforementioned ‘cycle of circular design’, is presented as a pilot product design to illustrate the feasibility of commercial production. These processes can contribute to the overall development and future growth of the creative economy. This is because countries have come to realize that current global situations have dramatically affected humanity’s way of life. Catastrophic global crises reflect choices that contradict scientific advancement; for example, rapidly changing fashion trends have led to excessive waste in the fashion industry, which have upset the ecological balance of nature. Humanity must, therefore, urgently realize and seek ways to restore and conserve the environment. One important duty for designers is to create product design concepts that promote ecological balance through circular fashion design.
Research
In the unprecedented time of natural disasters and global pandemics, people are changing their behaviors. We find a way to live through the crises while building economic strength. One of the ways to our survival is an environment-friendly development and growth, starting from restoring natural resources. To respond to human needs, we need to produce products that are environmentally aware. In designing a product, the aim is to ensure that it is reusable, recyclable, and biodegradable. The whole production process leaves no waste behind. For these reasons, the research project on using soil to create a textile substitute material aims to study and synthesize bio-fibre from good bacteria which is abundant in nature. It has brown pigments which are similar to melanin which determines human skin colours. The pigments can be used in producing garments. This demonstrates the relationship between humans and nature. It also has the potential to be developed for commercial purposes and support creative business growth, and economic stability for small and medium businesses in the future.
Inspiration
This study investigated the use of soil to create a substitute textile material to create fashion garments for the future in Thailand. It aims to maximize the value of natural resources in response to climate change, based on the concept of living in harmony with nature.
Project Duration
The project started in August 2018 in Thailand and finished in April 2021 in Thailand, and was awarded winning and exhibited in many museums and galleries such as Thailand, China, Spain, Romania and USA. It was also published in Academics fields like international conferences and journals for example; Pratt Institute (New York), University of Montreal (Mexico), Falling Wall LAB (Germany) and Ewha Womans University (Korea).
Operation Flow
This study applies a scientific experiment process to discover a new material with remarkable properties that will contribute to both restoring Thailand’s growth foundation and improving the security of its natural resource base. This will help to promote conservation, by limiting the use of the country’s natural capital and managing it to create balance in the environment, which will enhance the quality of life for its citizens. In the future, human garment design will rely on new developments in bioscience technology, which will exhibit the potential integration of aesthetic philosophy and innovation, resulting in the effective design of a textile substitute.
Patents
Patents

1. 1903002625
9 October, 2019

2. 2001006387
6 November, 2020
Image Credits
All images, Photos and Video credits go to Khajornsak Nakpan.

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