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Butterfly Brooch by Sayoko Kitai

Butterfly Brooch by Sayoko Kitai is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2022 A' Design Award in Jewelry Design Competition Category.


IronJewelry· 2022

Butterfly Brooch

by Sayoko Kitai

Client: Sayoko Kitai

A' Design Award Winner in Jewelry Category

28,382

Verified Award Winner

Verify Award Status for #133984

Colors

The Design

About Butterfly Brooch

This hand-crafted wearable art piece can be worn as an accessory or even displayed at home. Using a novel double-sided 3D embroidery technique, the same pattern was simultaneously stitched on both sides of the piece. Its thin, powdery, and shiny wings could be reproduced with single strands and wires, resulting in a lifelike 3D butterfly with form-changeable wings. The wings were attached firmly to pedestals so they will not easily come off. The genuine gold and platinum threads used are so hard that until now, they have never been used in Japan’s embroidery industry.

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award

Butterfly Brooch is an Iron A' Design Award winner, a prestigious recognition granted to good designs that meet the professional and industrial requirements expected from well-designed creations. Iron winners demonstrate great skill, high specialization, expert understanding, and creative capacity of their creators. Butterfly Brooch is expected to be a highly regarded, admired, and cherished creation that is practical and innovative. This Iron A' Design Award-winning design integrates industry best practices and has competent technical characteristics linked with know-how and talent. Butterfly Brooch is respected for its thoroughness and is designed to provide quality of life improvements that help make the world a better place.

Interviews

Design Interview

What is the main principle, idea and inspiration behind your design?

“Airiness” and “free” are the concepts of this design.

What has been your main focus in designing this work? Especially what did you want to achieve?

While using precious materials, I tried to reproduce butterflies’ thin and airy wings.

What are your future plans for this award winning design?

I am really honored that my design won an award in this category of the Award even though mine is an embroidery work. I am committed to making “Art Jewelry” known around the world.

Read the Full Interview

Grand Interview

Your innovative double-sided 3D embroidery technique for the Butterfly Brooch represents a significant breakthrough in jewelry design - could you walk us through the development process that led to this unique methodology?

I taught myself embroidery, and 30 years ago I invented and created the "3D embroidery" technique that is currently gaining attention on social media.I was fascinated by the shape and pattern of a butterfly's wings as it fluttered about, and wanted to create a butterfly that could open and close its wings to move and shape like a real butterfly. I analyzed many butterflies to create a work that was as close as possible to the real thing in terms of the shape, movement, and texture of the wings, and developed a unique double-sided 3D embroidery technique that combines a unique wire technique and double-sided embroidery.The design, which is delicately stitched with a single strand of various types of thread and perfectly reproduces the thinness and shine of a butterfly's wings, radiates beauty like a living butterfly itself. With the unique double-sided 3D embroidery technique, not only the front side when the wings are open, but also the back side when closed is beautifully finished.While the work is completely three-dimensional when viewed from any angle, it is also possible to freely change the shape of the wings. With this technique, I was able to express a realistic and elegant butterfly design that looks as if it were alive.From designs that recreate realistic butterflies such as the Helena Morpho butterfly, to engraved butterflies adorned with natural stones and pearls, to platinum butterflies and real gold butterflies lavishly incorporating diamonds and pearls, we have created a wide variety of designs. Each piece has its own unique brilliance and elegance that captivates the viewer.

The Butterfly Brooch showcases an extraordinary fusion of traditional Japanese Obi materials with contemporary jewelry design - what inspired you to pioneer the use of genuine gold and platinum threads in embroidery, materials previously unused in this industry?

After seeing a news report about an obi sash that used real gold and platinum threads to depict the Kinkaku-ji Temple in weaving, I wanted to make platinum butterflies and real gold butterfly jewelry using these threads, so I began researching how to obtain them.Real gold and platinum threads were specially developed by a thread manufacturer in Nishijin, Kyoto for companies that make obi and uchikake kimonos, and are extremely valuable and not available to the general public. In order to obtain such thread, I was introduced to someone who does business with a thread manufacturer, and after six months of work, I was finally able to get my hands on it.Although the manufacturer told me that "it is intended for weaving, and is too hard to use for embroidery," I succeeded in creating platinum butterflies and real gold butterflies using my own unique techniques.

How did your intensive research into butterfly wing movements and patterns ultimately influence the form-changeable design elements of the Butterfly Brooch, particularly in achieving such lifelike dimensionality?

The four wings, finished using a unique wire technique and double-sided embroidery, are attached to a brooch pin, and the butterfly itself is designed as a brooch. After years of trial and error and experimentation, we developed a unique technique that pursues durability so that the wings would not break when repeatedly opened and closed.By tailoring the brooch pin to the body of the butterfly, we have created a brooch with the shape and movement of a real butterfly, with the wings able to open and close freely. This design recreates an elegant and lively butterfly, as if it were alive.

Read the Full Interview

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties
This hand-crafted jewelry item is a wearable art that may be worn as an accessory or even displayed at home. Using the double-sided 3D embroidery technique with single strand, Sayoko could reproduce its thin and shiny wings, resulting in a lifelike 3D butterfly with form-changeable wings. The genuine gold and platinum threads used for this piece are produced and used in making traditional Japanese sashes, or Obi. They are so hard that until now, they have never been used in the embroidery industry.
Dimensions & Packaging
Product
Width 80mm x Depth 70mm x Height 40mm, Weight: 7g. The piece comes in a box.
Package
Width 217mm x Depth 219mm x Height 40mm, Total Weight (product with box): 420g.
Tags
embroidery, double-sided 3D embroidery, art jewelry, Japanese design, butterfly, brooch
Production Technology
Technique used: Double-Sided 3D Embroidery technique, which is the original technique of the artist. Materials: 24K gold thread, 99.9 percent platinum thread, melee diamonds, platinum collets and prongs, lame yarn, wires, and 18K gold brooch pin.
Design Challenge
First, controlling force was a key to produce this work. The platinum and gold threads used are so hard that they require more force to stitch than conventional ones. Yet, they are likely to break when too much force is applied. Second, stitching the patterns of wings symmetrically by hand was strenuous and required intensely focused and meticulous work. Lastly, intense efforts were made to invent a unique wiring technology to make them firmly attached to the outfit when going out.
Research
Fluttering butterfly wings captivate the eye; their shape and pattern are truly art in motion. Replicating the look and movement of their wings was essential to the success of this project. To do this, Sayoko analyzed a large number of butterflies on the Internet to ensure natural appearance of the work, including the forms, movement, and texture of the wings. After selecting suitable materials and experimenting with stitching methods, she created a new approach that resulted in a lifelike 3D appearance.
Inspiration
This piece was inspired by Morpho Rhetenor Helena Butterflies dancing in the air. Through her encounter with the threads for making Obi, Sayoko was motivated to create lifelike, fully 3D butterflies, using threads that have never been used in the embroidery industry before.
Project Duration
This project started in June 2021 and finished in December 2021 in Chiba, Japan.
Operation Flow
After placing it on your outfit or ring, by slightly pulling it toward its bottom, its body works as a stopper. Then change its form of wings as you like.
Patents
Rittai-Shishyuu Sayoko (1999) Sayoko Kitai
Team Members
Fukumi Tadaishi
Atsushi Inoue
Fumiko Murakami

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